The Bull and Last — Restaurant in London

The Bull and Last in Highgate has quickly earned its spot as a favourite local of ours. This is a pub, yes, but one where the food is the undeniable draw, crafted with a care and attention to detail that elevates it far beyond typical pub fare. It’s a cut above the other pubs in the area, and while a bit pricier, it’s generally justified.

We started with the ricotta-stuffed courgette flower. While a nice, light starter, it wasn't particularly memorable, although the balance of creamy ricotta, parmesan, and honey was well judged. The oyster mushroom tempura, on the other hand, was excellent – the mushrooms encased in a perfectly light, crisp batter, their earthiness complemented by the nutty depth of roasted sesame.

The main courses demonstrated a kitchen confident in its ability to deliver both comfort and a touch of the unexpected. My grilled sardines, while naturally oily, were well-cooked, their flavour enhanced by a vibrant gremolata and a bright squeeze of lemon. The slow-cooked pig cheek was a definite highlight – incredibly tender, with a delightful richness. The addition of unagi smoked eel was an interesting touch, lending a smoky, umami depth that was cleverly cut through by the fresh radish, soy, and coriander.

The pan-fried skate cheeks were delicate and flavourful, paired with a silken artichoke puree. The scattering of chorizo and pistachio picada atop added a welcome textural contrast and a gentle hum of spice. The heritage beetroot salad was far from an afterthought – a vibrant, colourful plate with a good mix of earthy, sweet, and tangy flavours. The creamy goat curds, beetroot fritters, crunchy salsify crisps, and pickled walnuts all contributed to a satisfying dish.

The slow-cooked wild hare ragu was tasty and the pappardelle cooked al dente. It was a good, solid dish and nice to have something hearty and flavourful so close to home, although the ragu itself didn't reach the heights of some I've had elsewhere.

For dessert, we enjoyed both the sticky toffee pudding and the Bramley apple and blackberry nut crumble. The sticky toffee pudding was rich and satisfying, with the pistachio ice cream a pleasant pairing. The crumble was a well-executed classic – comforting and familiar - the tartness of the fruit and the creamy vanilla ice cream and clotted cream were certainly enjoyable.

The Bull and Last offers a winning combination: a relaxed, welcoming pub atmosphere and very good food, prepared with skill and a clear passion for quality ingredients. It delivers well on the pub food front and it’s a great option for a relaxed evening, good company, and an enjoyable casual meal, when you don’t feel like whipping up a meal at home. We'll certainly be...

🚇Gospel Oak 🍺 £6.90 So Solid Brew

The Bull & Last is located close to Parliament Hill Fields, in Dartmouth Park, at the northern end of Kentish Town. The nearest station is Gospel Oak.

The Bull & Last was first documented in 1721 and was known as ‘Ye Last’, it was rebuilt after a fire in 1883. This pub was extensively refurbished in 2008 with the addition of seven guest bedrooms.

This is a traditionally decorated one bar Gastropub which has additional function rooms on the first floor. The main bar is located on the ground floor and is set out in an “L” shape. As you enter, the servery is located on the right and has two large bull’s heads above the back bar. There is plenty of conventional seating throughout with rustic tables and comfy banquettes. The walls, ceiling and servery are clad in tongue and groove panels and there is a solid looking fireplace on the far wall. For the warmer months, there are a few benches with parasols outside.

The beer selection is impressive and offers a choice of brews from independent breweries. I decided on a So Solid Brew, my pint was excellent, price point was high. The food menu is award winning restaurant quality Gastro fayre, Fish & Chips costs £24, Roasts are available on a Sunday.

We visited around 2pm on an overcast Saturday afternoon in May. The pub was very busy with a well healed crowd in attendance. The atmosphere was upbeat and convivial, there was a lovely buzz around the bar. The service was welcoming and friendly.

Visiting a Gastropub when you just want a pint can sometimes be an awkward experience. This pub is geared up to serve culinary delights rather than round after round of pints with Soccer Saturday on mute. All said, we enjoyed our visit here, the beer was great if a little pricey, the atmosphere was superb and the hospitality was on point. The @thebullandlast is definitely a pub for the gastronomes amongst you and a nice place for a pint.

📅 18th May 2024

More London Pub info...

High ceilings and wooden floors, a lot of taxidermy, grade 2 listed, old fashioned pub, next to Hampstead Heath. That’s a good start.

The Bull & Last wreaks of the story of what’s made it. On old pub in Highgate was going spare, and Joe, Ollie and Freddie stepped in in early 2009. Joe is an ex-Wolseley manager, Ollie has studied in France and survived working with Richard Corrigan and it’s suspected Freddie is a Laird in Scotland. Evidence comes in the form of the Stag Room upstairs, so named for the beautiful piece of taxidermy above the fireplace, which is Freddie’s Mum’s first kill – a mighty beast that she then had to drag over the hills to get home.

Joe is from a farm in North Yorkshire, and used to host the most rock ‘n’ roll meat stand to be found at farmers’ markets across the north of England (they had a wall of TV screen!) in keeping with their nose to tail offerings, and to keep the chefs up to scratch with butchery skills, Joe’s Dad will often bring one of his finest grain-fed wagyu cattle for the delectation of the customers.

The name The Bull & Last comes from the fact that the pub used to be the most northern pub on the road as you left London, so the coachman would shout ‘The Bull - and last stop.’

The Bull & Last is a hotch potch of talents and interests; a young business full of ideas, looking to be the best in town, they bring an eclectic approach to menu style, décor, service style, and not to mention music choice. A tip: if you’re a table of 8 or above ask for the Stag Room, especially in winter, and come early, you’ll get the table all night. A perfect den for a cosy crew.

Thanks for the tip off: Roasted Sundays Blog, Jaakko Harlas and...