Mimi Calpe Tanger – Beauty undermined by neglect
Despite its hectic location near the harbour—with its dusty street life and the pungent smells drifting over from the nearby fish market—Mimi Calpe Tanger is, at first glance, an oasis of calm and lush greenery amongst the chaos. The gardens that climb the hill are charmingly arranged: shady terraces with sofas, a lovely pool area, and even a treehouse room perched at the top. On arrival, we were welcomed warmly by the friendly young staff, offered coffee while waiting for our room, and given a pleasant tour explaining the history of the place.
Sadly, the experience ends there.
Our room, the Casita halfway up the garden slope, looked inviting at first—but stepping inside revealed a strong smell of damp and mildew, masked only by a large fan left running at full blast. We initially assumed this was a temporary consequence of cleaning and the city’s humidity, and hoped it would air out while we explored the city.
On returning later in the evening, the situation had become clearer—and worse. The room had a persistent, overpowering stench of sewage rising from the drains in the bathroom and toilet. The smell was unmistakable, and frankly unbearable. We called the night manager, who to his credit came quickly—and then admitted, quite openly, that they have daily complaints about the Casita’s plumbing and humidity, but that the French owner refuses to invest in repairs, preferring to keep renting the room as is.
It was now after midnight, and we were offered a different room up the hill in a wooden hut—but given the steep climb, the late hour, and the mosquitoes already inside the Casita, we declined. We spent the night trying to sleep with the doors open, the fan roaring, and mosquitoes for company.
The next morning brought the nicest part of our stay: a homemade breakfast of fresh local breads in the peaceful garden. But when we tried to discuss the issue with the manager, we were told he was out. Eventually, by insisting, we spoke by phone—only to hear, once again, that the owner knows about the sewage problem, but considers it acceptable because “some guests complain and some don’t.”
It is hard to overstate how disappointing this attitude is. The property itself is lovely, with obvious care in its design and setting. But knowingly renting out a room that reeks of sewage and pretending it’s just part of the charm is, frankly, unacceptable—especially at this price point.
In the end, you’re left with the sense that once you’ve paid and stayed, the hotel feels its obligation is over—and your discomfort doesn’t really matter because you’re unlikely to return.
Mimi Calpe Tanger could be a truly special place. But until the owner decides that guest comfort matters as much as the garden’s beauty, at least one room will remain uninhabitable—and the whole experience sadly overshadowed by neglect.
With so many other lovely riads and hotels in Tangier, avoid risking ruining your visit and simply choose another...
Read moreMimi Calpe Tanger – Beauty undermined by neglect||Despite its hectic location near the harbour—with its dusty street life and the pungent smells drifting over from the nearby fish market—Mimi Calpe Tanger is, at first glance, an oasis of calm and lush greenery amongst the chaos. The gardens that climb the hill are charmingly arranged: shady terraces with sofas, a lovely pool area, and even a treehouse room perched at the top. On arrival, we were welcomed warmly by the friendly young staff, offered coffee while waiting for our room, and given a pleasant tour explaining the history of the place.||Sadly, the experience ends there.||Our room, the Casita halfway up the garden slope, looked inviting at first—but stepping inside revealed a strong smell of damp and mildew, masked only by a large fan left running at full blast. We initially assumed this was a temporary consequence of cleaning and the city’s humidity, and hoped it would air out while we explored the city.||On returning later in the evening, the situation had become clearer—and worse. The room had a persistent, overpowering stench of sewage rising from the drains in the bathroom and toilet. The smell was unmistakable, and frankly unbearable. We called the night manager, who to his credit came quickly—and then admitted, quite openly, that they have daily complaints about the Casita’s plumbing and humidity, but that the French owner refuses to invest in repairs, preferring to keep renting the room as is.||It was now after midnight, and we were offered a different room up the hill in a wooden hut—but given the steep climb, the late hour, and the mosquitoes already inside the Casita, we declined. We spent the night trying to sleep with the doors open, the fan roaring, and mosquitoes for company.||The next morning brought the nicest part of our stay: a homemade breakfast of fresh local breads in the peaceful garden. But when we tried to discuss the issue with the manager, we were told he was out. Eventually, by insisting, we spoke by phone—only to hear, once again, that the owner knows about the sewage problem, but considers it acceptable because “some guests complain and some don’t.”||It is hard to overstate how disappointing this attitude is. The property itself is lovely, with obvious care in its design and setting. But knowingly renting out a room that reeks of sewage and pretending it’s just part of the charm is, frankly, unacceptable—especially at this price point.||In the end, you’re left with the sense that once you’ve paid and stayed, the hotel feels its obligation is over—and your discomfort doesn’t really matter because you’re unlikely to return.||Mimi Calpe Tanger "could be" a truly special place. But until the owner decides that guest comfort matters as much as the garden’s beauty, at least one room will remain uninhabitable—and the whole experience sadly overshadowed by neglect.||With so many other lovely riads and hotels in Tanger, avoid risking ruining your visit and simply choose another...
Read moreMimi Calpe occupies a compound of historic villas dating from the 1860s. They are among the oldest buildings in Tangier, Morocco, aside from those in the Kasbah and Medina.
Located on Rue de la Plage, the buildings now have five bedrooms and two two-bedroom suites that are entered from a peaceful inner courtyard with trees, shrubs and flowering gardens.
You ring the outside doorbell and the caretaker will open the gate. After you enter there are a few stairs to walk up to the central courtyard.
From an upper level, there are views of the Port de Tanger Ville, the crescent-shaped beach, Tanja Marina Bay and the Strait of Gibraltar. Also on the upper level is the narrow swimming pool.
All of the five bedrooms and two suites have fireplaces, spacious bathrooms and comfortable beds, and all are tastefully furnished. There are no telephones or televisions, but the rooms are heated in the cooler winter months. The WiFi is strong and reliable in all the rooms and garden.
Villa Calpe used to have four or five apartments, each with separate dining rooms and kitchens. Two of the apartments had once been occupied by acquaintances of mine.
When the compound was sold, the new owner converted the apartments into spacious rooms and suites for her guest house. The result was a design and décor worthy of Architectural Digest or Vogue.
Although the steep road may make Mimi Calpe unsuitable for the elderly or those with walking difficulties, you could have a car or taxi drop you off at the villa’s entrance. The sidewalks on both sides of Rue de la Plage are very narrow.
This is a unique place to stay if you want authentic Old World Charm in Tangier.
Mini Calpe is within walking distance to the Port de Tanger Ville, Médina, the Marshan, the Kasbah, Petit Socco, Grand Socco and Tanja Marina Bay. You are also within walking distance of many shops, cafés and restaurants downtown, or you can get a petit taxi just one hundred feet away.
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