Upon my initial inspection of the menu a particular item became stuck in my attention like a splinter stuck in the skin between index finger and thumb. An appetizer called “gang gang shrimp” with the pithy yet cryptic description “…you already know.”

Surely, I do not! How presumptuous to infer that I and any other would-be patron would speak and understand fluent Japanese when ordering from a ramen shop located in Vermont?

It turns out I did already know, but for reasons I was not expecting.

Screw it, I said to myself, I’m on vacation.

a friendly woman answered the phone and took my order, making sure that my arrival would coincide with the preparation, such that I would walk out of the restaurant with food at the peak of its eatability. I highlight this prior point because it is a level of attention to detail which is uncommon and much appreciated.

I ordered the “gang gang” shrimp, edamame, a miso ramen, and a tonkatsu ramen. Everything was fresh, delicious, and the ingredients went beautifully together both visually and on the palate. The noodles were cooked al dente, the broth complex. $20 for a bowl of broth and noodles is a bit pricey, but the portion is generous, as is the accompanying cut of pork which was thick, infinitely tender, and tasty. Then the corn and greens provided a nice crunch and contrast. The half egg was wholly excellent with a bright orange yolk.

I did not partake of the edamame as I am not a fan generally, but my wife informed me they were quite good, and judging from the large pile of unshelled vs small pile of shelled edamame, I can confirm, without trusting words alone, that the beans were enjoyable.

Finally, as for the “gang gang” shrimp:

I heard once an anthropological theory which states that when a culture becomes old enough, less language is needed to convey meaning. In other words, in some cultures, one can communicate a complex thought with as little as a glance or a gesture; context and circumstance become so common to the cultural experience that a single word, a particular glance, or well-timed smile/frown etc can provide mutual understanding between two people in a way that might require several words or even sentences otherwise.

For the description of the shrimp, the prefixed hesitating ellipses belie an omniscient and yet coy confidence; like a loaded glance between brothers, communicating conspiracy with a secret semaphore of facial expression.

As to the taste of it: the shrimp was tender, coated with a beautiful sauce whose flavor complemented the perfectly cooked shrimp itself. It was spicy, but not overpowering, just enough to accentuate the flavors with a little kick.

When I picked up my order, the establishment as well as the staff were warm and welcoming. Regretfully, this will likely be the first and last time I patronize Yama Ramen, as I am but a traveler passing through. However, I hope this review serves to bolster this fine eatery’s reputation and revenue. The fine people there are passionate about their craft, and about their customers.

So, from one humble traveler to another: get some ramen here, become a part of the gang gang. But you already know…