Lawry's Akasaka – Identity Confusion
Walking into Lawry’s felt a little shameful. As an American, I hesitated to indulge in this stateside staple while in one of the world’s most exciting food cities. But after a long workday adapting to local norms, the allure of comfort was irresistible. Unfortunately, comfort never came.
The experience begins with yellow flag—literally and metaphorically. A wrinkled piece of paper informs diners about the seasonal PJ champagne, offered by glass or bottle. During my two-hour visit, not a single soul touched it. A corporate upsell, awkwardly out of place in a venue striving for upscale credibility.
Lawry's aims to replicate the San Francisco House of Prime Rib's legacy, draped in fancy service and grand decor. Yet, the execution was a letdown. The spinning salad, a signature flourish, arrived limp and lifeless. The dressing was whisper-thin, and their famed seasoned pepper became a crutch rather than an enhancement. In a country that perfects the art of crisp, fresh greens in your local Family Mart—this was baffling.
The mac and cheese fared no better. Served lava-hot, the pasta was obliterated into mush, the truffled béchamel a weak attempt to mask a lack of actual cheese flavor. It was as if the dish existed solely to showcase their branded seasoned salts, which it required.
Then came the salmon. A little too dry, cooked a little too tough, a little too salty, and an inediblly thick-skin that comes when you do all three, it felt like a reheated banquet hall entree. A huge cross-section of overcooked fish steak that no fish-ordering, much less Japanese, customer would ever need. In Japan, where fish is practically a national art form, this offering was an affront.
The service was attentive, and the decor undeniably elegant. But beneath the surface, Lawry’s seemed trapped—unsure just how much it had to obey its corporate American roots to avoid alienating guests to the local US embassy, but also stay sufficiently competitive for a discerning Japanese customer with plenty of other options. Either way would have been fine - but neither was the path they chose.
For a restaurant in one of the world’s most competitive dining scenes, Lawry’s in Tokyo felt hollow. It’s a steakhouse caught between its corporate mandates to hawk high-margin champagne and grocery-store seasoning blends, and its obligation to deliver the dining experience its location demands.
A disappointing meal, but an enlightening look at what happens when identity is lost in...
Read moreTokyo is blessed with so many good restaurants and one could spend a lifetime there and never revisit one that you had tried but this restaurant would be worth a second visit. Due to circumstances beyond my control, I found myself alone on my 63rd birthday and I decided to treat myself to a really good meal. Lowrys did not disappoint.
I treated myself to a good-sized cut of prime rib and a bottle of a California red. I was not aware of this but you can take an unfinished bottle home with you. The meat was excellent: succulent, perfectly cooked, and delicious. The service was very good and all of the staff were very helpful and friendly. Efficient is an understatement. They were really good and unobtrusive. In particular, I really appreciate how helpful George Kwaku Amoah was. He went to great lengths to make me feel comfortable. Thank you George for your kindness.
I don't often think much about the decor but this place was quite attractive with good acoustics, high ceilings, and great lighting. It added to my enjoyment. I highly recommend...
Read moreVisited Lawry's Akasaka for a late lunch. I used to love visiting Lawry's - I had been taking my clients for lunch/dinner here. However, I returned to the Akasaka branch after 4 years and they seemed to have changed.
Positives: The Prime Rib tasted excellent, as expected. The carver was superb and attentive, checking on the meat doneness.
Negatives: Seating was in an unpleasant area near service carts and used dishes, creating a chaotic, un-premium atmosphere. Overall service felt rushed (e.g., plate clearing while edible meat remained). Compared to the high price (over ¥10,000 per person), the quality of service felt low.
This left me with the impression that the Ebisu branch must offer better service. Consequently, based on this visit, I don't think I will be returning to the Akasaka branch, especially for lunch. Furthermore, I would consider this place unsuitable for business meetings or entertaining...
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