Iglesia de Santo Tomé — Attraction in Toledo

Church of Saint Tome: Faith, Art and Hope

To tell the truth, I had no plan to visit this church. There is a small cost of 2 and half euros. What attracted me to it was the yearning to see the death of the Count of Orgaz. I paid the small amount just to see this Masterpiece. The legend says that a gentleman named Gonzalo Ruiz of Toledo around the fifteen century financially supported the renovation of the church. In gratitude the population commissioned the paint of the burial of the Count of Orgaz. El Greco, a gifted artist and member of the congregation did the work. It is a profoundly touching painting and one can see the heavens above and the deathbed of the Count. Some said among the mourners is El Greco, third from the left. Concentrated on the people in the painting. They seemed so distant and so close. The church reflects the Mudejar and gothic styles of the times. First a Mosque, it was rebuilt in the 14th century. The building contained three tall arches and columns. Though the art from el Greco seems to be the main attraction, you should walk the church and truly study the architecture. For example, the two chapels are altars full of images baroque in nature. The instrument for baptismal ceremonies is ancient, dating to the 16th century. Impressive is also the image of the Virgin Mary, made from marble. The Chapel where the count is buried is the Chapel of the Conception. And this is where another interesting fact comes about. A legend says that when the count died, two angels came St. Stephen and St. Augustine. Hope flows out of the painting and from this church hope touches the traveler’s heart! Make sure to walk through the exterior tower and walk to the second floor. There is a cross with the letters alpha and omega, symbols of the Christian God. In the vicinity of the church there are museums, such as Museum of Greco. There are also inexpensive restaurants that offered good foods. The Locum Toledo had good food and offered small free tapas with my meal. You can spend about an hour in Santo Tome and spend the day in the area – a lots to...

My brother and I wanted to visit this church so we went to buy tickets and since I'm student my brother asked if there is student discount for me. The old man with beard who worked there selling tickets asked for European student card and since I didn't have it with myself I asked if I can enter with my student id from my country. He refused. We didn't know the prices for regular visitor so my brother gave him 10 euros. He returned first one euro and since he didn't return immediately another 5e change my brother thought that one ticket costs 9 euros so he gave him 50e to pay for himself. Then the man returned 5e, took 50e and asked my brother to pay for himself! My brother told him that he had already gave him 50e but the old man with beard pretended like he didn't. My brother tried to explain politely but that didn't work for this scammer. Then my brother got angry and started to shout. The woman which was some kind of boss of the old man with beard appeared and said that she doesn't speak English. We didn't want to give up and my brother said that he will call police, so the only way was to slam the table and the glass and to shout loudly so the old scammer gave up and give us back 40 euro. In anger we didn't pick up our tickets and visit the church. Everyone should be aware when trying to buy ticket at this place! Can't believe this is happening in a...

A Must-See Masterpiece of Spanish Art (Versión en español abajo)

Visiting the Iglesia de Santo Tomé in Toledo is an unforgettable experience, thanks to its most famous treasure: El Greco's "The Burial of the Count of Orgaz". This painting is not just a highlight of Spanish Renaissance art, but a spiritual and cultural landmark with deep layers of meaning.

The church itself is humble and quiet, but the moment you enter the chapel housing this painting, you're immediately struck by its sheer scale, detail, and mysticism. El Greco masterfully combines the celestial with the earthly: the upper part of the canvas depicts a swirling, visionary heaven with Christ, the Virgin Mary, and Saint John the Baptist, while the lower half presents the Count’s funeral, grounded in realism and local nobility.

Some tips for interpreting the work:

Look at the duality: Heaven above and earth below are rendered in completely different styles. The divine realm is elongated and ethereal; the earthly scene is more naturalistic.

Spot El Greco’s son: Jorge Manuel appears in the bottom left, pointing to the miraculous moment.

Find El Greco himself: He subtly included his own likeness among the mourners, emphasizing his presence in this historical-religious narrative.

Notice the miracle: Saints Stephen and Augustine are seen physically lowering the Count into the tomb, a depiction of the miraculous legend that led to this commission.

Don't miss the soul: A small, ghostlike figure is rising from the Count’s body toward the heavens, an innovative and daring representation of the soul’s ascent.

The painting also serves as a social document, showing the Toledo elite and clerical figures of the time, making it a kind of spiritual group portrait of 16th-century Spain.

Be sure to read the inscription underneath for historical context, and try to visit in quieter hours to take it all in without distraction. Photography is permitted, but no flash.

Una obra maestra imprescindible del arte español

Visitar la Iglesia de Santo Tomé en Toledo es una experiencia inolvidable, gracias a su tesoro más famoso: "El Entierro del Señor de Orgaz" de El Greco. Este cuadro no solo es una joya del Renacimiento español, sino también un hito espiritual y cultural con múltiples niveles de interpretación.

La iglesia en sí es sencilla y tranquila, pero en cuanto se entra en la capilla que alberga la pintura, uno queda impresionado por su escala, detalle y misticismo. El Greco combina magistralmente lo celestial con lo terrenal: la parte superior del lienzo representa un cielo turbulento y visionario con Cristo, la Virgen María y San Juan Bautista, mientras que la parte inferior presenta el entierro del Señor de Orgaz con un realismo impactante.

Algunos consejos para interpretar la obra:

Fíjate en la dualidad: El cielo arriba y la tierra abajo están representados en estilos completamente distintos. Lo divino es alargado y etéreo; lo terrenal es más naturalista.

Localiza al hijo de El Greco: Jorge Manuel aparece en la esquina inferior izquierda, señalando el momento milagroso.

Busca al propio El Greco: Se incluyó a sí mismo entre los asistentes al entierro, afirmando su presencia en esta narrativa histórico-religiosa.

Observa el milagro: San Esteban y San Agustín bajan físicamente al Conde al sepulcro, una representación del milagro que dio origen al encargo de la pintura.

No te pierdas el alma: Una pequeña figura fantasmal asciende del cuerpo del Conde hacia el cielo, una representación innovadora y audaz del alma elevándose.

El cuadro también funciona como documento social, retratando a la élite toledana y a figuras eclesiásticas de la época, convirtiéndolo en una especie de retrato espiritual colectivo del siglo XVI.

No dejes de leer la inscripción que hay debajo para comprender mejor el contexto histórico, y si puedes, visita en horas menos concurridas para disfrutarlo con más calma. Se permite hacer fotos,...