Penati al Baretto — Restaurant in Paris

Amasterpiece of Italian literature was published in 1528. This book by the courtier, poet, diplomat, soldier and yet humanist Baldassare Castiglione was a considerable success all over Europe. Far from being a manual of intrigue and pretenses, this “Courtier” embodies all the qualities of the Renaissance, demanding individual and social rights, brilliantly uniting the chivalric ideal of the Middle Ages and the ideal of cultural humanism.

In this book, this great exponent of social decency advances the idea that courtesy can be truly perfect only if we have a sense of grace, and that perfection in refinement can only be achieved and perceived thanks to a certain style. In all, said the Mantuan poet, one must exercise a certain sprezzatura that conceals art and shows that what one does and says comes easily, almost without thinking.

This studied nonchalance, coupled with feigned indifference, intended to hint at a much greater merit than what we are willing to show still retains all its charms.

These days, this enviable sprezzatura affects musicians and athletes, dresses actors, inspires writers and captivates politicians. More rarely, this subtle sense of ease and tradition hides the effort in the background, bribing cooks.

Yet there is a place inhabited by this singular style, described by Holy Roman Emperor Charles V’s court writer. It’s Penati al Baretto, a restaurant now famous, on rue Balzac in Paris.

Originally from Casatenovo in Brianza, north of Milan, Alberico Penati left school at the age of 14 to serve his apprenticeship in a traditional restaurant run by a Venetian family in Lecco.

Like Renaissance artists summoned to the royal courts of Europe—as was Arcimboldo who inspired him—he went from great Italian hotels to French and British luxury hotels.

As a lieutenant of Angelo Paracucchi at the Royal Monceau and at the Troisgros in Roanne he contributed to the success of Harry’s Bar and Annabel’s Mark Birley in London for over two decades, then with Robin Birley—the son of Mark—he participated in the opening of the famous club “5 Herford Street” in London, the Mecca of British high society and aristocracy.

In the restaurant on rue Balzac, opened with Venetian businessman Pier Silli, deliciously nonchalant harmony is reflected in everything. The order and the geometry of the decor, tempered by pictures of Italian realist cinema stars from Massimo Gargia’s collection, the solar elegance of Francesca Gillio, the other elegance of the cheerful virtuoso sommelier Massimo Tacono, the propriety of restaurant manager Philippe Landat and his employees, and of course the cuisine, as earthly as it is spiritual. The salade de Puntarelle à la romaine, the Tuscan saffron risotto, the Sicilian Setaro spaghetti with sardines, the basil and “Gerardo di Nola” tomato pacherri Kamut Verrigni, the “Cremona” pumpkin ravioli, and to finish up, a “Strega Alberti” baba rum liqueur like in Benevento, these are the things that he served for my enjoyment. The homage to Bacchus was given with “Le Baretto” an apéritif made from white Martini and Amaretto di Saronno, as well as two excellent Chianti wines.

The true essence of seduction is the feeling that despite the intense pleasure of an experience, a deep mystery remains, a hidden greatness, that we look forward to like this indescribable sprezzatura, to...

This restaurant showed how good customer service can go a long way. After we ordered the lunch menu, the waiters gave us so many extra appetizers, such as parm, all kinds of bread, gordal (?) olives, arancinis, and more. I really appreciated them offering so much before the actual appetizer I ordered arrived. The appetizers were delicious, fresh, and very generous. We ordered the mozzarella di bufala and a parmigiana eggplant. I especially loved the eggplant! For the entrees, we ordered tortelli with mushroom cream and the veal escalope Milanese Style, Potatoes and Zucchini. I wasn’t a huge fan of the entrees. I couldn’t taste the mushroom sauce, and the veal was ok. But I’ll have to come back for their regular pasta entrees! They seemed exquisite and generous. As for desserts, the panna cotta we ordered had a layer of berry jam which I didn’t like that much because it tasted a bit too artificial. However, the gelato with the espresso poured on top was sooo fresh and perfect to end the meal.

I loved the service, and it wasn’t loud at all. Very easy to maintain a conversation without having to shout nor lean forward to listen closely. The atmosphere was...

Awful. Will lose their star any day now. Really nasty food, improperly cooked an at unbelievable ripoff prices, even for paris. Miserable staff, except one who was great.

30-40 Euros for a few leaves with shaved parmesan and a really disgusting dressing. A poached egg and snails eggs don't help. Fortunately, they changed it for me without question (they probably knew it was nasty). It was replaced with some courgette fritters which were great.

We ordered a 98 euro roast baby lamb leg to share. I explicitly asked for it pink, it was overdone. Pleasant enough for your mom's sunday roast, but no levels of flavour as I would expect from this level. Sub average, and uninteresting.

There was a pork and cheese fritter amuse-bouch which was fantastic, but most of what we had was pretty bad, and we got fleeced nearly 400Euros for two. I could have gone to the Fat Duck in Bray and never left England.

Michelin, please revisit this restaurant and re-evaluate their start - so they can stop ripping...