I always end up here when I visit Athens. There are a few dotted around the city, but it doesn’t matter which one you go to, the quality is remarkably consistent.

This place only recently started offering plates. Normally you get a sheet of waxed paper, but it really doesn’t matter. The food is great, and Greeks tend to break plates anyway if there’s something to celebrate.

I always get a pork souvlaki, despite not really liking pork kebabs anywhere else. Here they are done just right, slightly pink, wonderful brown crust on the outside, sprinkled with fragrant oregano. Mmm. There’s a hunk of pitta underneath soaking up the juices.

You can also have lamb chops. Please do order more than you think you want. They come out smoky and brown, and you can eat 5 or 10 just chatting over a beer.

The grill masters here are really masters of their craft. Barbecuing meat is a skill, on par with bartending and pastry making. It may look simple, most people can do a passable version of it, but it’s really really hard to do well. The chaps at Ladokolla have mastered it.

Salads are optional but nice anyway. Greek appetisers such as saganaki fried cheese, hummus and taramasalata are okay, but not obligatory. Just order the grilled stuff.