LOUMI — Restaurant in Berlin

We had a memorable evening at Loumi, with some excellent highlights alongside areas that could be improved.

Several dishes really impressed us: the squid with piment d’espelette and XO was bold and offered perfectly contrasting textures and flavors; the quail with cep, pancetta and brioche stood out as the most satisfying course; and the citrusy pre-dessert (sudachi sherbet with lemon verbena and almond) was bright and refreshing. Sitting at the counter also made for a lovely atmosphere and view of the kitchen. Henry was a fantastic host: attentive, warm, and clearly passionate about the wines, which were beautifully chosen.

The pacing, however, felt too drawn out at times - nearly 4.5 hours in total, with long gaps between some of the main dishes. Portions were very small, so our feeling of hunger only really subsided once the quail dish and brioche accompaniment arrived around 22:30 (and even after having pre-oysters). Some courses also lacked balance: the delicate kinmedai bream was overwhelmed by its vin jaune broth, and the final desserts didn’t quite live up to the expectations.

What surprised us was the absence of any extras or “gestures” one usually expects at this level: no amuse-bouche, no bread, no intermezzo, no petit fours. That’s fine in principle, but combined with the pacing and portion size, it left the overall experience feeling sparse.

And although we had flagged food intolerances by email, this wasn’t acknowledged during the evening. Even just a brief word up front would have been appreciated.

Overall, Loumi shows real talent and creativity, with standout dishes and excellent wines, but a few adjustments to pacing, portioning and communication would make the experience...

Noise is always louder in small spaces - the same goes for positive vibes, laughter and kindness, all of which I encountered during my visit to Loumi.

I was dining alone, hiding behind my book and pseudonym, yet they still managed to make me feel entertained without being intrusive. (I have to admit, at one point I wanted to get up and sing along with the Backstreet Boys just like the restaurant manager, but I didn't have the courage. 😃)

This warm hospitality extended not only from the front-of-house team but also from the chefs. (I guess, in their case, the additional surprise effect made the biggest difference: since chefs are typically reserved, they tend to feel awkward when engaging with guests, lacking the usual comfort of their protective barriers like walls, doors, windows, or just some plain old distance. 😄 But not at Loumi.)

The food was minimalistic and extremely delicious, focusing on seasonal ingredients rather than regional ones. It presented a harmonious blend of classic French cuisine with numerous international influences; ensuring the highest quality yet served in a casual, simplistic style. Me personally, I really enjoyed the pleasant spiciness of certain components. Sadly, nowadays I don't have the feeling that enough chefs dare to use spicy ingredients. (Unless they're Tim Raue, of course... 🤪) The dishware also added a beautiful touch, unexpectedly elevating the already perfect experience.

If you're looking for something pure, excellent and heartfelt, this is the...

Really wanted to give this higher rating but felt as if the menu was very one note with high acidic notes throughout. Would have loved a bit more salt/fat/savory flavors throughout the meal. I understand the fermented techniques throughout but felt as if it wasn’t balanced with the other flavors as well as it could be.

That being said presentation and quality of products was great, execution of techniques was nice, but would have loved to see more leaning into bolder flavors to balance out the acidity of the entire meal. Also two sorbet dishes for dessert was odd and felt a bit disconnected with the story of the meal but tasty.

The repeated use of foam techniques told me this was catered to an older clientele and would have loved to see a bit more minimalistic and bold plating.

I see a lot of older customer base here on the night I went so I assume it’s targeting a specific palette and eye.

I would highly suggest a cooling vent/fan in summer months as it was incredibly hot.

Overall beautiful presentation and aesthetics, but in my opinion lacking in concept and overuse of foam techniques and high use of acidic notes which will not work well for more contemporary palette.

3/5 style and aesthetic over taste and thoughtful execution of...