BABA DOOl — Hotel in Elephantine Island

There is no reason to stay elsewhere in Elephantine Island. BABA DOOL is a Nubian family guesthouse on the west side of the island with all modern conveniences in modest rooms that open on sandy or paved terraces. This is the more relaxed side with views on the calm Nile with its stoic rock islands, elegant feluccas, tour boats, the tombs of the Nobles, the botanical Gardens (Kitchener Island). Its location is the perfect perch from which to set out while in Aswan.

The Nubian family, comprised of Rahgda, Rawia, Shehab, little Zinab is warm, sincere, generous and efficient. The home cooked meals -breakfast, lunch, dinner- were sublime! In particular I was drawn in by Rawia’s falafel, hibiscus infusion hot and cold and Raghba fresh mango juice. Alternately, Raghba’s meals of grilled chicken or fish, vegetable tagines, tahini and rice, fresh flat bread and a light orzo soup (yes this is still one meal) is more than enough to keep you on you day trip or adventures in Aswan or the region.BABA DOOL will also prepare you a picnic lunch if your design or theirs.

So Elephantine is an island, I wish I had known BABA DOOL had a boat available to pick us up from the Aswan dock. Shehab’s boat is available for trips anywhere below the low dam and where the feluccas or large tour boats cannot go. This is his river he knows the stories and where things are: the passes, the quiet spots, the birds, the photo ops, he also knows where to the best eastern cakes and turkish coffee. He will walk you to the best weaver on Elephantine take you by boat and wait or return to pick you up after a climb up the tomb of the nobles or a walk into the desert to the Monastery of Anba Hatre (St Simeon) or textile shopping on Gharb Sohail. If we only had more time Shehab mentioned so many possibilities to explore on the Nile and the other islands, accessible via boat with this knowledgeable young man.

On my return to Aswan, I will be coming home by returning...

Baba Dool is a lovely, colourful, traditional guesthouse at the quiet side of the island. The rooms and terrasses offer a great view of the Nile and Kitchener's Island. The latter is easily accessible by boat (6-8 minute trip), which you can easily arrange from the neighboring docks.

The rooms are clean, cool, cozy, yet somewhat Spartan. Baba Dool's four tiered balconies and terrasses ensure that there you can sit wherever you prefer however, without having to share the space with other guests. Great for introverts such as myself ;)

A pleasant breeze flow from the Nile and there is plenty of shade to ward off Aten and Amon. If you are brave enough, you can easily step into the Nile and go for a swim; the current isn't that strong near the edges and experienced swimmers might even be able to cross to Kitchener's Island.

The Landlady is very nice and fluent in both French and English. She is also an amazing cook, so do ask about her breakfast and dinner options. You won't be disappointed!

The island's children are friendly and inquisitive and often speak a little English, but they know not to thread onto the guesthouse grounds. Adult locals are friendly as well and won't hassle tourists. Cats keep their distance, but appear healthy and well fed.

The cheapest available shop is right next to the docks, which is a 5-6 minute walk through the island's winding streets and alleyways. Surprisingly the goods cost less than on the mainland, especially bottled water and softdrinks. The offer varies from time of day, so don't expect everything to be stocked all the time. Bread, water and small amenities are aplenty.

I heartily recommend spending a few days at Baba Dool to experience Nubian hospitality in a clean and quiet...

I really wanted to give this place more stars! In a way it is a unique, special place, situated in awesome surroundings. At first sight it looks great. However, the more time you spend there, the more you realise how poorly maintained it is.

The line between offering an authentic experience and not being bothered with hygiene and general housekeeping is somehow blurred here. There was a cigarette end on the floor in my room, the mirror was incredibly dusty. No handwash or toilet paper for days, no clean top sheet or towel (unless I explicitly asked), no drink for breakfast unless again, I ask... it's tiring when you have to ask for basics. Especially so when something comes in the way.

The Movenpick ferry is 24/7, free and quite handy to get to the other bank.

It's a bit inconvenient that there's no staff at the property overnight and no entry system. If you happen to be back at Baba Dool after 11pm (as I did once), you may find yourself locked outside. I was lucky to be able to call them to come and open the door for me because they live somewhere else in the village.

I had booked a double room but when I arrived it turned out that they had given my room to somebody else and all they could offer is a single room slightly bigger than the size of my bed... with no windows. It was alright... kind of... but it was not even acknowledged.

Breakfast was quite poor. The only nice thing was the omelette, the rest was stale at best. No fruit or fruit juice. Again, hygiene was not up to par.

All of the above issues are easily fixable. I would definitely visit again if I knew that those flaws were resolved. Hope this is taken as constructive,...