National Museum Bangkok — Attraction in Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang Subdistrict

When I visited perhaps they were in between shows and only the standing collection was open because there were a couple of large halls completely empty save for harried-looking ladies and gentlemen with small children rushing to and fro. The hall on the left with the standing collection was, I suppose, about 100 m long and 15-20 m wide, divided into three or four equally sized rooms devoted to a chronology of modern art periods in the Kingdom, "modern" in this instance being defined as "Western influences"; so we have here and there a hint of Impressionism, Surrealism and the like. There's nothing on a grand scale like the British and mainland European enthusiasm for works as large as the wall of the gallery; most are modestly sized and diligently rendered pieces. I was much taken by a small clump of woodcuts on peasant themes: marvellously energetic line work and beautifully composed. There's also a remarkable statue -- bronze, I think -- slightly larger than life, of a naked, pubescent girl that I doubt would be allowed in a Western gallery these days, which would be a shame insomuch as the work manages to capture that time of painful energy rather well in the expression on the child's face and the mixture of awkwardness and elegance in the posture.

I wondered why it might be that a "national gallery" could have such a relatively slight collection, honest though it be, and realised that I was thinking the wrong way around insomuch as the surrounding temples, the neighbouring "national museum" that was formerly a complex of aristocratic residences and all the ritualistic paraphernalia housed therein, all with their extraordinary effulgence of sculptural detail developed by artists of the highest order over many generations were the major show of the living gallery of the Kingdom. Some might think it's all a form of "billionaire kitsch": can it be art if it's not smothered in gold? That would be a little harsh and rather churlishly overlook the astonishing artistry, gold being but the dominant colour in the palette.

That aside, it's easy not to find the entrance to the National Gallery: the taxi driver drove in and around and up and back dead ends before he was finally directed by a sympathetic observer to the building next door where I noticed a small sign on wheels reading "national gallery, parking to the side", or words to that effect in both Thai and English. One walks into a courtyard through what might once have been the carriage entrance (perhaps it was once a stables? I think not; though it did see service for other purposes before being designated a gallery) with an eager security guard suddenly lurching up from his slumber to gesture enthusiastically toward a long low building on the left; there was probably a fee to enter but I cannot recall exactly so dazed was I already by the hunt and the heat and the unexpected humbleness...

The sheer scale of the National Museum Bangkok is the first thing that hits you. Plan to spend at least half a day here, and even then, you'll likely only scratch the surface of the vast collection. My recent visit left me awestruck, and "wow" was pretty much my constant refrain as I moved from room to room.

This museum isn't just big; it's magnificent. The buildings themselves are beautiful, and the artifacts within are displayed with care and reverence. It's a journey through thousands of years of Thai history, from ancient kingdoms to more recent periods. You'll see everything from exquisite religious sculptures and intricate artwork to royal regalia and everyday objects, each telling a story of Thailand's rich and complex past.

While the size can be a little daunting, it also means there's something for everyone. Whether you're a history buff, an art lover, or simply curious about Thai culture, you'll find something to captivate you. I was particularly impressed by the detailed explanations accompanying many of the exhibits, providing valuable context and insights.

However, one aspect of my visit left me feeling somewhat disappointed. The museum displays Dong Son drums, which, while excavated in Thailand, are undeniably a product of Vietnam's Dong Son culture. These bronze drums are a source of national pride for Vietnam, representing a significant part of our history and heritage. Yet, the museum's labeling and descriptions of these artifacts failed to acknowledge their Vietnamese origin, instead focusing on influences from other neighboring countries like Myanmar, Laos, and China. This omission felt like a lack of respect for Vietnam's cultural heritage and the historical connections between our nations, especially considering the drums likely arrived in Thailand through trade and cultural exchange within mainland Southeast Asia. It is crucial for museums to accurately represent the provenance of their artifacts, acknowledging the historical and cultural context in which they were created.

The museum's layout can be a bit confusing at times, so it's worth grabbing a map at the entrance. Comfortable shoes are also a must! While there's a cafe on-site, the options are limited, so you might want to consider bringing your own snacks and drinks.

Overall, the National Museum Bangkok is a must-see for anyone visiting the city. It offers a fascinating glimpse into the heart and soul of Thailand. However, the issue with the Dong Son drums' attribution slightly tarnished my experience. I hope the museum will rectify this oversight in the future to provide a more accurate and respectful representation of Southeast...

Updated 2025 On 5th April 2025, I visited the museum shop again in the afternoon.An older cashier at the museum souvenirs shop wasn't very friendly. Despite the fact that I've been there many times already, this was the first time I was treated as if I would steal their goods like that, that cashier keeping an eye on me and need to come over to take a look at me once in every few minutes or stand near me wherever I walked to(generally this museum shop doesn't require any marketing on any product or reception to any customer. I have been there many times to walk around and in the past no cashier watching over me at all times like yesterday ) and she also requested me to put the items that I've chosen to purchase on their cashier counter when I was holding the items(just 2 small boxes of perfumes which can be easily held in 1 hand) with me to explore the shop. This was the first time being treated like that, many times in the past I went there were very casual and free to look around.

I reflected on myself.... This time when I arrived I just mentioned to them that last week I had brought the wrong perfume that I intended to purchase because the supplier of the perfume used the same box to contain 2 different types of perfumes. I was also trying on the perfumes tester before deciding to purchase another 2 boxes of perfumes yesterday.Other than that, I didn't do anything weird or what. I just walked around, tried on the testers, briefly flipped and read some books for sale that's all. I think my appearance was not like any beggar on the street or what despite having to carry 3 bags with me and looks somehow clumsy on that day due to shopping. I don't know why I'm being treated like that. I don't know if there is anything related to foreigners that has caused any problems to this country which caused bad impressions to the locals. I'm a foreigner but I'm sure I've done my best to follow the country's protocols and also sincerely respect the culture here. Not all foreigners are the same. Please do not think negatively on anyone else if they have not done any offence. .........

2023 & 2024 The exhibition itself is not bad, but this place isn't wheelchair or elderly friendly if you would like to visit every room.

Stairs are very steep and internal floors are very slippery. Must...