Niigatasengyodonya Koshokudo — Restaurant in Niigata

Sometimes the best meals aren’t the ones you plan. That’s how we found ourselves at Niigatasengdonya. I wouldn’t even have been in Niigata if I hadn’t left my backpack with my passport inside on the train to Omiya a few days earlier. Once the retrieval mission was complete, we made our way to the seafood market near the port. The place was alive with energy. Locals were shopping for their daily staples while others enjoyed plates of fresh seafood right there in the market.

We started with oysters and scallops, both fresh and flavorful, before deciding we wanted a little more before our sake distillery tour. The sushi train nearby looked tempting, but the line stretched far too long. That’s when we noticed Niigatasengdonya, known for its donburi bowls. The menu offered a wide range of combinations that allowed Mike to try several types of fish he had never experienced before. We also added a platter of tempura featuring prawns and oysters. The oysters in particular were huge, plump, and briny, the kind that makes you stop mid-bite just to appreciate them.

By the end of the meal we were full to the gills, but not in the heavy, uncomfortable way that comes with too much starch. This was a pleasant fullness, the sort that leaves you satisfied yet ready for a walk to soak up the moment. The restaurant had both traditional floor seating and regular tables. The hostess quickly realized that floor seating would be a challenge for us, so she guided us to a table, and our order arrived without delay.

It turned out to be another excellent seafood experience in Japan. Each meal here feels like a lesson in freshness and simplicity. I honestly don’t know how I’m supposed to return to eating sushi at home after this. It...

By far, the absolute WORST meal I’ve ever eaten in Japan. Bar none.

I often eat at fish/seafood restaurants, and teishoku (especially sashimi teishoku), is one of my go to meals. I’ve probably had sashimi teishoku at 70-80 different restaurants throughout Japan.

The service at this place is horrendous. I have not encountered worse service anywhere in the world, at any restaurant. I was not offered water, despite asking twice, and other tables having it served automatically. Similarly, I was not given a wet towel (oshibori) until about 5 minutes after asking for it - again, came standard with meals for other diners. Servers refused eye contact, and would not acknowledge my request, etc (“sumimasen”) for help. They pretended I did not exist.

The food is also worse than mediocre, despite being located in a market. The fish was not fresh, and the raw oyster I ordered was definitely rotten. The rice was mushy and not freshly made. Further, large size rice (oomori, often free of charge) was extra, and this was not stated upon ordering - a nice surprise with the bill.

The side dishes were so deficient in amount, I couldn’t help but laugh. The pickled daikon was cut 2-3 mm thick, and only one quarter slice was served (I.e., the whole side dish was the size of one 100 yen coin at most). There were about 7 bean sprouts in the other side dish.

Even if this was the only restaurant open and I was starving, I would not eat here.

TDLR: the worst service in Japan, bring your own water and oshibori, rotten seafood despite being in a...

お盆直前のこと 早朝に長野を発して新潟へ。飯綱をぬけ信濃町から高速道路を行く。もう少し時間が遅ければ、小林農園でトウモロコシを食べていくのだが。 妙高、高田、上越ジャンクションを過ぎると北陸自動車道はほとんど直線ではないか、と思えるほどまっすぐで風景の変化が少ない。  新潟市立美術館に到着、企画展である 「きたれ、バウハウス」 を観にきたのだ。 バウハウスとは1919年から14年間だけ存在した、ドイツの造形学校。開校100周年を記念しての回顧展だという。建築屋として見逃してはならないだろう。  建築家で初代校長ヴァルター・グロピウスが 「すべての造形活動の最終目標は建築である」 というコンセプトで設立された学校で、先鋭的というかトンガリ方が凄まじい。カンディンスキー（なんて大物が講師だったのだ）の出す課題「分析的デッサン」なんてほとんど数学だ。 その他、家具・金属工芸・陶器・織物・壁画・彫刻・印刷・広告・版画・舞台美術にまで及ぶ教育課程。ブロイヤーチェアがめちゃめちゃカッコいい。というか、マルセル・ブロイヤーってバウハウス出身だったのか、となにを今さらな知識を得たり。 当然、建築科もあったが、 "教えるほうも教わるほうも機が熟すまで" というグロピウスの方針で1927年、なんと、一番遅い設立だったとは、ドイツ人の生真面目さかユーモアだったのか。  トンガリ続けてモダニストを輩出し続けたバウハウスは、第一次世界大戦で負けたドイツを新しく生まれ変わらせようと作られたのだが、新しくできたドイツ=ナチスによって解体されるとは皮肉以外の何者でもない。  熱が上がりボーッとした状態で外へ。日頃使っていないアタマに刺激を与えるとこうなってしまう。とりあえず昼飯だ、美味いものを食べて冷却しよう。  「港食堂」 このところお気に入りのピアス万代の一廓にある居酒屋さんだ。息子が『刺身たべたい』というのでこちらへ。一人暮らしでは、高くて刺身にありつけないというが、カネがなければバイトくらいしてもよいのだぞ。  「栃尾の油揚げ」550円 栃尾とは長岡市東部の町。こちらの名物である大きな油揚げを焼きあげたもの。長野でも見かけるが、やはり新潟でいただくものはレベルが違う。しっとりふんわりしていてじつに美味い。輸送工程で水分が抜けてしまうからか？  「刺身定食」1200円 本当は別のものをいただきたかったのだが売り切れとのこと。では別日を機してこちらに変更する。 このての定食ものを長野で注文すると、ほんの少しの刺身しか出てこないのだが、やはり海の街は違う。生ダコ、カツオ、いか、中とろ、タイ、サーモン、甘エビがてんこ盛りしかも高鮮度とくれば何事か物申すことはない。  「漁師汁」200円 いわゆるアラ汁というものだがスケールが違う。器の半分がアラ、しかも可食部たっぷりほとんど「大量魚入りみそ汁」である。熱々でじつに美味いが食べづらいという贅沢かつ麗しの存在であった。  そういえば、また新潟へ行ったのか。そんなに息子が可愛いのか？と言われそうだ。たしかにわが子は可愛いものだがそれだけではない。やはり、この街そのものが面白いのだ。新潟よいとこ、...