Shiraume — Hotel in Kyoto

This trip was a much-needed getaway for my wife and me, a chance to slow down, spend time together, and take in Kyoto at a different pace. And there was no better place for it than Shiraume, a ryokan that’s all about tradition, history, and genuine hospitality.

When we arrived, Tomoko-chan welcomed us and immediately shared the story behind Shiraume’s design. The zigzag corridors were built as escape routes, and the low ceilings made it hard for samurai to swing their katanas indoors. Every detail had a purpose, and you could tell this place had history.

Over the next few days, she shared even more stories. She told us how, in the past, young women weren’t allowed to show their faces and had to rely on their beautiful hair to attract suitors, which is why seaweed symbolizes good hair.

A particularly enlightening discussion revolved around the regional differences in preparing unagi. In tokyo region, chefs cut eel from the back to avoid associations with seppuku (ritual suicide), reflecting the profound impact of samurai culture on culinary practices. As for the unagi that we had for dinner, it was “harakiried”.

The culinary journey at Shiraume was exceptional. Meticulously prepared kaiseki dinners and hearty Japanese breakfasts showcased Kyoto’s seasonal ingredients, each dish telling a story of local tradition.

Then there was Mr. Oh, the crane, named after a famous baseball player known for his one-legged batting stance. This bird apparently follows a strict daily routine, having breakfast at Shiraume, lunch next door, and dinner at a Chinese restaurant.

But the story that really stuck with me was Tomoko-chan’s own journey. Shiraume has been passed down from mother to daughter for generations, and growing up, she felt a lot of pressure to take over. She wanted to find her own path and even tried to walk away from it. But over time, her love for Kyoto brought her back, and she eventually took over Shiraume to continue the family legacy.

Now, she has a daughter of her own, and instead of forcing her to stay, she’s encouraged her to explore the world and figure out what she wants. But it’s clear that deep down, she hopes her daughter will return one day, just like she did, to carry on Shiraume’s story.

Hearing this made me reflect on my own parenting. I realized that holding on too tightly to my kids, especially when it comes to their studies, might not be what they need. Tomoko-chan’s approach showed me that sometimes, the best thing a parent can do is let go and trust that their kids will find their own way. And maybe, just like Shiraume, what’s truly meant to be will always come back.

What made this trip even more special was that we got to experience snow. Watching Kyoto slow down under a layer of snow made the whole experience feel even more unique.

With its calm, unhurried pace, Shiraume was the perfect place to reset and take a break from the fast-paced life in Singapore. The great hospitality, the interesting stories, and the unexpected snowfall made it an experience I...

My husband and I stayed at the beautiful Umegae room in Shiraume for one night for our honeymoon, and it was a luxurious experience filled with excellent service and attention to detail. Even before our arrival, the owner, Okuda-san, diligently communicated via e-mail to ensure that the food preferences and details were well-prepared for.

Shiraume was close to the Kawaramachi train station, and conveniently located in Gion near many temples and attractions. Upon arrival, we were greeted warmly, given a tour of the premises, and served tea and traditional sweets and snacks. The room was more than spacious, and it felt like we were transported back in time with the finer materials furnished, like bamboo, wood, lacquerware, and ceramic. Two tokonomas (alcoves decorated with scrolls and fresh flowers) were arranged, and a seasonal incense was chosen for after dinner. Cotton yukatas awaited us, along with tabi socks that could be kept as a souvenir.

For dinner, we had Kobe beef and a kaiseki dinner, which were fresh, beautifully presented, and paced thoughtfully by our room attendant. Throughout the meal, Okuda-san was present to tell her personal story, share tidbits of Kyoto's history, and explain the dishes and how best to enjoy the food. Her grace and knowledge were invaluable to our stay. As part of the incredible hospitality, we were gifted with a plum wine and sparkling plum juice toast, and "happy rice" for our marriage. Beyond the history and aesthetics of Japan, truly it was the kindness and hospitality of the people there that made our travels unforgettable.

After dinner, we wanted to visit Kodai-ji Temple for their nighttime illuminations, so staff called an English-speaking taxi driver, and wrote down directions on a map on the most scenic way to walk back to the ryokan. The cypress bathtub was deep and perfect for soaking in after a long day, and the body scrub and lotion were fine accompaniments to a relaxing ritual.

In the morning, breakfast was served in a communal breakfast room that had a view of the Shirakawa Canal. A little frog and great blue heron were visiting guests by the window! I recommend the Japanese-style breakfast, which is served with a variety of small, seasonal dishes. Okuda-san remembered that I wasn't fond of red bean, and had the chef create a substitute for one of the dishes. She continued enlightening us on the traditions and folklore of Kyoto during this time, and saw us off with warm good-byes. Shiraume is worth the saving up for and splurging on.

ありがとう ございます, Okuda-san and Shiraume staff! We look forward to our next visit, and wish you...

My husband and I had both been to Kyoto several times before and considered skipping it in our vacation itinerary this year, but when we realized there was availability at Shiraume/Baian, we just had to book it. Tomoko was so gracious and kind in her emails, which was a precursor to the exceptional level of hospitality we experienced.||All the team at Shiraume were fantastic, from the moment we stepped foot into the ryokan to checkout. They really take care to learn how your trip is going and make sure you have everything you need. ||The room itself was gorgeous. We stayed in room Sen on the first floor in the annex ryokan Baian, and it felt like having a small private villa to yourself. After checking in, we were planning to go out briefly before dinner, but the room was so peaceful we didn’t want to leave. It was so nice to just relax there for a while by the garden. The beds were also super comfortable, and the hinoki bathtub was certainly a plus!||We had both the dinner and breakfast, and the food was both delicious and beautifully presented—artfully plated on ceramics that look like museum pieces. Saho was our server for dinner, and she was so sweet and lovely. Besides making wonderful conversation, she explained the elements of each dish and how they were carefully chosen to highlight Kyoto’s seasonal ingredients and local traditions. ||Tomoko also visited our table during both meals and shared with us some of Shiraume’s stories, Kyoto’s history, and engaging anecdotes of her own. She was so personable and charming, and it was such a pleasure to meet her. She also gave us some superb recommendations for shops in the area that we made sure to utilize the next day. ||The room and meals at Shiraume were amazing, but the incredibly personalized service with astounding attention to detail was what really set this stay apart from others. We thoroughly enjoyed our time here and were so glad we made the trip to Kyoto for it. We would 100% stay again if we’re lucky enough to do so...