Call it the tyranny of abundance. Inundated as it is with quality Mexican eateries of various stripes, an establishment really has to outdo itself to stand out around here. El Camino Real has a lot going for it – solid food and reasonable prices – but it doesn’t do enough to gain separation from the competition.

Housed in an easily overlooked shopping strip, El Camino Real is small both inside and out: maybe eight tables and four booths in total. The casual cantina look won’t win style points, but it is comfortable and inviting. That, plus fast and friendly service, lets you forget the meagerness of the surroundings.

Fittingly for a place that translates to “The Royal Way,” El Camino Real wears its authenticity on its sleeve. While the familiar burritos, enchiladas, and fajitas fill the menu, you will also find lengua (beef tongue), mole, and other less Americanized offerings here. A recent Cutthroat Kitchen episode inspired a fish taco craving, so I decided to give them – and the al pastor (marinated pork) and chorizo – a try. The tacos came well-dressed with radish, cilantro, and lime. Of the three varieties sampled, the chorizo was far and away the tastiest: it offered a spicy, crumbly bite throughout. The tilapia in the fish taco was moist and adequately seasoned, but doesn’t reach the standard set by Los Gordos. The pastor had the right flavor profile (hint of pineapple) but was disappointingly dry.

Pricing here is wallet-friendly. Lunch specials run under $6, and many dinner entrees clock south of $10. Tacos are $1.50 each (more for fish or shrimp) regularly and are only a buck on Tuesdays. Whether you go for a combination or eat a la carte, it is easy to sample a lot here for relatively little green.

Were El Camino Real amid a less crowded field, it would likely be a local favorite. But it lacks the menu depth of El Kiosco, the inspiration of Los Gordos, and the taco wizardry of El Azteca or Crafted. As an also-ran, however, it is certainly better than most.