There is just something about Stenhus restaurant, which is nestled cozily under the fantastic Hotel Schlossle. Maybe it’s because I am a historian, but I think it’s something more universal—the air just feels calmer down there. I am a busy lady, and I usually am juggling four or five expansive projects at any given time: I have a lot of difficulty calming down and being in the moment. But something—something I can’t quite define was just different at Stenhus restaurant than any place I have eaten before ever. There was an invitingness to the roaring fire, a warmth to the stone walls, which have seen so much history (800 years of it! I can’t get over that), and a reassuring look to the mirrored table tops and credenza-fronts which reflected and expanded all of this, stabilizing the whole into the very picture of hospitality, of hearth, home. The atmosphere was welcoming but refined, quiet, but not hushed. All in all, I felt both at home, like I belonged, and yet also surrounded by luxury—waiters who knew their wine and menu and wore white gloves as they replaced my silverware or lit the candles adorning the table. The menu itself was off the charts. Chef Timofei Monahhov crafted classic dishes and local favorites, adapted to modern palates. I really appreciated that things were adapted to the chef’s tastes, but things weren’t “overly conceptualized,” as can happen in modern haute cuisine. Like the ambiance, things were delightful and never overdone. I had the venison, which was perfectly cooked alongside an oyster mushroom grilled and served in a way I had never envisioned mushroom could be served. The appetizer of house made breads paved the way for this and many other amazing courses. My lobster bisque was a performance in and of itself, poured over the solid ingredients in a way that piqued interest and tastebuds. As for dessert--I have been dreaming of the “bird milk cream” dessert served in a chocolate sphere since I first tasted it—and then had some of my friend’s! I have eaten in a lot of fine dining restaurants, and this one stands out in my memory as truly one of the best dining experiences I...
Read moreIn the opus of fine dining, every element plays a vital note, building towards a crescendo of gastronomic delight. At Stenhus, the anticipation began on a high octave, drawing me into the intricate composition of its tasting menu, harmonized with carefully selected wines.
The overture, comprising the initial courses, sang a melodious tune of culinary mastery, invoking a rhapsody of flavors and sensations. Yet, as the beef course took center stage, it struck a discordant chord. Its overcooked and toughened texture was reminiscent of a missed beat in an otherwise captivating symphony.
The ambient backdrop, pivotal to this orchestration, proved jarringly out of tune. What could have been a refined ensemble of sounds was, instead, a cacophony of popular hits awkwardly reimagined in bossa nova and smooth jazz. The attempt, although novel, lacked the sophistication and grace befitting such an illustrious establishment.
Amidst these dissonant notes, the maestro of the evening, our host, stood out. His attentive and professional demeanor gracefully conducted our experience, guiding us with finesse and poise.
When the veal, poised as the penultimate act, made its entrance, my palate was still overshadowed by the beef’s misstep, compelling a melancholic adagio retreat from the culinary stage. The dessert, though elegantly presented, awaited its audience in vain.
The wine pairing, envisioned as a melodious accompaniment, was more a shrill piccolo than a rich cello, echoing more of vinegar’s sharpness than the anticipated mellifluous undertones.
In closing, the Stenhus performance was a blend of enchanting high notes and jarring dissonances. The service, particularly from our host, served as the evening’s saving grace, a virtuoso amidst a chorus of...
Read moreWe asked for the restaurant at the hotel lobby. The restaurant is downstairs. We were asked to check the menu before going in. We mentioned we already saw it online and we knew what we wanted. The employee at the reception insisted we look at it (maybe to make sure we saw the prices in advance???). He then walked us and sat us almost at the end of the room, which we found strange as the restaurant was empty. He was very professional and attentive. Even offered to take our coats and hang them by the entrance. Once seated we were greeted by a server. She asked if we wanted gas or still water and showed us the wine menu. We ordered wine and it took a while for us to see her again. When she returned we asked some questions about the menu which she answered in a simple manner. We orders the borscht and entrees. Most of our food took a long time to arrive and we barely could see the servers. When another one came with our soups we told him we had less than 45 to catch a ferry. The food still took a while to arrive but he called us a taxi which was waiting for us at the hotel entrance by the time we were leaving. I thought 90 minutes would’ve been plenty to eat here but unfortunately they weren’t. Service was good but very slow. The attention to every detail in each dish ordered was excellent. The location was impecable and the decor impressive. We were celebrating a birthday and it was definitely the perfect...
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