3/5 Stars: Delicious West African Cuisine, but Room for Improvement (especially concerning for those with allergies)
I had the pleasure of dining at Akoko, a West African restaurant in London, and I must say that the food was absolutely divine. From the starters to the jollof rice, every dish was a delightful introduction to the flavors of West Africa. The open kitchen concept allowed us to witness the chefs in action, adding to the overall dining experience. 5/5 for the food.
However, I feel compelled to deduct one star due to the atmosphere in the open kitchen. While I appreciate the transparency that an open kitchen provides, it's crucial to be mindful of what diners can see and hear. It appeared that the chefs were working under a certain level of fear and pressure from the head chef. Although I understand the head chef's desire to maintain high standards in food quality and timely service, his criticism of staff and body language had a noticeable impact on his team. The chefs looked terrified, which was evident from their actions and facial expressions.
I'm deducting another star for the lack of attention to food allergies and intolerances, as well as the defensive approach taken when mistakes were made. Before visiting the restaurant, I had stressed my gluten intolerance three times: during the booking process (via email), at check-in, and when seated with our server while ordering. We clearly communicated that soy and cross-contamination were acceptable, but anything wheat-based (e.g., crub coating, bread, biscuits) was not.
Everything was fine until dessert, when we were served a wafer that appeared to contain gluten. We sought clarification from the pastry chef server, who bluntly stated, "It definitely contains gluten, everything you've consumed at the restaurant has contained gluten." He repeated this statement with what seemed like a smirk, "Everything you ate has gluten." We were taken aback by his carefree attitude and lack of concern. We politely mentioned that we had informed our server and the check-in desk about my gluten intolerance, to which he responded defensively, "Nope - none of us has been informed about the gluten intolerance. Nope, none of us have been."
We found his defensive tone puzzling, especially since we had approached the situation with a friendly demeanor and no agitation. The dessert server took away the desserts and left without an apology, never returning to our table. A replacement dessert was served by someone else. Concerned about the potential consumption of gluten, we inquired if any other dishes had accidentally used gluten as a main ingredient, emphasizing that soy and cross-contamination were acceptable. However, no one ever provided us with an answer.
When settling the bill, I asked our main server once more if I might have accidentally consumed anything containing gluten. His response was extremely defensive, stating, "You said you could eat soy." I clarified that soy and wheat are very different things. At that point, I gave up trying to determine if I would experience stomach discomfort from the accidental consumption of gluten, as the staff simply did not seem to care. I’d note that no staff ever apologized for serving the dessert made with wafers containing gluten.
In conclusion, while Akoko offers a fantastic culinary experience for someone wanting to experience West African cuisine, there is room for improvement in terms of the kitchen environment and the handling of food allergies and intolerances. I hope the management takes these concerns into consideration to ensure a more enjoyable dining experience for all...
Read moreSummary: One of those places that you'd definitely want to return to. Atmosphere is great, food is even better.
When you first enter the space you're greeted with a warm atmosphere and the beautiful sound of west African music.
The open kitchen affords you the opportunity to watch the chefs perform what can only be described as magic.
From the first bite of food you're transported to a far away, yet familiar world. For those of us who were born in the motherland, the nostalgia could almost bring you to tears. The chefs have found a way to corral authentic and untamable flavours into bite sized packages. Small enough to leave room for the rest of the tasting menu but big enough to drive home the artful marriage of flavours.
I will try not to give away too much as the element of surprise plays a part in the experience. The tasting menu I had began with a trio of treats that rekindle memories of a childhood spent buying snacks from road side grills. The smokey taste of a well roasted yam and the subtle co-operation of boli and epa.
If you've had the pleasure of eating in an African country, your first reaction might be to question the portion sizes, but remember, there are more courses to come. The next course was what I can only describe as the best pumpkin soup I have ever tasted. The soup was light and multilayered, with an incredible depth of flavour, I found myself savouring every spoonfull and wishing the moment would never end, but alas, time doesn't stand still, even for the best of reasons.
Next came the jollof rice, rich with the taste of firewood and perfectly cooked. Anyone who is a connoisseur of the fine art of eating jollof knows that smokey party jollof is difficult to pull off. The chef knocks it out of the park, the rice is so good you forget about the slice of a goat ballotine that was placed gingerly on top of it.
At this point I had convinced myself that the pumpkin soup was unbeatable, the summit of flavour, but then came the quail. The tiny bird packed a punch reminiscent of the smoked guinea fowl you can buy on the Lagos mainland, but it was so much more tender and succulent. Now I'm not saying the pumpkin soup was dethroned, but it now shared it's place in my heart with this small and seductive bird.
I'm not a big fan of desserts and I don't think desserts are a massive part of West African cuisine but the final course was a goat milk ice-cream accompanied by some culinary twists and turns. I have to confess I had already tasted my favourite things, but this was wonderful.
All in all, I can say I will definitely be coming back here to relive...
Read moreStepping into the heart of Soho, my quest for an unforgettable dining experience led me to Akoko, a hidden gem teetering on the edge of the London culinary radar. Sporting an impressive 4.8-star rating, this West African restaurant beckoned, promising a taste of the exotic.
The refined design of the place immediately won me over, striking a fine balance between authenticity and modernity. The courteous, professional staff augmented the experience, with a notably astute Italian waiter, making sure to account for our dietary preferences.
Akoko embraces the tasting menu trend common to high-end eateries, serving up a spectacle of eight dishes, two more than originally promised. The menu offered a sensory assault, with the majority of the courses proving to be delectably challenging. The highlights for my palate were the luxurious Caviar on goat and cashew nut cream, the tantalisingly textured Beef Tongue Skewer with a bone marrow aioli, and a refreshing, innovative dessert - Butternut Squash ice cream paired with smoked pistachios and lemon meringue kisses.
While the Fish dishes unfortunately didn't make a splash, and the flagship Rice and Grilled Beef dish's theatrical serving was slightly let down by a familiar taste, the overall impression remained positive. As a seasoned diner, the taste was enjoyable but not novel. However, this should in no way deter those seeking to venture into new culinary territories.
The seasoning felt true to its West African roots - bold and assertive - though this might be a bit too adventurous for some. For those like myself who crave a roller coaster of flavours, it was an absolute delight.
Despite the exorbitant £350 bill for the tasting menu and cocktails for two, Akoko delivered a singular dining experience. The price tag might raise a few eyebrows but given the unforgettable journey it offers, it justifies its worth as a 'splurge-worthy' destination.
To sum up, Akoko is a refreshing gastronomic delight for those willing to pay the price. It might have a few rough edges, but the overall experience was nothing short of sensational. Therefore, my expert rating is a solid 4.5 out of 5 stars - for its bold flavours, exquisite service, and the memorable evening...
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