Macleay St Bistro — Restaurant in Sydney

Macleay Street Bistro has something most Sydney restaurants will never achieve – thirty-five years of history. While that time period has seen many changes to both the restaurant – which received its current set of owners, Phillip Fikkers and Mark Campbell, in 2013 – and the surrounding area, the French bistro theme has remained a constant.

Despite it ostensibly being well into spring, Macleay Street Bistro has taken a slow journey meander out of winter. Accentuated by some classics from across their thirty-five years, I found them still serving a Late Winter menu deep into October. After two weeks of non-stop rain, it seemed a prescient choice by Chef Marco Costa, who joined the Macleay Street Bistro team about a year ago.

Luckily for my visit, a pocket of sun gave us our first al fresco dining opportunity of the season. We seized upon it and took our opening French Martini ($18) - Chambord, pineapple and vodka garnished with fresh pineapple – outdoors. Well-decorated Toasted Baguette with French Onion Crème ($4) help get our palates in the mood for comforting retro flavours; they’re like eating French onion soup on toast. As we move onto the 2013 Vincent Girardin Chardonnay ($82/glass) – a chardonnay with enough acidity to cut through that classic French richness - we’re entertained by the passing Potts Point parade.

Times have certainly changed from the smoke-drenched days the dining room's photos conjure. Macleay Street is now a steady stream of cultured retirees who have moved into the gentrified suburb to be within walking distance of all the institutions - the Art Gallery of NSW, the Australian Museum and the Sydney Opera House. Stefano Conti, himself a ten year veteran on the restaurant floor, greets half of them by name.

The French Onion Soufflé ($22) maintains good height despite being twice-baked, and eats better than I remember it. Natural sweetness from the onions juxtaposes well against Comte cheese and a little sourdough roll you can slather with truffle butter.

With a cherry wood smoke-filled glass cloche reveal, the Salmon Tartare ($24) has both fanfare and flavour. There’s dill, lime caviar, popping salmon roe and smokiness to interest the palate, as well as more than enough salty crackers upon which to smear this generously proportioned entrée. (I really hate getting too few.)

As the light fades, our waiter Páidi Murphy – himself a newcomer to this team - regales us with a story of a customer who demanded to book a certain table. With some difficulty in the small floor space, the correct table was arranged. When the customer arrived, they produced a photo of themselves as a baby lying on that very window banquette.

It illustrates the importance of history, and makes the perfect segue into a classic Steak Frites ($38). Today it's served on the bone as a 350-gram tasty beef cutlet, against rocket and pear salad, shoestring fries, assorted mustards and optional Anchovy Butter ($3). It’s technically impossible to fault – the pillowy soft steak has been rested beautifully, the salad is crisp and well seasoned, the Dijon mustard vaporous and enlivening, the chips crisp and oil-free. It’s the best steak frites I can ever remember eating.

The technical expertise continues unabated into an Organic Grass Fed Eye Fillet with Parsley and Sauce Poivre 250g ($50) cooked to a perfect, well-rested medium rare. We take ours with a not-too-wicked whirl of Pomme Puree ($12) that avoids sinking into like a butter-soaked pat, and Buttered Green Beans with Shallots ($10). Once again, the cooking and seasoning is perfect, with crunchy flakes of sea salt contrasting against the juiciest, crisp, green beans in town.

Two courses was more than enough to see me leave on a high. Macleay Street Bistro allows you to step back in time to when French was the best thing in town, and here,...

Macleay Street Bistro is a Sydney dining institution that has been in Potts Point serving classic French Cuisine for over 4 decades. We have been multiple times and find this restaurant to be one that maintains consistency and, now with its new venue, you could even say that, just like a fine wine, it just gets better with age. The new venue is just down the road and it is much bigger, has stunning maroon, green and brass interiors. The ambience feels sophisticated and everything about it oozes class. The service at this restaurant is extraordinarily professional, whilst still personable, staff showing a depth of experience and knowledge which shows in leaps and bounds.

Chef Callum Brewin has put together a classic French menu using fresh and locally sourced ingredients and there’s many options, all of which are we’d happily order.

As you peruse the menu, start with a refreshing cocktail such as the beautiful French martini – chambord, vodka and pineapple juice. Or sample a great glass of wine from their extensive list and even take a recommendation from the Sommelier. It was champagne for me, perfect accompaniment to French food.

Food wise we had to get one of our favourites, the twice baked French onion soufflé with truffle butter. Light and fluffy, sitting in a pool of cheesy goodness, you most certainly need to try this. The sweet onion and cheese of that twice bake soufflé were truly magnifique. It comes with some warm bread, a French Baguette from, accompanied with some garlic butter.

For the mains, whilst the steak frites is a popular choice, this time we went for something different; the duck. It is a pan rendered fillet of duck breast with peaches, shallots and Armagnac sauce. A stunning fish, cooked perfectly and it all works so well together.

We also opted for their salmon. This is a nice and light option with courgettes, asparagus and a pea puree. Again another quality dish. We thought all meals here are so generous on size and of high quality.

With this, we had a side salad; the mixed leaves with rouge and golden beetroots, with marinated goats cheese and candied walnuts. It was great alongside the mains, but buttered greens, French fries or pommes puree if that’s more your style.

You can’t leave without a French dessert. Whether it be Crème Brûlée or profiteroles or crepes Suzette, you will be impressed. But we recommend a try of their chocolate fondant. A nice and moist dark chocolate cake that simply oozes white chocolate when cut open. Served with a raspberry sorbet for balance, this is just perfect.

Here you receive an authentic French Bistro experience, make sure you bring your appetite and enjoy the experience with some incredible food and service....

We Sydney-siders are a lucky bunch, living amongst a cornucopia of culinary delights that will take your tastebuds on a journey around the world. When you consider the competition for our appetites and dining dollar, it’s no mean feat for a restaurant to stay in business. So it’s all the more remarkable that iconic Sydney dining institution Macleay St Bistro is celebrating 35 years.

I can fully appreciate why after recently re-discovering this Sydney gem.

There are insufficient superlatives to describe our dining experience; Service is genuine, gracious and gregarious, and the food is exceptional, showcasing quality produce, and all beautifully cooked and presented.

There is an extensive menu that can make deciding what to order difficult; the easy option would be to choose the 35 year celebratory degustation and enjoy a wonderfully curated 6 course menu featuring refined classics such as steak tartare, twice baked French onion soufflé, and creme brûlée. The “Classics menu” is juxtaposed against a seasonal specials menu offering big, hearty French fare like Boeuf Bourguignon and steamed black mussels with white wine.

Otherwise, ask for your waiter’s recommendation; Páidí skilfully guided us through the menu and we arrived at: French Sonoma baguette with Pepe Saya butter Pan seared scallops with cauliflower purée & roasted hazelnuts Twice baked French onion soufflé with truffle butter & sourdough roll Cootamundra grass fed lamb loin with heirloom carrots, pomme mousseline & pea purée Pan rendered fillet of duck breast with preserved peaches, eschallots & Armagnac jus Boeuf Bourguignon avec Purée de Pomme de Terre - Classic Beef Burgundy With Pomme Purée Sides of buttered green beans, french fries and pomme purée Crepes Suzette Flambee With Grand Marnier Passionfruit Soufflé With Coconut Sorbet Classic Macleay St. Bistro Creme Brûlée House Made Chocolate Truffles

It’s hard to pick highlights from a stellar meal where every mouthful is sublime; highly memorable dishes were the rich and decadent twice baked french onion soufflé. It combines the classic soufflé with the taste of a french onion soup which had a richness of flavour from something made with love. The scallops were plump and juicy and served with a creamy purée and crunchy hazelnuts. The beef burgundy was tres magnifique! It was comfort food presented beautifully and had the familiar flavours you would associate with this dish but even better. With a thyme infused red wine sauce, it was the perfect winter meal.

Dining at Macleay St Bistro was like being reacquainted with an old friend; you know, that person you don’t ever see enough of but always have a...