Gatlin's BBQ — Restaurant in Houston

Review: Gatlin’s BBQ – A Fortunate Wrong Turn

I made a wrong turn yesterday and ended up near Gatlin’s around lunchtime. My friend Kim has sung Gatlin’s praises more than once, and finding myself in the neighborhood, I figured it was time to find out what all the fuss was about. Let me summarize my experience in one sentence:

It was the best barbecue I’ve had in a very long time—including my own, dammit.

Wanting to try a bit of everything, I ordered enough for four people and am still working my way through a glorious rack of spare ribs, a pound of brisket (half moist, half lean), and some cheddar jalapeño sausage. Here’s the breakdown:

The Sausage: The casing had that perfect snap—crisp without being chewy. The grind and meat composition were spot on, with not a speck of gristle (which is rare these days). The pork and spices came through clearly, with the jalapeño adding a gentle kick instead of overpowering the flavor. Now, I’m usually not a fan of cheese in my sausage and would love a jalapeño-only option, but I’ve got to say—the cheddar worked. It was high-quality, creamy, and well-balanced. I didn’t hate it. In fact, I liked it.

The Brisket: Absolutely on point. Classic Texas-style brisket with a bold peppery bark and deep smoky flavor. I would take this over Franklin’s in Austin without hesitation. It was perfectly tender, even the lean slices, and full of rich flavor. My only (minor) critique: it was sliced a little too thin, which made it fall apart more than I prefer. I like a slice that pulls apart cleanly but holds its own on the tray. Yes, I’m nitpicking—but if you know BBQ, you know.

The Ribs (My Personal Benchmark): These are the real deal—meaty, full-sized spare ribs, not dainty baby backs. I’ve had the honor of being on a BBQ team that won Grand Champion in ribs at the Houston Rodeo Cook-Off two years running, so I don’t say this lightly: these ribs were competition-level. The rub was just right—simple, balanced, and not competing with the smoke or the meat itself. I ate so many I’m still full today. My only critique? I’d like just a bit more bite. A rib should pull cleanly off the bone, not fall off it entirely. Again—nitpicking. IYKYK.

Honorable Mention: The Sauce. I usually go without sauce, but I gave this one a fair shot—and I’m glad I did. It’s just about perfect. A balanced blend of spice, tomato, vinegar, and sweetness. Honestly, if I didn’t know better, I’d swear I made it myself. And I might take credit for it the next time I host a...

Our daughter-in-law came with my wife and I to this smoky meat palace and we're sure glad we did! Everything we tried was the best of the best. we got the three meat plate with two sides and got an extra meat. The moist end brisket...the lady that took our order asked me to specify....most places leave it up to you but you have to request it....here they ask up front...love that. The brisket had tons of flavor and almost fall apart tender, in my top 2 or 5 all time, this is the good stuff people. The St. Louis style pork ribs were in the top two....that good. The turkey was in that same stellar class of tastiness. We got a link of their fine traditional sausage which was 5 stars as well. The plate came with 2 small containers of their BBQ sauce, they only do one kind but they do it well.....this 'Q don't need no sauce anyway. The sides were just as amazing as the 'Q. The fried okra being on the menu helped us decide on this awesome joint over another highly rated 'Q place, the okra was 5 stars. Our daughter-in-law loves tater salad and their version hit all our spots....down to the last bite....everything we got disappeared. We'll be back for more with our son. This is a little distance from our house but well worth the drive....road trip!

second visit....This was our second visit and the food was not as awesome as our first. My wife and I shared a three meat plate with two sides. The sliced moist end brisket was just a three star....enough fat but it was dry and too chewy to rate higher, the pulled pork was 5 stars especially to my wife, great taste and tender, the ribs were four stars, great flavor and again a little too dry to make the 5 star cut. The collard greens were just 3 stars, this is a side my wife really likes and she didn't eat much of it. The fried okra was 5 stars, crunchy on the exterior and this disappeared quickly. The Katz iced tea, unsweet for us, hit the spot. It would be nice if they brought back salt and pepper containers for each table instead of a plastic bag of throwdown utensils with little salt n...

Gatlin's BBQ presents a tempting tableau of smoked meats, and the siren call of the three-meat plate proved irresistible. For a modest premium over the two-meat option, the opportunity to sample brisket, ribs, and chicken alongside potato salad and baked beans was too good to pass up. My companion ventured into less-charted territory with the dirty rice and smoked corn.

The service, it must be said, was a masterclass in Southern hospitality. The staff's effervescent warmth could melt the iciest of dispositions, setting a convivial tone for the meal. While the exterior hinted at a bustling establishment, the efficient system of pagers and ample seating, likely bolstered by a robust takeout business, ensured a surprisingly swift transition from arrival to table.

The platter itself was a feast for the eyes, a smoky still life begging to be devoured. My first foray was into the ribs, and they were, without a doubt, the star of the show. Falling off the bone with the slightest provocation, they possessed that elusive balance of smoky depth and tender succulence – a true testament to the pitmaster's art. The lean brisket, generously endowed with bark, delivered on its promise of flavor and tenderness. A slight disappointment, however, came in the form of the white meat chicken, which, while visually appealing, proved drier than desired.

The sides, while perfectly acceptable, lacked a certain je ne sais quoi. They served their purpose without venturing beyond the realm of the familiar, save for the dirty rice, which offered a welcome counterpoint to the richness of the meats.

In summation, Gatlin's BBQ offers a compelling, if not entirely flawless, barbecue experience. The ribs alone are worth the pilgrimage, and the brisket certainly holds its own. While the chicken and sides could benefit from a touch more innovation, the overall quality and exceptional service make Gatlin's a worthy destination for any carnivore. Next on the agenda: a deeper dive into the sausage offerings, and a repeat performance with those...