Lillian — Restaurant in Richmond

EUPHORIC. I left Lillian feeling seriously elated, as though I'd been allowed a visit to another world--one where beauty, artfulness, and an exquisite palate are at the center of its operating principles—offering a first-rate, unique restaurant intentionally designed to create an exceptional experience. No detail of the decor has been left unconsidered: from the chunky slabs of sage green quartz on the long bar to the intimate, low-key lighting that made every dish and glass glow, the space is an inviting field of calm and wonder. If the atmosphere is a field, then the dishes are wildflowers bursting forth in a riot of color, scent, and texture. The roasted oysters are juicy and full of briny sweetness, topped with crunchy, buttery breadcrumbs. Under a spicy powdered topping, the peel-and-eat shrimp are served on a bed of ice, giving them a firm and tasty foundation. The warmed homemade sourdough bread is perfection: crispy on the outside with a tender, spongy inside, served with a splash of butter topped with salt flakes. I felt the Hamachi Crudo’s subtle yet complex amberjack umami all the way down to the soles of my feet. And the desserts! The sourdough ice cream with butterscotch topping sprinkled with cocoa nibs had my husband leaning over the bar gushing praise to its creator, while the velvety chocolate tart topped with toasted shavings of coconut paired with sharp lime zest and caramel was everything I never knew I needed. Plus, a tasty prosecco on tap. Do yourself a favor: take a trip to Lillian, ready to let the chefs guide you through a journey of imagination...

Lillian has one of the best happy-hour deals in town. You can order up to a dozen oysters for $1 each; after that the price jumps to about $3.50-$4 per oyster. Even at full price the quality and freshness are impeccable. They arrive clean on crushed ice with a cucumber mignonette, Crystal hot sauce, and a kombu jam. I would love to see the accompaniments rotate more often; Alewife sets a good local example on that front.

Service is attentive and conversational, and people here are kind. During a period when I was avoiding spice, one server brushed off my request and twice brought dishes with heat despite my double-check. It was frustrating in the moment. The manager and a different server took over and handled it with real aplomb, which went a long way.

The sourdough and butter are delicious, and entrées are strong if on the expensive side. A mortadella sandwich on fresh focaccia was to die for. A soft-shell crab sandwich scratched the itch perfectly, though another crab would have made it sing.

My one ongoing complaint is the cocktail list. For months it has leaned heavily on beer- and tomato-based drinks. Multiple Michelada-style options make the menu feel narrow and polarizing. Earlier cocktails sat around 3.5 out of 5 for me, and I have largely skipped the bar program since the shift toward liquor-beer-clam or tomato juice combinations. Some more classic-leaning, layered builds would be very welcome.

All that said, there is a lot to like at Lillian, especially at happy hour. A beautiful sourdough-and-oyster late lunch for around twenty dollars is...

Our first visit, though we are big fans of its twin, Lost Letter, just down the street.

The somm has a fantastic wine list, and knowing him from LL we just did what we always do and trusted him. He had an off-menu half bottle of champagne that was really special (and a bargain at $50) but the special by-the-glass Chablis in the photo was even beyond that: minerals with a hint of tangerine peel, perfect with seafood, a great mix of tradition and surprise.

The food impressed us too: we had the massive gem salad (sprinkled with roe and lemon juice, but with an herb-laden ranch dressing). My main was the hamachi collar, with a sweet herbal sauce and enough meat to legitimately compare it to a 12oz. ribeye. I'll be getting that again.

GF had the bluefin dip with fresh potato chips--she thought champagne was the perfect pairing for it, and I agreed.

Go go go,...