The place is beyond stunning. Gorgeous tiling and craftsmanship and a rich history. The inner patios of the madrasahs, incredible facades and colorful decorations set for an incredible wandering through the city. The sellers add some charm with their mix of silks and crafts and there are some restaurants or cafes to cool down while exploring.
I cannot keep the same excitement for the way the place is administered. The rich history I talked about? You're gonna have to find out by googling yourself, as you can count on one hand the number of exhibits or "museums" that were even remotely relevant to the towns history or to the building they were in. The quality of the cultural offering was poor and it seemed like they had to improvise an exhibition last minute so that they can justify charging an admission fee.
With some effort, the place could be much nicer - maps of Konya Ark and descriptions of different sections, more details about the history of the buildings, more context to what's being shown - like they do in Bukhara, for instance. But instead I was looking at pictures of apples and apricots (not even an exaggeration) in the first "museum" I visited. A bit more thought and vision into how to make this a more immersive journey, where you truly gain some knowledge and connect to what you're seeing, would be much appreciated.
Despite a rather lackluster involvement, the administration is very dynamic in hiking up prices. Compared to 150k for a ticket for 2 days (last year), right now it's 250k for 1 day and 3 of the previous included spots come at an extra charge of 100k each, so quite steep for Uzbeki standards (or for the amusement park the fortress has become).
Hope they correct course and manage to do something better with the immense potential of this place. It's still bound to be the highlight of your Uzbekistan trip, but this is despite, and not because of its...
Read moreI loved Khiva’s Itchan Kala, it is beautiful and feels like stepping back in time. What I personally didn’t like is the 200.000sum collective ticket. In the information site we were told that it was advisable to buy this ticket if willing to see a good amount of museums (which gives us the idea it was not compulsory) but in the majority of places (the 100% we tried actually) they refused to sell us a single entry ticket and send us to the west gate (where collective ticket is sold). So apparently it isn’t compulsory but in fact it is. And although it gives you access to a very long list of museums and historic buildings, the big part of them is pretty empty or full of souvenirs shops. Also the people working there have a very odd attitude for someone working in a museum (very often we got in a room where someone was on the phone or in a video call on loud speaker.. or couple of times we got someone following us with things like silk scarfs trying very hard to sell it to us). I’m not complaining about the price, I’m sure that someone will find it reasonable and would have a good use for it, what I don’t like is the strategy behind it, forcing someone to buy it even if short on time or not interested in seeing every single attraction. On top of this attractions like the minaret, the walls, the Ark lookout and the Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum (the most beautiful and outstanding place to visit in Khiva) are...
Read moreKhiva Kuhna Ark Fortress Kunya-Ark Citadel, Khiva.
Located within the heart of Khiva’s Itchan Kala, the Kunya-Ark Citadel—meaning “Old Fortress”—served as the royal residence of Khiva’s khans for over two centuries. Originally founded in the 17th century by Muhammad Erenk Khan, the citadel was expanded over time to become a fortified town within a town, containing all the essential structures of a functioning government and royal court.
The Kunya-Ark was both a seat of power and a private world for the khans and their families. Visitors can explore several fascinating sites, including the khan’s reception hall (kurinishkhana), the harem quarters, the mint, stables, arsenal, and even a mosque. One of the most striking areas is the open-air throne room, where the khan receives guests beneath a beautifully tiled iwan with elaborate blue-and-white ornamentation.
Architecturally, the complex offers a unique blend of simplicity and elegance. Its courtyards, richly decorated arches, and fine wood-carved columns showcase traditional Khivan craftsmanship.
Today, the Kunya-Ark, restored and preserved, allows tourists to step directly into the life of a khanate that once thrived at the crossroads of empires and caravan routes. A visit here is essential to understanding the grandeur and governance of one of Central Asia’s most...
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