Recently, while in London, I took the opportunity to have a toot (as they say in Lancashire) at what had been Le Caprice restaurant in Arlington Street. It was a sad sight and I wish I hadn't done it. A place that generated so many happy memories was now just a shell of what it had once been. I wrote about the demise of Caprice here, so I don't intend to bleat on about it again now.
Part of the reason for being in London that day was to see what Jesus Ardono and his team were now doing for Rocco Forte, in Brown's Hotel in Mayair. The flagship restaurant in Brown's is Charlie's and in appearance it's the antithesis of Le Caprice, against which I was inevitably comparing it. Caprice was designed on a monochrome palette whereas Charlies' is a riot of colour with decoration, in what I can only describe as 'jungle' style. The room is large and at first glance seems more formal. The design was the work of Olga Polizzi, daughter of the later Sir Charles Forte after whom the restaurant is named. Olga is Director of Design for Rocco Forte Hotels. Personally I find she often takes good ideas a little too far. The plates in Charlie's seem not to show off the food to best advantage and are too busy. Give me a round white plate any day.
Immediately on arrival in the dining room there was a huge wave from Jesus from across the bar area and a very welcome surprise as Paul Stabbins, who had looked after us so well on many visits to Caprice, crept up behind us to give us a very warm welcoming hug. Immediately I felt at ease and gained certainty that the spirit of Caprice was alive and well and would soon dominate Charlie's. With these two, front of house, I'm certain that the journey to create something special is being driven forwards with gentle determination and a sense of generous hospitality.
Jesus offered us a choice of tables, both in prime position at the end of the room. He was particularly proud of his decision to install semi-circular banquettes at some of the tabs around the perimeter of the dining room and so we chose one of those, a great spot, he said, for people watching.
The menu is fairly classic with modern twists and the kitchens are led by chef Adam Byatt (of Trinity in Clapham). I was pleased to see that some Caprice classics had made the move to Mayfair and sit alongside the carve-at-the-table roast meat trolley.
I had Omelette Arnold Bennett with English Lobster to start, followed by Chicken Kyiv the price of each one sold being donated to the British Red Cross to help Ukrainians displaced by the current Russian war of aggression. Both dishes were enjoyable and well prepared but I would have liked my Kyiv to have given up more unctuous butter when I cut into it. Next visit I'll try the Calves Liver and Bacon which is always a good litmus test
Omelette Arnold Bennett with Lobster Chicken Kyiv The hospitality industry has taken big hit because of the Covid Pandemic with many good staff leaving the industry for more flexible and better paid jobs. Recruiting, training and retaining front of house staff, even in the best restaurants must be very challenging at the moment. Charlie's has a little way to go to before it delivers the über efficient, yet friendly and appropriately infomal service we saw at Caprice. I'm confident that they will get there though and will certainly go again next time I'm in London to see how things are progressing. In the meantime, I wish Jesus, Paul and their team 'in bocca al lupo". See you...
Read moreMy husband, 23 month old son and our dog all stayed over Christmas from 24-28th December and had the most incredible time at Browns. The service was always brilliant, the moment we arrived through our entire trip and even on Christmas Day (which might be a tricky day for the staff missing out on celebrations with their own family) but they were all were so upbeat, happy and helped us feel true Christmas spirit - especially the waiting staff, there was one lovely gentleman who ran across the hotel finding a bib for my son when we forgot ours. ||We were delighted by all the extra surprises, like the stocking on the door filled with little gifts for our son on Christmas morning through to Christmas cake arriving on Christmas Day evening for us to enjoy once our son had gone to bed. The Santa that explored the lobby and handed out gifts and storytelling was a great touch and made it really exciting for the children. ||All the staff in the bar were wonderful when we had a drink before our Christmas dinner, having so much patience with our son when he wanted to take their hand and walk round with them they were happy to help entertain him which was so lovely of them! ||The concierge and reception staff were also brilliant, wish we had got the name of the gentleman that helped us when our dog sitter had got stuck in traffic and we had to leave - he went and sat with our dog so he wasn’t alone until the sitter arrived and it was such a kind, thoughtful thing to do. We were very happy with their recommendations and services too. A special shout out to Givi at the door who always welcomed us so cheerfully when we arrived and left and took the time to get to know us a little more. ||Great service all the way round, and haven’t even mentioned the room which was incredible! Impeccably clean, and the cleaning staff were also so lovely every time we met them. ||We were genuinely sad to check out and although we don’t usually stay in hotels more than once, we both agreed we will have to return and would love to enjoy another Christmas...
Read moreBeyond bespoke and oozing with genuine service with a smile, Brown's hotel goes above and beyond to make you feel like family and at home away from home. In a world full of disingenuous self promotion, the staff of the Brown's lives up to the promise of making you feel comfortable and well attended through the smallest of touches that mean so much. If you are questioning where to stay in London, few could reach the bar that the Browns maintains.
Location is quite perfect whether you are looking to shop just steps away or to explore the better parts of London afoot. The stroll is easy to the underground while the Brown's will easily attain transportation to adventure further.
Rooms are very spacious and accommodating with luxurious touches to make you feel quite at home. Nestled just off the busier streets, the rooms are quiet so that you may rest without the nosier influx of the crowded traffic lanes nearby. Beds are large and comfortable which is not easily found in the city. Bathrooms well appointed with large amounts of counter space to allow for everyone to get prepared for the day easily and comfortably. Again, little touches of luxury from towels to linens and enough closet space to allow you to feel like you aren't living from a suitcase.
Food service is grand and once again the restaurant and bar staff make you feel like a houseguest rather than rushed to eat and leave.
Now the real reason one should stay at the Browns hotel is the staff. My family and I arrived midday on Christmas for a last minute holiday celebration for our family of 6. From the minute of our arrival, the staff greeted us like welcomed family guests and extended the festive cheer to all of us even though they were working away from their own families on the holidays. From wonderful gifts to our children who range from 6 to 20, the Brown staff made us feel at home immediately.
If you're looking for a quintessential British stay with a true note of class and focus on above expectation service, please choose this fine...
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