In Sanli Urfa, or just Urfa, there is a hotel restaurant that stands apart from the others. Cevahir is a charming old house turned into a boutique hotel. We did not stay in the hotel but we had lunch in the restaurant of the hotel. When you are numerous the fare is standard. That is to say obergine and mince meat balls kebab and kubbe (the American football shaped fried meat balls stuffed with spices and mince meat) and ayran, the famous yoghurt drink that is a must after the spicy kebabs to take the burn away. Our waiter, a most sympathetic character, did the mirra coffee ritual. I am not going to tell you what mirra is (go and find out for yourself) but I am going to give you a tip, DON'T put the cup down. Why? You are going to find out your selves. When we became friendly with our charming waiter (his name is Mustafa Tas, ask for him) he asked if we wanted anything else. As we are not at all timid we asked for something that we heard but not tasted up to then. The famous Urfa CIG KOFTE. A meat ball, raw, that the chef kneads his herbs and spices into a paste. You eat it with a piece of lettuce. If you are not familiar with cig kofte, ask the chef to make it lightly spicy. We did not and mustafa took our tears as a sign of emotion. But they were not, we burned our mouths and we had a shine in our eyes. The difference make traveling worthwhile. Try everything different and you will have something to tell. Be good.