Mont Saint-Michel — Attraction in Avranches

Firstly, the hard facts: Parking for Motorcycles: €7 for 3hours Shuttle bus from car parks to site: Free Visit to Abbey: €13 Secondly, my opinion: Beauty, but only from a distance This was my second visit in twenty years and since that time they have built the visitor centre and created a veritable tourist metropolis to serve the many who feel compelled to come and see this architectural marvel. Years before you could take the risk of parking up close on the tidal causeway but that is no longer possible. You are now efficiently herded like cattle to take the shuttle bus from the new car park and dropped off a short distance from the entrance where the same grotty cafe that seems to always have been there greets you like a fairground stall with its overpriced mediocre coffee served in paper cups. As you continue up the steep and narrow cobbled street you are presented not with an authentic medieval ambience but one of a tacky seaside coastal resort which sells garbage souvenirs and trinkets, the sort of which children compel their parents to buy for them under threat of having an explosive tantrum. Although these tacky shops are aesthetically camouflaged in granite and old timbers, little remains of their intrinsic beauty and soul. One visually disagreeable commerce that unavoidably drew my eye was selling the unfortunately fashionable Bubble Tea and toxic looking candy in virulent colours. Entrance to the abbey is not free but I obtained a ticket easily enough. I have visited many churches, cathedrals and holy sites in my fairly long life but this one left me emotionally stone cold. It is nothing but a shell, structurally impressive with incredible views, but nothing more than an empty shell. There was a mass being performed in the abbey while I was there and even that was as sterile as a wet wipe. There were no friezes, tapestries, stained glass or anything representing that this was a place of Christian worship. The few sculptures and icons that were carved into the building were all desecrated, even god’s right hand man, St. Michael himself, had had his face chipped off. 🤷‍♂️ Apparently the monks who live there are of the Jerusalem Brotherhood, which I suspect believe in Iconoclasm. As I attempted to leave the abbey in a state of growing despondency one is then provoked into further despair by being forcefully kettled into the huge abbey shop where you are passively bullied into parting with more of your ever decreasing cash. After exiting the shop, I did have a small glimmer of hope though as you can choose to walk through the abbey gardens as the final part of the tour. I’ve seen many monastic gardens over the years and despite their perceived simplicity and strict lack of colour often convey a sense of place; This had about as much charm as a littered roadside verge. To paraphrase a well known quote: God had definitely left the building. Walking back down the wet and greasy cobbled street and almost breaking my neck twice, I found myself trying to reason as to what I had seen and to try to see the positive side; I was shortly going to be leaving, that was the positive. Clearly, we already live in an age where people are becoming more and more confused about their own identity in this rapidly changing world where contradiction and paradox are now the norm. Mont St. Michel is no exception to that. For me it has no identity other than a place whose sole purpose has become to attract tourists. It seems that is the case for other World Heritage sites too. As I left the site I bid adieu. My advice is, if you have good taste, don’t like crowds, are on a limited budget and don’t want to be disappointed, find a good vantage point from a distance and imagine what it should be like. Because if you are idealistic or a dreamer like me. You may not like...

We went mid week, mid September, which technically isn’t high season, but whoa, I'd hate to be there during that time then because it was BUSY!

We drove and parked in Car Park 13 (should give some idea just how busy it was) and the walk from the car park to the Tourist Information Centre where there's the shuttle bus, toilets and gift shop is also a good ten minutes.

Then, there's the 10 - 15 minute walk from there to the beginning of the boardwalk to MSM. And that boardwalk takes a good 45 minutes.

You can of course take the free shuttle bus from the tourism information centre but the queue was so long we thought let's walk there and bus back.

The walk was pleasant - it wasnt too sunny and a bit breezy so whilst warm it wasnt overwhelming. I think if it'd been in summer... I would've melted from the heat. It's very exposed. So keep that in mind if you are walking with kids or elderly people.

Then when you get there (it's free entry) to the island itself, it's all narrow stone steps and ramps. This is to be expected but it really can take it's toll on you. Wear good, appropriate footwear! There was a reason we saw better prepared people in the car park changing into hiking gear. We had on running trainers, and even though they offered great support, the constant uneven heavy stairs and slopes was getting to our thighs, knees and balls of our feet.

There arent many places to stop and sit down which would improve things massively, and I think if you had a baby in a pram or buggy, or if you have mobility issues you really will struggle to get beyond the first area.

The first area is lined with typical tourist tat shops (ceremonial sword anyone? Made in China magnet for you)? But then there's also some restaurants and cafes etc. We didn't find the prices THAT bad, they have a captive audience but thinking of the logistics of simply getting their supplies to their restaurant makes it fair that they arent charging mainland prices.

We did go in the Abbey, again lovely but so many steps and up and down up and down, i think it was just ok as im not religious and I've been in many old abbeys and the like before and the unique thing about this one is the location not really the building. There's not much info or things to look at in the Abbey but if you can still feel your legs by that point, it's only €16 so worth a mooch if you arent put off by the mountain of stairs.

We were mainly interested in going as we'd seen it on The Walking Dead, but true to French form, there was zero reference to it having ever been filmed there 😂 It's quite pivotal in the story and would've been good to have some of the key scenes pointed out (a bit like GoT locations) but I guess it's more niche of a show.

We queued 20 minutes to get the bus back - not the bus stops arent right at the entrance of MSM, they're a little bit down the boardwalk. On the return, there are two bus stops and the one for the free shuttle to the car parks and tourism centre is the second one along as you walk away from MSM. The first bus stop you come to is for the local bus.

I'm really glad we went, it's a totally unique place, but I would dread to go in summer or during any public holiday. I dropped a star as it really isnt geared up for so many tourists to visit it - the toilets, the lack of anywhere to sit for a bit. Small things.

Plan your trip carefully and wear the...

An Unforgettable Island Abbey Rising from the Tides

Mont SaintMichel is one of those places that feels almost unreal when you first see it. An ancient island crowned with a medieval abbey rising dramatically out of the bay. Whether you arrive at high tide or low the views are spectacular in every direction.

To visit you'll park on the mainland in a large designated parking area. From there free shuttle buses called Le Passeur run every few minutes and take you right up to the footbridge that leads onto the island. The ride only takes about 10 minutes and you can also walk the scenic causeway if you prefer about 30-40 minutes on foot Note that parking costs around 15 per day so be prepared to pay when you leave.

Once you enter the gates youll wind your way through narrow medieval streets lined with shops restaurants and museums. Of course it is all uphill 😎. It can be crowded but the atmosphere is lively and unique Climbing up to the abbey at the very top is a workout lots of stone steps but absolutely worth the view.Our tour guide also told us the Germans took over the place during WWII because of the views.

The entrance fee for the abbey itself is about 16 for adults free for EU residents under 26 Inside youll explore a remarkable series of rooms cloisters and chapels that have been here since the 8th century. The views from the ramparts are incredibleon a clear day you can see miles across the tidal flats Keep an eye out for the huge flocks of seabirds including baby seagulls in the spring and summer we saw several with a very protective mother swooping low over visitors. We also saw some parachutists on the day we visited.

There are plenty of cafes and creperies on the island if you need a break or a meal that are on the more expensive side since it is a tourist place. If you can try to time your visit to watch the tide come inits a dramatic sight as the sea rushes back around the island

Whether youre drawn by the history the architecture or the sheer beauty of the setting Mont SaintMichel is a place youll never forget. Definitely an Instagram picture...