XOPP by Golden Century (金唐XOPP) — Restaurant in Sydney

Keen to get a look at Sydney’s latest eating precinct, Darling Square, I booked a table at XOPP. At just two weeks of age, this restaurant is a new entry for the Golden Century Group, which was established by Eric and Linda Wong thirty years ago. XOPP is in the hands of their son, Billy Wong, though Mum’s here on the floor talking up his achievements and dazzling guests with her eye-catching footwear and bubbly personality. You’ll find the restaurant wrapped around the mezzanine level of the Darling Exchange. Bound in kilometres of recycled timber, this beautiful six-storey building is designed by Japanese architect, Kengo Kuma. It’s part of the NSW Government’s $3.4 billion-dollar splurge on Darling Harbour and is set to house a new, high-tech library that will open in October.

On the ground floor, Maker’s Dozen is already up and running, setting the benchmark for food courts with stylish design and a shared airspace with XOPP. The adjoining air shaft is populated by a permanent, dangling art piece by Nike Savvas that looks like a whirlwind of colourful confetti.

With this artistic centrepiece, and so much going on architecturally on the other side of the curved glass windows, the XOPP team have sensibly opted for a toned-down, lounge-room feel. Woven flooring, leather banquettes and neutrally toned chairs keep things casual, with a spark of interest overhead with floral fabric light boxes and dangling fake plants. Dark tables and low light are broken up by jade green crockery and fluoro orange wine lists, chopsticks and water glasses, signalling towards a contemporary reinterpretation of Cantonese.

Seared Scallops ($24) give you a modern mash-up of chilli, garlic puree, ham and prawn floss on a perfectly cooked shellfish delivery vehicle. They’re salty from the ham, and fruity from the bell pepper-like chilli, but a bit lacking on savoury middle for me. They arrive hot on the heels of our 2017 Picardy Chardonnay ($89) drawn from Pemberton in Western Australia. Plucked from a thirteen-page list, it’s a cracking Chardy with great intensity and a strong slate mineral line sitting over stone fruit, white pepper and a tickle of butter. While it’s very early days, getting good wine service did prove difficult.

With the restaurant’s very name being a play upon stir-fried Pipis in XO Sauce ($46/500g) it’d be wrong not to order them. We opt for the Chinese Doughnut ($10) add-on and are pleased to find our beautifully cooked, fleshy clams are accompanied by a vat of XO sauce for doughnut dipping. The XO sauce is so beautifully balanced and punchy, it’s almost more exciting than eating the clams themselves!

In a gonzo mix of rendered and tendered pork cheek and fermented Malay prawn paste, Stir Fried Brussels Sprouts ($24) are seriously misnamed as a vegetable side. They’re a celebration of crisp sprout and tender pig that had me reaching for a doughnut to make sure nothing was left behind. They nudged out Japanese Wasabi Beef ($36), which has been a Golden Century staple for at least ten years for very good reason. The steak is so tender, and the saucing is so full of nostril-flaring wasabi vigour, it eats beautifully over well-separated, Yeung Chow-style Fried Rice ($22).

While there’s no denying XOPP is pricy, the food is on point. If you have the cash to splash, you can order with impunity, secure in the knowledge that they’re not too fancy to put your leftovers in a plastic container to take away with you. While I probably could have done without the dishes being scraped and stacked at the table by staff who teeter between tentative and incompetent, they had a sweetness and enthusiasm about them that makes me believe they just want for finessing that will...

A Glimpse of Luxury with Familiar Flavors

Rating: ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

XOPP is a restaurant that brings a touch of luxury and elegance to Sydney's dining scene, offering a familiar taste of the acclaimed Golden Century with a refined twist. While it may come at a slightly higher price point, the overall experience at XOPP is undeniably good, with exceptional dishes and a sophisticated ambiance.

One of the highlights of XOPP is the menu, which features a range of Cantonese dishes that pay homage to the beloved classics of Golden Century. The flavors are rich and authentic, showcasing the expertise of the chefs in crafting traditional Cantonese cuisine. From succulent seafood to flavorful roasted meats and delectable dim sum, each dish is executed with precision and finesse.

The ambiance at XOPP is elegant and upscale, creating an atmosphere that is perfect for special occasions or intimate gatherings. The sleek and modern design, combined with attentive service, adds an extra touch of sophistication to the overall dining experience. The staff is knowledgeable and accommodating, ensuring that guests feel well taken care of throughout their visit.

While the quality of the food and service at XOPP is commendable, it is worth noting that the prices can be on the higher side compared to its sister restaurant, Golden Century. Some diners may feel that the elevated price point is not entirely justified, considering the similarities in flavors and dishes. However, for those seeking a more refined and upscale dining experience, XOPP delivers on its promise of luxury and quality.

In summary, XOPP offers a taste of luxury and refinement with its Cantonese cuisine, drawing inspiration from the renowned Golden Century. While the prices may be slightly inflated compared to its sister restaurant, the overall experience at XOPP is undeniably good, with exceptional dishes and a sophisticated ambiance. It is a great option for those looking to indulge in a refined Cantonese dining experience in Sydney.

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For special occasions growing up, my family never knew anything outside of Cantonese seafood restaurant dining. Maybe the odd pub steak here and there if that counts, but every time there'd be something to celebrate and if my 'rents had enough dough for it, we'd hit up the local seafood restaurant and Dad would order ginger shallot lobster or mudcrab, a whole steamed fish and XO pipis. I loved me them XO pipis man. XO sauce is a Hong Kong fare made from reducing down dried shrimp, dried scallops, chilli and more, and when combined with fresh seafood it's a formula for a good time. Stir-fried with pipis, it makes a sensational gravy. I'd always be the greedy little bugger taking a larger cut of the crispy fried vermicelli underneath it all. The way the crispy noodles catches up the sauce.. oh you glorious thing! I didn't realise XO pipis were an Australian-born dish until I sat down oversea and didn't see it on the restaurant menus over there. Hang on... what? XO pipis aren't worldwide? Turns out our beloved pipis only inhabit the beach coastlines of Southern and Eastern Australia. That's SA, NSW and lower QLD. You can also find them in New Zealand. My first time seeing them outside of a fish market was on a beach called Seven Mile down near Berry, South of Sydney. Dad used to take us there when we were kids, and one day he picked one up out of the sand to show us. "This one yummy!" The more I read up on XO pipis, the more I believe in the magic of our local cuisine. Who said Australia doesn't have a cuisine? Show 'em a steaming hot plate of XO pipis. This is us. This is the result of mixing the flavours of our migrant community with local produce. I believe the first to do it was a chef at Golden Century in Sydney. That's what my uncle tells me anyway. It was a sad day hearing of the GC's closure during lockdown, but the legend lives on at aptly named XOPP in Darling Square, run by the Golden Century family. As with the other dishes pictured, you can find XO pipis on many Cantonese seafood restaurant menus these days and they're all pretty damn good at it. Tell you what though, XOPP cooks their signature pipi dish to absolute...