Butcher's Union is one of those special places that brings up the entire foodie neighborhood, not because they're doing difficult dishes well but the simple dishes show back-of-house care, from the selection of the ingredients to the execution and plating. Even the front-of-house décor, hostessing, and service shine. Stephanie, the maître d' par excellence, juggled all the crazy with a smile on her face.

Walking in, we were greeted by several exceedingly busy co-hostesses. This is a big place, with four dining areas (one of which is out-of-doors), and it was packed. The waitlist was closed mid-afternoon. This is a busy kitchen! Each of the spaces has its own flavor: sidewalk dining, under umbrellas and heat lamps, feels like being in the back streets of old town Paris or Barcelona. The right-side area, with big, upholstered booths, feels small-town. The left-side area, with huge French doors open to the sidewalk, and the family-style tables parallel to the bar, feel more big city. And the rear area featuring white-washed brick with hanging ferns feels like a country solarium, or somesuch.

The menu is impressive, both with its breadth and the featured local ingredients. It's very New American, with roots in the Old World.

The sweetheart made her first move, starting off with the Mushroom Toast (trumpet mushroom from Pebble Creek, porcini aïoli, béarnaise, pickled cipollini onion). Way more than the sum of its parts, this rocked me. The quality of the pain de campagne, the crisp toasting, the pungent porcini aïoli, the sauce béarnaise, the tartness of the cipollini -- they all combine to be an EXPLOSION OF FLAVOR! Seriously, this is a simple dish cranked out expertly. Try this or live a life of regret.

I countered with the Mild-Mannered Meatballs (freshly-ground beef & pork, creamy polenta, stewed blistered tomato sauce, shaved parmesan, and scallions) had a really, really hard act to follow but somehow managed not to be overshadowed. The meatballs have a perfect consistency, perhaps a bit of parmesan within, the polenta is everything it lacks in many other places, and together are a homey, comforting spoonful. Fork? You amateur! :-) The best of all, it's seasoned properly, perhaps even aggressively, which is a reassurance in a land of bland plates.

The sweetheart continued, ordering the Beef Stroganoff (smoked brisket from River City Meats, apple cider demi, crème fraîche, roasted baby carrots, cipollini onions, pickled beech mushrooms, house-made brown butter spaetzle). The meat was cooked perfectly; soft and tender and full of flavor. The cipollini added just the zing necessary. The parsley garnish was unnecessary.

I countered with the BU Bacon-Wrapped Meatloaf (cracked black pepper pan gravy, sweet red onion marmalade, creamy garlicky mashed potatoes, arugula). Another flavor engine running on all cylinders! After cooking, each slice met the griddle for a few moments, so there was tasty seared surfaces (a technique I am so stealing). The red onion marmalade serves a function similar to the German rotkohl (sweet and sour red cabbage); the acid brings out the best in the dish. This was a winner.

The dessert that spoke to us was the Bourbon Apple Crisp (braised honeycrisp apples from Peach Ridge Farms, almond streusel, vanilla ice cream, and toffee caramel). While I'm used to my mom's cooking the apples down until they're mushy, the sweetheart thought the al dente presentation worked best against the other textures. The streusel was perfectly crunchy and tasty, and the bourbon caramel mixture gave the sweetness some contrast and body.

Butcher's Union did a really excellent job all around and is high on my list of places to return to (perhaps before we leave, although I was thinking of our next trip to Grand Rapids). With seasonal (or even more frequent) menu changes, BU is pretty close to essential eating.