Hickory by Kent Rathbun — Restaurant in Grapevine

Mediocre burger, bad fries

The burgers at Hickory by Kent Rathbun were a masterclass in mediocrity, lacking any hint of the innovation or flavor one might expect from such a renowned establishment. The meat was cooked to a uniform gray, devoid of juiciness or the charred exterior that signifies a perfectly grilled patty. Accompanying the lackluster burgers were fries that managed to be both soggy and overly crisp, as if unsure whether to commit to undercooked or overdone. This disappointing duo transformed what should have been a comforting classic into a forgettable meal, casting a shadow over the reputation of Hickory by Kent Rathbun.

Bed Beer

I've always believed that even the most commonplace beers could offer a refreshing moment of pleasure, a testament to simple delights. However, my recent encounter with Modelo was a stark reminder that not all brews are created equal, and some can significantly miss the mark.

From the outset, Modelo seemed promising with its clear, golden hue and the promise of a crisp, refreshing taste. Yet, the first sip was a journey into the depths of blandness. The flavor was so underwhelming it almost felt as though I was drinking a shadow of a beer—there in form but utterly lacking in substance or character.

The body of the beer was as thin as water, with none of the rich textures or nuances that can elevate a beer from mere beverage to an experience. It was as if all potential complexity had been stripped away, leaving behind a drink that was forgettable at best.

Even more disappointing was the aftertaste, or rather, the lack thereof. Good beers leave a lingering note, a final reminder of the journey your palate just undertook. Modelo, however, exited as quietly as it arrived, leaving no trace behind but a vague sense of dissatisfaction.

In a world where there are so many vibrant, flavorful beers to explore, Modelo felt like a step back into a realm of mediocrity. It was a reminder that not all that glitters is gold, and not all beers, despite their popularity or widespread availability, are worth your time. This was not just a drink but a lesson in disappointment.

Bad Old Fashion

After hearing a mix of opinions, I decided to give this whiskey a try, hoping it might defy my low expectations. Unfortunately, it met them instead. Right from the opening, the aroma was underwhelming, lacking the depth and complexity I've come to appreciate in finer whiskeys. The first sip confirmed my suspicions. The flavor profile was as shallow as a puddle in the Sahara, with a harshness that spoke more of inexperience and haste in distillation than of bold character or craftsmanship.

The body of the whiskey was thin, lacking the rich, velvety texture that makes you want to savor each sip. Instead, it rushed past the palate as if in a hurry to disappoint, leaving behind an aftertaste that was at best forgettable and at worst, unpleasantly lingering.

I had hoped for at least a redeeming note or two in the finish, a surprise twist in the plot, but it was not to be. The finish was as uninspired as the rest, fading quickly and leaving behind a vague sense of regret for the experience and the cost.

In a market that offers so many truly remarkable options, this whiskey does not stand out for any right reasons. It's a stark reminder that not all spirits are created equal, and in this case, you're better off leaving this bottle on the shelf and investing your...

Let's be honest. My expectations for airport food are low. But if you are going to market something as "chef so n so's" or "bbq they smoke on site", in the state of Texas, you need to bring your A game.

Despite ordering the fattier end of the brisket, it was extremely dry except for the actual ribbon of fat running length wise on each slice.

As for flavor ? Bland is the only word. I had to SALT and SAUCE my brisket. Salt & sauce it! In TX if you cant make a proper dry rub brisket that doesnt need sauce, you shouldnt be in the brisket game. If you are going to smoke a brisket salt and pepper are a MUST. It tasted like it had very little of either, if any at all. My very 1st brisket I ever smoked came out more flavorful & tender, and I am not a chef.

The dryness is likely from being late evening and probably sitting under a heat lamp rather than being kept in foil (or better yet butcher paper!) in a steam bath tray to keep it warm without drying it out. But the flavor was unforgivable.

The best part was the bacon mac n cheese, and even that was run of the mill. No, I take it back. The best part was the Buffalo Trace on the rocks, because at least that is consistent and I got what I expected.

The food was bland, and only worth its $18 price for 3 slices and a small serving of mac n cheese because everything but fast food chains is around $20 or higher for an entree at an airport. Even going in with low expectations for "airport food", I was disappointed. I wouldnt want my name on a restaurant serving this if I were Mr. Rathbun, but I'm sure as long as the $$ comes in he doesnt much care.

I sincerely hope the real Hickory establishment outside the airport sets a better standard than this. I'd be ashamed to serve brisket like this in my own house in Texas, let alone in a restaurant, unless that restaurant's name rhymes with Phil Diller's.

Atmosphere is 1 star because if youre going to be a sit-down restaurant, even at an airport, you should feel like one. Even Pappasito's has better atmosphere. Pappadeaux really sets the atmosphere bar higher at this airport even if their seafood menu is lacking (to be expected).

I'll be quite honest. Rudy's, despite being a chain AND having their quality fall off a cliff over the last 10 years, is still better than this particular batch of bbq at Hickory. RUDY'S!! You know, the one attached to a gas station.

My server was pleasant and I dont fault her at all. But the more I think about it the more disappointed I am with the shoe leather brisket I just finished chewing, doused in BBQ sauce and salt (just to make it tolerable).

I was originally going to try the bread pudding too, but based on the entree & side I half expect some store-bought wonderbread (or the lunch crowd's left over toast) soaked in skim milk and cooked under a heat lamp. No thanks.

I only chose 2 stars because 1 star reviews tend to be ignored or written off. It really is a one star eatery at best. Go someplace else in DFW if you have any respect for Texas brisket. I have no earthly idea how any reviews here are 4 or 5 stars. Especially the one that said it...

Sit-Down Prices, Nearly edible Half-Portions, and a Full serving of Culinary disappointment.

We stopped at Hickory Grub #3003 in Terminal B at DFW, hoping for a sit-down breakfast after an early flight. What we got instead felt less like a meal and more like a culinary prank.

The Food

Scrambled egg shards scattered thinly across a beat up tin cafeteria tray, like fallout from a breakfast explosion

The menu promised sausage. What arrived was half a sausage, a betrayal served with a smile

Hash browns so gluey and salty they tasted like someone took a blowtorch to lumpy elementary school paste with rejected and shredded tater tots

“Toast” that was just plain bread tossed on the grill, pretending it had ever seen a toaster

The Drinks

My wife had to explain hot tea like it was a new invention. The server’s first suggestion? Iced tea, warmed up

I gave a TED Talk on decaf vs regular coffee. The server said she’d check, but instead brought a lukewarm, thimble-sized cup without saying if it was decaf or not. I’ll find out later based on how many trips I make to the restroom mid-flight

Creamers made an appearance, sugar and sweeteners vanished into thin air

The Experience

$36.50 for two trays of regret and one sad cup of coffee made me contemplate my life choices

Everything served on a beat up tin cafeteria tray with parchment, no spoon, turning the meal into a scavenger hunt for egg shards

We left hungry enough to go straight to Starbucks for drinks that didn’t require a lecture

Verdict Hickory Grub charges sit-down prices for a suboptimal fast-food experience. The only thing they deliver consistently is disappointment. Next time, I’ll happily take McDonald’s hash browns in a paper bag and find a quiet corner. Recommend only to sworn enemies, preferably those who enjoy betrayal reheated on a grill and finished with the...