Heaneys Restaurant — Restaurant in Wales

FOOD AS ART NOT AS SUSTENANCE

I find writing a review of Heaneys a difficult task, the food was some of the nicest I have ever tasted, but the overall effect of the meal was to leave me hungry and needing to eat something when I got home from the restaurant.

This seems strange as Tommy Heaney is an Irish man and I have always associated Ireland, both North and South, with generosity, especially of food, be it the famous Irish Fry or Ulster Fry or the food I’ve experienced at Richard Corrigan’s or Clare Smyth’s restaurants and elsewhere.

The concept of Heaney’s with its multiple small plates is a clever one as it allows for a wide range of flavours and textures, but the execution of the dishes makes me wonder if the chef was forced to eat his vegetables as a youngster as, apart from the sprouting broccoli, any veg was in the form of a tiny dice or a cream or gel. This meant that I felt the need of a dish of vegetables, or new potatoes alongside the small plates, and these options weren’t available. In the end I added two orders of chips, and these were excellent chips, but they weren’t enough to stretch the menu from an exploration of food to a real dinner.

I know all that sounds negative, but I reiterate that the experience of Heaneys, apart from the meanness on the food, was an excellent one. The service from walking through the door and the attentiveness of Oliver our waiter and the other serving staff was of the highest quality. The setting is also a pleasant one, with well used lighting and enough space between diners so that the space does not feel cramped.

My partner and I followed the suggestion of our waiter and ordered a selection of dishes and were really pleased with them all.

A lovely selection of flavours, with well-cooked food, served with care and attention. But why, oh why was there not more vegetables or something of substance, so that the diner leaves not only feeling they have had an artistic demonstration of how food can be prepared but also dinner...

Booking a midweek meal at a popular Michelin Guide restaurant, from bitter experience, can be hit or miss, but our visit to Heaneys in Cardiff was exceptional. Known for showcasing the finest Welsh ingredients in its tasting menu and expertly curated wine pairings, Heaneys exceeded our expectations.

From the moment we arrived, Jake, Alex, and Beth were attentive, skilfully accommodating my wife’s shellfish allergy and moving us to a more spacious table when requested. Their genuine care continued throughout the evening, with every interaction feeling thoughtful and personalised.

The tasting menu was a journey of beautifully crafted dishes, each highlighting fresh, seasonal Welsh and British ingredients. The standout Isle of Wight tomato dish was a perfect example of how simplicity can be elevated, paired beautifully with a 2022 Kumusha Chenin Blanc, a wine I wouldn’t have chosen myself. The variety and balance of flavours reflected the team’s ability to turn local produce into a memorable experience.

Alex’s wine pairings were equally impressive, as he introduced a diverse selection of wines from Georgia, France, and a beautiful A26 Chardonnay from Napa Valley. Each wine was thoughtfully paired, enhancing the overall dining experience.

The service struck a perfect balance between professionalism and warmth, with Jake and Alex happy to discuss ingredients and techniques. The cosy, welcoming atmosphere made the evening all the more enjoyable.

Heaneys is more than just a Michelin Guide-listed restaurant; it’s a must-visit destination. Whether for a special occasion or a midweek treat, the superb food, excellent wine pairings, and attentive service make it an...

Having visited Heaney’s via a somewhat random Google search in 2021, this year’s trip to Cardiff simply could not have happened without a return to this phenomenal culinary gem in Pontcanna.

My friends and I were charmed by the smiling, attentive, but ruthlessly efficient team, and each of our 3 courses ensured a Sunday afternoon to be remembered.

After the (naturally divisive) whipped Marmite butter and bread brought out to accompany our cocktails, I savoured a beautifully textured and balanced fish cake starter, Welsh lamb rump so pillowy and flavoursome that each mouthful resulted in my eyes rolling back in their sockets in sheer appreciation, and finally rounded off with a trio of Welsh cheeses that were defended by an armed guard of crisp flatbreads, held vertically to attention in a neighbouring bowl of pearl barley. Without doubt, this was a faultless dining experience.

Where I currently live, a meal of a comparable (or even lesser) standard could have cost me upwards of £70. At Heaney’s, those same exquisite 3 courses were £35. Appreciative that right now, in these worrying times, people are after value over extravagance, I cannot think of a better place to have a special occasion, with friends or family, where local in-season ingredients are presented with such care and attention.

Exceptional quality food for exceptional value. I look forward to my...