Le Quatrième Mur
Le Quatrième Mur things to do, attractions, restaurants, events info and trip planning
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Phillippe Etchebetch. Lorsque l’on veut donner des leçons aux restaurants de la France entière, il faut pouvoir, en contrepartie, être capable de se regarder dans une glace sans sourciller en tenant le regard avec confiance et assurance. Et il est certain que ce que vous renvoie ce miroir est l’image d’un grand professionnel de cuisine qui sait manier les goûts et les saveurs d’une main de maître tout en jonglant habilement avec les produits de saisons tel un artiste du cirque des papilles. Au travers de cette critique, je rends hommage au grand et talentueux cuisinier de renom, mais aussi à l’adepte de boxe que vous êtes en ponctuant mes propos de métaphores sur le thème de votre sport favori. Entrée : 🦐🍑🌾🧀 Carpaccio de crevettes, salade de blé et fromage/abricot, bouillon de crustacés rafraîchi. Comme disait le grand Mohamed Ali, “je vole comme un papillon, pique comme une abeille […]”. Cette citation représente à la perfection cette mise en bouche délectable. Laissez moi développer mon propos : L’acidité de l’abricot, ayant enfilé sa ceinture de championne du monde des abeilles se confronte avec véhémence à la douceur du fromage dans son costume ailé de papillon sur le ring de blé, sous le regard discret mais attentif et délicieux de la crevette qui a pris le rôle d’arbitre. Ding ding ding 🔔 ! La cloche retentit. Fin du match. Le verdict des juges est tombé : égalité parfaite. Seul vainqueur : moi. Je remporte la ceinture du plaisir. Et pourtant, ce n’est que le début. Plat : 🐟🥔🥬 Filet de lieu jaune farci aux épinards, pommes Darphin et salpicon rhubarbe/radis, jus aillé aux fanes de radis. Attention ⚠️ Deux nouveaux opposants font leur entrée sur le ring culinaire : à gauche de l’assiette, fourré de sa crème d’épinard onctueuse, le lieu se dresse fièrement, prêt à en découdre avec son adversaire du jour, j’ai nommé le mariage pommes Darphin/Salpicon rhubarbe, vêtu de sa somptueuse robe de fanes de radis. Le combat est merveilleux et plein de tendresse. L’onctuosité et la saveur délicate du lieu assène un crochet dévastateur aux amants qui répondent judicieusement à l’assaut avec un coup texturé, croquant et fondant la fois. La foule de papille est en délire 👯 et le jus aillé au radis viens mettre d’accord les deux combattants qui se quittent bons amis. Bientôt, le Mike Tyson des desserts vient se presenter. Dessert : 🍫🥥🍋🟩 Finger chocolat Ariaga, chantilly coco, sablé et praliné cacao, sauce citron vert. Tel le boxeur susnommé à son apogée il allie tous les éléments faisant de lui le combatant parfait : la puissance du chocolat mélangé à la subtilité technique de la chantilly coco. La consistance du sablé et du praliné qui vient garantir des appuis solides et la hargne du citron vert qui viendra mettre un KO au premier round à vos sens. Mince. Je n’avais décidément aucune chance face à un tel prodige de la cuisine gastronomique ! Je m’avoue vaincu, le niveau présenté est astronomique. Philippe Etchebetch est incroyable, merveilleux, grandiose ! Et que dire du service ? Que ce soit dans la fluidité ou la présentation des plats, ils valaient bien le très généreux pourboire que j’ai gracieusement laissé afin d’encourager ce genre d’établissement à prospérer. Le combat est terminé mais je reviendrai, avec grand plaisir, goûter les délices du Maître Etchebetch. Longue vie à la gastronomie française. Longue vie au quatrième mur. RB, critique culinaire indépendant. Mention spéciale : les croûtons ainsi que le houmous étaient magiques, tout comme les cocktails et l’eau plate. J’ai aussi apprécié la technique de ramassage de miettes proposée par les différents serveurs/serveuses.
Rémy BissieresRémy Bissieres
10
Food was excellent, beautiful interior but service was not on the same level. The food was truly exceptional. All six dishes were beautifully presented and bursting with flavor. The ambiance itself was really nice. Unfortunately, the service fell a bit short of the overall experience. Our initial waiter seemed inattentive, focusing on other tables and tasks rather than our needs. Waiter provided detailed explanations entirely in French when bringing dessert, which we don’t understand. Though it provided a humorous moment, it ultimately made communication challenging. Finally, another waiter seemed rushed and spilled sauce on one our plates quite hastily. While these mishaps didn't detract from the quality of the food, they did temper the overall experience. But definitely recommended.
StaneCStaneC
10
I told our waiter I would not leave a review, but I must warn others to stay away from tourist trap “La Table d’Hôtes”. I anticipate they will reply to this as they do to other negative reviews by placing the blame on one’s expectations with no accountability or offer to make anything better. There's no room to complain in the experience because you are sitting with ten strangers; we didn't want to ruin anyone's evening by being upset in front of them or abruptly leaving; I waited to complain until we were paying. The waiter did not apologize. My husband and I live in the San Francisco area and have eaten at many Michelin and fine dining establishments, both in the US and abroad. I speak and understand some French, my husband does not, but I do not think that being fluent would have changed our poor experience. First of all, I wish to be quite clear that this review is about the high-end La Table d’Hôtes, and not the brasserie upstairs. These restaurants being combined here is misleading. When we arrived, the host confused our reservation and sat us at the brasserie, where we sat for awhile, unattended, before someone else came to our table, informed us a mistake had been made, and that we were supposed to be downstairs. Our waiter had an unkempt appearance, with a wrinkled uniform and a gaudy name tag that seemed all very casual for a meal that would ultimately top 500€ for us. The sommelier, in an equally unkempt polo and name tag (similar to McDonalds uniforms) who could not pour a pairing-size pour consistently all night with very little understanding of basic wine service etiquette, glasses on people’s lefts, rights, and not even all pre-set at the table when we sat down. There was a miscommunication and she thought my husband and I were sharing the pairing, which was corrected when she came back and gave my husband and I comically large pours. She proceeded to give us both extra booze all night because I think she wanted to get us drunk and thought we were uncultured Americans. The pairing (75€ pp) featured the cheapest wines from top producers. It featured entirely white wines, with the exception of one red, which was a disappointment. After the unimaginative appetizer of bread and butter, we were put on a video conference with Etchebest after watching a short, trailer for the restaurant. It was a strange, reality TV show experience. The first course was where my path began to diverge due to my allergies, which - to the restaurant’s credit - were handled well. My husband was presented with a fried oyster, and a mollusk paste that resembled imitation crab. I got a burnt piece of root vegetable with a horrible combination of flavors in a foam. We ate, hoping it could get better. Then, a tepid and salty mushroom soup. Next, a small slice of tasteless foie gras enveloped in a brioche covering with a passion fruit sauce. It looked nothing like a recent picture of this dish that the restaurant posted on social media. The fourth course was another diversion for me; I received two large pieces of a veal chop that were out of proportion with the fish that was presented to the other guests. My veal was cold, tough and dry. My husband’s fish was unseasoned and accompanied by inedible mussels that most people pushed around their plates. The final main course was duck à l’orange, which may have been the only dish I may describe from our experience as tasty. The two dessert courses were simply bad. A salted crumble with olives and chocolate mousse, accompanied by what I can only describe as a martini slushie. Then the final straw was a rancid burrata served with rocket and underripe strawberries. Dining near the kitchen was noisy and underwhelming. I pity these young chefs who think they are achieving something by working under this self-important little man Etchebest. The scratched Christofle silverware was a gimmick. It certainly was a night at the opera, where one watched the performance of a dining establishment crash the lowest expectations. I'm embarrassed of our waste of time and money.
Chloe TulaChloe Tula
80
Middle Class Michelin star! Pretty good food. I would not call it Michelin star though. Worst service. Where do I start. The menu is pretty fixed with only 2 options per section (appetizer, main, and dessert). Fine, I made my selections and waited for the courses. My wife liked the mushroom ravioli and my egg was pretty good and creative. Those 2 courses were good, but you are in the middle of Bordeaux and pretty much running a cruise ship scalable dinner. Ordered a gin and tonic and I think and airline could have made a better one. I tried to add lemon but it was just awful. when I told them it was bad and asked if I could just exchange for wine, I was told no because I already took a drink from it. Ummmm....thats how I figured out it tastes amateur hour in the first place. I set it on the table next to us to make it clear it was disgusting. Maybe G&T is not a French thing, We also ordered 1 red and 1 white wine for the main course. They poured the white, but never bothered with the red. I finished my main course without it. Meanwhile we are watching staff serve dessert to everyone but us. It becomes pretty clear something is wrong with the table because we are the last ones literally sitting in the restaurant...still no red wine. So I ask for it. Roughly 30 minutes passed, still no dessert. The waitress apologized and informed us of a technical glitch in the kitchen (not my problem). What I don't understand is how you can screw this up with only 2 menu options. So we gave up on waiting for dessert and just decided to pay the bill without it. In the end they took a few items off of the bill and apologized but I never had a manager come out to apologize which I would have expected from a restaurant that pretends to be of higher caliber. I regret my decision to reserve a table here as my time is valuable. The reservation process is a bit pretentious as well. And the lack of dessert is just the cherry on top. We just went back to our hotel room and ordered a dessert there. It was very "strange" my hotel managed to deliver the food to my room in under 5 minutes. Truly, the manager and half of the staff are not trained to work in a place that represents itself like this. I truly wish I would have picked something else for my last day in the city and I hope you don't waste your time here either.
ChrisChris
50
Overall very disappointing I had the Mackerel to start, the Tuna for main, and the cheesecake for dessert. (At the time of ordering I didn't know what I wanted for dessert, but was told that the system does not allow orders to be placed unless all three courses are selected. I therefore took the cheesecake recommendation). Starter: Mackerel Good aesthetic Chewy / tough skin, the knife wouldn't cut through it Texture generally not good, including accompaniments, very tough elements Fish itself was slightly under cooked Main: Tuna (photo attached) Overcooked The accompaniments were very acidic, leaving a bad aftertaste. It all felt a little rushed, without being properly checked, the presentation wasn't great in my opinion. Dessert: cheesecake Fine, nothing special Wine: I asked the sommelier for wine pairing, all the selections were excellent and I'd highly recommend doing this if you do visit. Service: I counted five waiters for over 90 guests, that's almost a one in twenty ratio. The waiters were rushed and frankly appeared a little stressed. They were young and clearly inexperienced. Despite this they were very polite, and I'd add that they were all smartly dressed. Overall I got the impression of an understaffed establishment, both front and back of house. My total was €87...for an extra €30 you could go to far better restaurants in the city. I will not be visiting again.
RhysRhys
10
Le Quatrième Mur I’m a bit disappointed in the place. It’s not catastrophic, but when you have Philippe Estebech's in the kitchen, you expect a little bit more and even if it’s a brasserie. The restaurant setting is nice and pretty. I had a table next to a wall on the terrace which hides the view from the square, Place de la comédie. They seated me there because I was alone, maybe. The waiter was very nice and polite. I even left a tip. I didn’t like the « choose your wine on a tablet » concept. I found it tacky, but maybe I’m a bit old fashioned. Nevertheless, the wine advice was fine. I enjoyed it. Now for the most important part, food. One of the main pride of a French brasserie is usually there steak tartare « au couteau ». So I got to taste it here. This was my first disappointment. Nice plating, but the steak lacked seasoning. It was flat. The homemade ketchup was nice and the aubergine as well. For the main course, I decided to go with the fish of the day : A yellow pollack filet. I like this fish. It was cooked perfectly ! Pomme de terre dauphine and the ketchup (again) were nice, but the purée of lentils was tasteless. I couldn’t recognize the lentils taste. The eclair for dessert was ok. I gave my comments to the waiter who was again very polite and said that he’d pass them to the chef. I might return some other time to give it another try.
Elias Abou HaydarElias Abou Haydar
20
Nearby Attractions Of Le Quatrième Mur
Place de la Bourse
Miroir d'eau
El Espejo de Agua
Fnac
Cathédrale Saint-André de Bordeaux
Jardin Public
Mériadeck
Librairie Mollat
Promenade Sainte Catherine
Monument aux Girondins

Place de la Bourse
4.6
(7.2K)Click for details

Miroir d'eau
4.5
(6.4K)Click for details

El Espejo de Agua
4.5
(5.8K)Click for details

Fnac
4.1
(5.8K)Click for details
Nearby Restaurants Of Le Quatrième Mur
Palatino
L'Entrecôte
Brasserie Bordelaise
Tigermilk Bordeaux
French House
Fufu Ramen
Monzù Grands Hommes
Matsuri Bordeaux
Nom d'Une Crêpe
Osteria Pizzeria da Bartolo

Palatino
4.9
(7.4K)Click for details

L'Entrecôte
4.4
(3.2K)Click for details

Brasserie Bordelaise
4.2
(2.3K)$$
Click for details

Tigermilk Bordeaux
4.8
(1.6K)Click for details
Basic Info
Address
Opéra National de Bordeaux - Grand-Théâtre, 2 Pl. de la Comédie, 33000 Bordeaux, France
Map
Phone
+33 5 56 02 49 70
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Website
quatrieme-mur.com
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Reviews
Overview
4.4
(3.3K reviews)$$
Ratings & Description
Description
Seasonal fine dining served in a refined, airy space inside the Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux.
attractions: Place de la Bourse, Miroir d'eau, El Espejo de Agua, Fnac, Cathédrale Saint-André de Bordeaux, Jardin Public, Mériadeck, Librairie Mollat, Promenade Sainte Catherine, Monument aux Girondins, restaurants: Palatino, L'Entrecôte, Brasserie Bordelaise, Tigermilk Bordeaux, French House, Fufu Ramen, Monzù Grands Hommes, Matsuri Bordeaux, Nom d'Une Crêpe, Osteria Pizzeria da Bartolo

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