Bar Amercain — Restaurant in London

Sometimes you spontaneously choose a bar and it turns out to be the best one of the night.

The bar is in the basement of a larger complex, which adds to the prohibition era/art deco/Americana vibe. But not in the kitschy "speakeasy" way cocktail bars are doing it now. There's nothing hidden about it.

Art deco permeates every corner, which is perfect for the US prohibition era. It is an elegant venue, not a seedy boozecan. Obviously, it's meant more for pre and post-theatre goers, but I found the best time to enjoy it was smack in the middle of local showtimes, and past the after-theatre rush when most people have wandered home. It's spacious without feeling sparse, cozy without being claustrophobic. I really do think the stylish decor and lighting have a lot to do with this, cos it is not a small space by any means.

Servers and hosts are amazing. Very welcoming. They bring such a sophisticated air to the venue that so many of these modern "speakeasies" fail to do. I don't know if an actual American boomer is behind this place, but it feels like it. They really captured the feel of 1920-1940s middle/upper-class American cocktail bars, but without being pretentious, quirky, or obnoxious about it. There is no "try hard" vibe here.

I have to give a massive shout out to the one server. A middle-aged couple a table down from us was watching some really annoying YouTube video super loud on their phone which was ruining the carefully curated ambience, and she came over and politely asked them to stop. It was AWESOME. This is a classy joint. If you wanna have a pint and watch YouTube, go find a Wetherspoons. We said our thanks to her. It is rare these days to find a place that has the guts to do that. Hugely appreciated.

The menu is unique as they draw from American (cocktail) history for their signatures, and mix it with European (in this season's case: Harlem and Paris). A lot of the offerings were not my personal cup of tea, and many seemed quite sweet. I tried a cocktail from the pre-prohibition menu which are all recipes existing from that era, but with little tweaks. The Bobby Burns was good, but a bit sweet for my tastes, so I opted to go with a classic standard of a Last Word next. They do all the classics solidly. They provide little nibbles and cucumber water. Also a much appreciated touch.

While the cocktails themselves were not as mind-blowing as I hoped from the menu, they were still very authentic to the time period and loyal to the original recipes which are not always as sophisticated as people assume based on their 21st century riffs. Clearly, there is a lot of effort put into their menu, and the bartenders are fast, efficient, and skilled. The staff here really do make a difference and the...

The thing about London is that it’s always ready with another surprise just when you think you’ve got everything figured out. Take Piccadilly Circus, for example, which has long been a bastion of tourist traps and scantily dressed students in search of cheap shots. I had pretty much abandoned the idea of ever recommending a bar there until I was introduced to Bar Americain this weekend. It’s an absolutely fantastic old school type of bar hidden away under Brassiere Zedel. The brassiere is fairly small and simple (although delicious), but as you go down the stairs at the back – it’s a whole new world.

Despite being underground, Bar Americain boats lofty vaulted ceilings which give an incredible feeling of space. It strangely also helps keep the noise down to a more muted buzz which means you can easily converse with a group without risking your voice. The bar takes advantage of the extra space to display the impressive breadth and depth of their liquor selection, my eye naturally being drawn to the range of whiskies which includes such rarities as a Van Winkle 12 year old.

I snuck in just in time to sample one of the most classic cocktails of all – the Old Fashioned. It’s my usual test of an old school cocktail bar (much like Pad Thai at a Thai restaurant) as it’s a simple drink but requires a degree of skill and finesse to balance perfectly. Bar Americain boasts such attributes in spades as it was one of the best versions I’ve ever tasted with the bite of the bourbon tempered by just a hint of sweetness and a refreshing citrus bouquet. It epitomises the term “short drink” but it packs a punch and is one to sip slowly and savour.

Other things to note: It’s a posh place but doesn’t bother too much with a dress code. I’d suggest avoiding shorts and sandals (though when would you wear such things here?) but I had no problem with jeans and a backpack which was a pleasant surprise (I’m looking at you Archer St). Cocktails are £9-10 so on the higher end but not in the absurd region. Oh, and when going to the toilettes make sure to turn right after passing under the massive sign and not walk straight ahead. Those are the lifts, not...

Just because it's art doesn't mean that it's ok - ignorance is bliss and will spread like wild fire if you let it.

My dining experience at Zedel was actually quite nice and whilst I'm always an admirer of how spaces can stay true to thier architectual heritage and decor Zedel's Américan Bar was quite eye opening, sadly not in a good way. At first you are pleasanty escorted in the seemingly relaxed, plush environment and served by the attentative waiters and waitresses with quite delicious cocktails. Its not until you yourself settle down and take in the surroundings fully that you then realise the artwork covering every single wall in the dimly lit bar. The work appears to be by the Parisian artist Paul Colin who is known typically for his poster art, and more particularly for posters promoting a show called 'Revue Nègre' starring Josephine Baker, in the mid 1920s. Now whilst he is said to have appreciated black culture when you look at some of his artwork displayed in the room, yes some appear to look "ok" but in most other images his charachter usage is actually something that I find offensive. He uses a "black face" style of illustration where black men in particular are shown as caricatures with big pink or in some cases white solid oval lip shapes. It's a racial undertone, an ignorant type of representation and one that didn't have to be used. If Zedel were proud to showcase his work freely, it's a wonder as to why they chose to almost "hide" these pieces in the dimly lit bar and didn't choose to introduce some of them, using that styling near the main entrance of the restaurant. I'm glad that they didn't do that and am equally saddened by the fact that they seem as if nothing is wrong with those images altogether.

For me a great dining experience isn't just about the food it's about the environment too and if I don't feel comfortable in a restaurant because of it, it's not going to be a place that I'll be recommending at all. As I mentioned before, ignorance is bliss and will spread like wild fire...