This was our first shrine. As an architect it's critical to understand that we are creative artisans patronized by those in power or with the financial backing to create the impressions of our culture. Buildings like this show us that history is written by the winners. But in this case after the abandonment of the old ways, this property was given back to the people as a national park. Not only to show that a new inclusive government was beneficial to all, but also a way of preserving a national heritage for an inhabited sculpture once with access only for the wealthy ruling class. The artisans of their time created this architecture with the intent to out live their proprietors. They may not have known that the end of their era would not bring about the demise of these national treasures, but impressed by the will of the people, they were respected and saved. Unlike the monuments of Egypt, which at the change of a Pharaoh's reign, the previous rulers deity artistic references were scratched away, pillaged and destroyed, the Japanese culture grew based on a cultural respect, something the west has long abandoned in exchange for selfishness and immediate gratification and personal ego as most western design architects exhibit. This is why Japanese Craft is so astonishing. They care little for their own labor, and more for what their wares can do to build up the collective value and beauty of their culture. It's also why for me as an American architect, I had to see Japan for myself. My appreciation and respect for their culture has greatly increased with the visit to my first Japanese shrine. Can't wait to see Kyoto, for their craft is surely the pinnacle of this...
Read moreUeno Toshogu Shrine is a beautifully preserved Edo-period shrine that honors Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate. Unlike the grand Nikko Toshogu where Ieyasu himself is buried, this shrine serves as a Tokyo tribute and resting place for many other members of the Tokugawa family. The historical weight of the place can be felt as soon as you pass through the impressive torii gate and approach the richly decorated main hall.
The shrine’s architecture is stunning—adorned with intricate gold leaf and carvings that have survived fires, earthquakes, and war thanks to its designation as an Important Cultural Property. The long stone lantern avenue leading to the main shrine is particularly atmospheric, especially in the early morning or at dusk.
Though smaller than Nikko, Ueno Toshogu carries a quiet dignity and a deep sense of history. It’s a fascinating place for anyone interested in the Tokugawa legacy or Edo culture, offering a peaceful contrast to the lively surroundings...
Read moreAbout a 10 minute walk from JR Ueno Station. Before reaching the shrine, you first pass through the stone lantern avenue, where rows of stone lanterns stand in order, creating a solemn and dignified atmosphere. At the end lies Ueno Toshogu Shrine. Dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu and rebuilt by Tokugawa Iemitsu, the shrine has stood for over 370 years, remarkably preserved, and is recognized as an important cultural heritage site.
The golden and resplendent Toshogu features exquisite carvings, gold leaf decorations, and ornate details. Under the play of light and shadow, it appears especially dazzling and is acclaimed as a representative work of Edo period ornate architecture.
Beside it stands a more modern building, the Shinsatsu Office, where various protective charms and votive plaques are sold. Visitors who wish to enter the shrine’s inner hall can also purchase an admission...
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