Coarse Restaurant, Durham: A Symphony of Bold Flavours and Culinary Artistry
Nestled in the heart of Durham, Coarse Restaurant exudes an unpretentious charm, with its minimalist decor and unassuming ambiance. Yet, what it lacks in ostentation, it more than compensates for with its audacious approach to flavours and a menu that reads like a manifesto of culinary creativity. My visit to Coarse was nothing short of a revelation, a testament to what happens when ambition meets skill in the kitchen.
Our journey commenced with a Tomato Tart that stood as a testament to simplicity elevated to the sublime. The tart crust, impossibly delicate and buttery, cradled a medley of tomatoes that tasted like summer distilled into bite-sized jewels. This was no ordinary tart; it was a masterclass in balancing acidity with sweetness, with the creamy burrata providing a luscious counterpoint. And then there was the nduja—ah, the nduja! Spicy, bold, and unapologetically assertive, it brought the dish to life, each bite a riot of contrasts that danced merrily on the palate.
Next, the Monkfish with French Peas and Roast Chicken Butter arrived, looking almost too good to eat. The monkfish, perfectly seared and succulent, was a testament to the kitchen’s technical prowess. It flaked beautifully under the fork, revealing its tender, sweet flesh. The French peas added a pop of verdant freshness, a nod to the spring season, while the roast chicken butter was an inspired touch. It imbued the dish with a richness that was at once comforting and indulgent, a luxurious whisper of poultry that lingered on the tongue.
Then came the Barbecue Lamb, a dish that boldly traversed continents. The lamb, infused with Indian spices, was a revelation, its smoky, charred exterior yielding to a tender, succulent interior. Each mouthful was an odyssey through spice and smoke, with the Jersey Royals providing a starchy, earthy counterpoint. The samphire, with its briny snap, added a touch of the sea, a perfect harmony of land and ocean. It was a dish that spoke of long, languorous barbecues and distant, exotic markets, a celebration of flavour that was both familiar and thrillingly new.
Dessert was a Strawberry Cheesecake that could have easily been a study in how to end a meal on a high note. The cheesecake itself was a dream—silky smooth with just the right amount of tang. The strawberries, bursting with summer ripeness, were complemented by the subtle warmth of Mexican vanilla. And then there were the hazelnuts, adding a delightful crunch and a nutty richness that elevated the dessert from merely delicious to truly unforgettable.
Coarse Restaurant doesn’t just serve food; it tells stories through its dishes, weaving narratives of taste that linger long after the last bite. Each plate is a carefully crafted journey, a reflection of the chef’s artistry and an invitation to explore the boundaries of flavour. In a city brimming with culinary talent, Coarse stands out as a beacon of innovation and excellence. It is a place where every meal feels like an event, every dish a celebration. And for that, it deserves not just a visit, but a...
Read moreI have visited Coarse previously over a year ago and had such a fantastic experience. I’m not sure what happened on our visit this weekend but the menu and service did not live up to expectations. The first two courses were the best of the bunch, with the cheese and onion orzo being the best course I had for the whole meal. It seemed to go downhill from here. We had an upwards of a 30 minute wait until the halibut came. When it did come, the halibut seemed overcooked and dry, like it had been sat under the heat lamp for some time. It was at this point, I realised they had tried to align a few tables. I was sat by the kitchen so I could see all the plates/bowls being lined up and left until they were all ready for service. This led to lengthy waits between each course for the remainder of the meal. This was most apparent in the chicken course where the chicken itself was luke warm at best and the sauce and fried chicken was boiling hot. This just isn’t acceptable for a tasting menu which is costing £60pp. All other courses were mediocre, they tasted fine, some a little salty/overseasoned. The last dessert course was good, but again, the choc ice felt like it had been left out for some time with it not being particularly cold when eating it. The cherry sorbet was the standout there. The service itself was impersonal. No one asked about drink refills so we had to flag people down for a drinks order or top-up of water. Only one person asked how the food was at the end. The other staff clearing plates were slow and did not engage in conversation. I have been to other tasting menu restaurants in the area where the service is part of the experience and talking about the food in between adds to the atmosphere and allows for feedback. Overall, we were in the restaurant past our allotted time at the table. The 7 courses took over 2.5 hours which was much longer than expected or needed. Especially when there was little atmosphere and the food wasn’t great. It obviously also meant we had to buy extra drinks. For comparison, a 14 course taster menu at another restaurant took the same amount of time. Maybe operating on services would work better rather than trying to align tables as and when they come in. Based on this experience, I’m not sure I would recommend to family or friends and I don’t think I would return in future. It’s much too expensive to leave...
Read moreWe were very surprised when we walked in. Very strange atmosphere No music. No mood lighting, very bare. Was like a 'Pop-up' Restaurant! No table cloths. Basic tables and chairs. Table spacing was good. Servers were a bit robotic, but pleasant. However, food was outstanding. Mind it should be its £100 before you sit down for your 6 course taster menu. Very small plates of food, but beautiful flavours, textures. Very clever menu. There was an extra course, if you wanted it for £12 per head. Lost count how many times our waitress asked if we wanted the extra course! Wine was pleasant and reasonably priced about £30 to £50. Beer delivered in cans to your table (with a glass). Mine was not cold. Place was 75% full mid week, with nice buzz, but a little background music would have helped improve the atmosphere. Toilet (shared) was lovely and clean. I think the place is a little overrated to be honest. I have been in much better value restaurants -but it is in the centre of Durham! A 10% discretionary service charge is added to your bill. Total was £160 for two, is a little on the expensive side for me. Would I come back? possibly not. It was our anniversary meal, and it just was not romantic enough! It was like enjoying fantastic food in a café! I know it has many fantastic reviews, and they change the menu every 6 weeks or so, consequently, those affluent folk in Durham will keep returning for the beautiful food. Lots of other places to try first. But...
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