Esters — Restaurant in London

Let's start with a definition taken from Wikipedia:

Hospitality is the relationship between a guest and a host, wherein the host receives the guest with goodwill, including the reception and entertainment of guests, visitors, or strangers

Excited for my 1st visit at one of my neighborhood hot spots for brunch (4.6 avg score out of 239 reviews), I instead find myself here writing a review about Ester's (lack of) hospitality in its true meaning as I didn't even manage to try the food nor drink one of their coffees. Entered the premises at 14:57 and was immediately seated by one of their staff members at a table but no menu was given (error number 1). I said I'd sit down and check the menu while waiting for my friend, only a few mins away. At 15:03 I asked for menus and the waiter said: "Oh sorry, the kitchen closes at 15:00h...my apologies for not saying that when I gave you the table" (error number 2).I rapidly digested the info and approached the same waiter, who seemed completely relaxed about the whole situation, making my point that I actually entered the premises before 15:00h and was seated immediately without being notified about the kitchen being already shut (a very odd decision by the waiter, to say the least). I also made him politely notice that it was 3' past 15:00h and that, presumably, in the kitchen there was a staff made of skillful humans with vested interests in this successful business (not machines programmed to drop their pans at 15:00h sharp), hinting at the fact that "perhaps" an exception to the militaristic rules that often affect London's restaurants, could be made had he tried to check with them. Worst thing that could have happened was the chef's deciding it was too late for him/her. The waiter did not even try.Not that I deserved an exception for being special or anything, but rather using my common sense originated from my childhood growing up in a family-owned restaurant business in Italy, late (not ridiculously late) customer always means: (1) additional business for the restaurant and (2) most certainly a happy or very happy customer leaving grateful for being served. At Esters, it seems business is already too good to make any exceptions but what is certainly not good is (1) inviting me to seat and telling me later "sorry, the kitchen is closed" while the chef is out at the bar exchanging jokes with the staff and (2) not expressing (or even pretending it) some sort of apology when I left the premises (error number 3).Result of the whole story: a "could have been" customer leaving empty handed but certainly not keen in coming back to Esters, a missed opportunity to add 40/50£ to the daily income (Esters does not need that, we know) and a negative review. Only because a waiter and customer had a different view on what "closing time" means or, in reality, a completely opposite view on what being in the Hospitality business...

The definition of a gem. This is is one of the best breakfasts to be found, full stop. I’ve travelled a lot and am an unapologetic millennial hipster, which means I’ve eaten a lot of brunch and drunk a lot of specialty coffee. Esters, being quite their own thing, as evidenced by the deliberate absence of avocado toast on the menu, might cringe at being included in that sentence; nevertheless, my data pool is sound.

The star of the show here is the creative excellence in the cooking. The coffee (Hasbean) is brilliant, but the food is incredible and unique. The weekend specials are a must. A passion for flavour; local, seasonal provenance; and keeping things in-house (eg their housemade baps, not to mention their amazing bakes) shines throughout.

Having lived in the neighbourhood, I could never understand why a block away on Church Street, people were queuing and waiting ages for their breakfast choices, when Esters was around the corner with far less of a queue. (This is also why I find the less-than-five-stars reviews here baffling when they’re about the wait or the queue...as that’s par-for-the-course with any good place in Hackney!) But hey, if you’re keeping my queue down, go for your life!

If you do have to queue (and it’s worth it), you could try my husband’s method: he gets one of their housemade sausage rolls or ginger rye prune cakes to tide him over while he waits. Even if the wait is short (it usually is), you’ll still find yourself with room for the main affair. However, I will say there’s been loads of times when we haven’t had to queue at all - plus the Click and Collect option is brilliant.

Finally, the service: the staff at Esters are absolutely lovely. Many have been there for the years I’ve been coming to Esters, and they’re warm...

TL;DR This place is awesome and people are insane.

UPDATE 11/09/2019 "The menu is typical for an upmarket brunch place." - Henry Beach

Henry, Henry, Henry. Typical where? Outer space? The fantasy kingdom of Beachington? You gave it FOUR STARS. How can four stars = typical? I could cry. I AM crying.

UPDATE OVER

Just when I think I can't possibly be surprised any more by what people think, I wander into the comments for one of my favourite places in London and... well.

I had no idea royalty dined among us.

Esters is doing things with food no one else in London is doing, for a price no one else in London could do it for, and they have to put up with this?

"Seriously good food, but at that price they could be a bit more generous with the bread." Uhm. Ok. I've thought a lot of things while enjoying a meal but 'needs more bread' has never been one of them.

"I find that this cafe does the best brunch in London, the food is exceptional as are the coffees and the customer service has always been excellent." - this person gave it TWO STARS. Jesus wept.

So what do you get when you come to Esters? Refinement. Invention. Flavours bursting in all kinds of unexpected and delightful ways. And damn fine coffee.

The staff is incredibly friendly if you speak to them like people and not like, uhm, staff.

The wait is long because it is popular, and it is popular because it is good. So many people seem baffled by this basic math. And then take to Google to tell us all about it. Is it any wonder so many places in London close down? How can you win with a clientele that wants food CHEAP and AMAZING and INSTANTANEOUSLY and served by their BEST FRIEND.

Esters is awesome and deserve...