Born In Brunswick — Restaurant in Hobart

Born in Brunswick is a striking space. While obviously taking inspiration from Melbourne’s café scene, this eye-catching North Hobart café would look equally at home in Sydney. While your eye is caught by the statement modern antler light hanging in a shaft of natural light, once seated your field of vision expands to take in the elegant simplicity of polished concrete floors and padded grey fabric banquettes teamed with pale wooden counters, wall panels and furniture boasting lovely Scandinavian-inspired curves.

The neutral tones are warmed up externally with bird life murals and internally with dripping fronds of exotic plant life. After writing review after review last year noting Sydney’s fake plant décor obsession in cafes across town, I’m delighted to see such beautiful living plants thriving inside this light-filled space. “The plants take quite a bit of maintenance but [are] so worth it,” explained Con Vailas. Vailas, whose face might be familiar from Masterchef, is a native Tasmanian, who returned to the state to open this eatery in late 2016.

After the departure of the original head chef, Josh Retzer, to Old Wharf Restaurant, Born in Brunswick’s kitchen has been placed in the young hands of Brianna Crowley. Crowley, who is just 23, started with this business as an apprentice, though if her Butter Poached Crab and Curry Scramble ($27) is anything to go by, she’s a young gun chef well worth keeping an eye on.

Served on a high-rise, airy crumpet (actually the best crumpet I’ve eaten in a café), Crowley's scrambled eggs are flavoured with a from-scratch curry made using fresh, aromatic spices and a decent hit of chilli. The tumbling eggs are scattered with moist flakes of tasty, butter-poached crab under a garland of herbs, with scattered puffed grains adding some texture. It all adds up to an incredibly tasty, well-conceived and original dish I’d love to eat again.

Plant life and food really do go hand in hand, as you’ll see from the fragrant herbs topping the Potato and Pecorino Hash ($23). Stacked high on a puddle of charred eggplant cream, you’ll find the crisp-crumbed hash and a fried egg slathered with fermented tomato and corn salsa then scattered with seeds.

The complex plating takes a bit of time, as you can watch at the very open, low pass. As the large-ish space filled up around us, I watched the three tattooed chefs skillfully dance around each other to complete their pretty plates faster than service staff could take them away.

While there’s a definite focus on buying local, small-farm produce evident across the menu, the coffee is roasted by Industry Beans in Melbourne. It’s good in a Latte ($4) but liking coffee darker and throatier, I enjoy it more in my dining companion’s strong Flat White ($4).

This was definitely the best breakfast I ate during my week-long visit...

On a recent visit to Hobart I did a google search of venues that offer breakfast and Born in Brunswick rated really high on reviews. Located in trendy North Hobart we arrived around 10am on a Saturday morning and the place was pumping. Really busy but a really nice friendly vibe.

BIB is walk in only and due to the popularity of the venue we had to wait for a table. The super friendly staff made us feel very welcome and constantly updated us on when a table would be available. We only waited around 10min before being seated.

The venues decor is fresh and clean with an open kitchen where you can see your meal being prepared by the very busy chefs. The only downside is the polished concrete floors do make for a louder environment when the dining room is full.

The table service is prompt and friendly and drinks and food are delivered promptly.

I started the meal with a Hairy Mary, BIB’s version of a Bloody Mary. Served over ice this was made just the way I like it with plenty of spice and beautiful fresh tomato juice! It packed a fantastic punch and isn’t for the faint hearted!

We ordered the baked eggs, orange and poppy seed pancakes and fruit bread. With the kitchen right in front I’m of us it was nice to see the meals coming together all cooked fresh and to order.

I had the baked eggs and it was a beautifully constructed tomato and red pepper based sauce with beans and egg baked in the dish and topped with whipped ricotta. The ricotta really made this dish ensuing that every mouthful was silky; the fat of the cheese perfectly cut through the acid of the tomato’s and peppers.

The orange and poppyseed hotcakes both looked amazing and tasted even better. Unlike your usual hotcakes drowning in sickly syrup these had a delicate and fluffy citric cake topped with a tart orange curd. To bring the sweetness factor a quenelle of condensed coconut ice-cream and light floss make for a marriage of flavours made in heaven! The addition of fresh fruit and edible flowers made this dish both delicious and beautifully presented.

The last in our group opted for the simple fruit toast served with jam. A basic meal but made with artisan fruit sourdough and home style jam this was also lovely.

The coffees speak for themselves. Made with scientific precision and skill and served at just the right temperature they did not disappoint.

Price point is good at BIB especially for full table service and high end fare.

If you are in Hobart and don’t check this place out you are missing out!! Go...

Probably one of the worst examples of customer service I’ve ever seen, especially at a place where so many diners appear to be of the pretentious variety.

I ordered the potato pecorino hash and fermented tomato and corn salsa and charred eggplant cream and fried egg and fragrant herbs with a chai latte.

My hash was luke warm, it looked better then it tasted. Overall, the meal was decent, but not to my liking.

My partner ordered the cured wallaby and garlic chive scramble and horseradish pesto and tomato and pepperberry relish and sourdough and iced chocolate with soya milk.

Although he preferred my dish, he did find that the cured Wallaby tasted a lot like Prosciutto.

What really got under my skin:

Both our drinks came out without spoons. This was fine, we just requested some.

An hour had gone by from when our food had arrived, and not one person had come over and asked if we’re right for drinks. I was left sipping table water. A waitress finally asked if we’d like anything else, but only while clearing the table.

The table to the right of us were presented with a bill even though they were still drinking their coffees. It was made clear to the table that others were waiting, to which the table replied by immediately standing up and making their way out.

The table to the left of us, had barely finished their meal before they were also given a “move along”. They also responded by immediately standing up and making their way out.

Looking around where the chefs were, I noticed there were a lot of plates waiting (with cooked food) to be served, but no heat lamps to maintain temperature.

Suggestions:

I don’t know where in the world getting a “move along” direction (from waiting staff) is a pleasant experience.

Maybe this place should focus on catching up with there orders instead of focusing so hard on decorating the plate so much. But then again, maybe the decorations are half the attraction...