Embla — Restaurant in Hong Kong Island

Today Embla is the best meal in Hong Kong. Quite simply, an outstanding world-class experience.

As a visitor, I’ve always revered the exceptional quality of the dining scene in Hong Kong. Like everyone else, over the past couple of years I’ve also been subjected to negative narratives surrounding the city and its alleged death by the hand of the pandemic. Upon my (somehow nervous) return to Hong Kong, after a three-year hiatus, I chose Embla for my first meal.

I was not sure of what to expect, but the one thing I knew is that the space is wonderful: it’s the thing I liked the most about the previous tenure. Embla made it even more welcoming, adding a few cozy touches. We are talking about a small venue, dimly yet perfectly lit. My favourite part is certainly the beautiful marble counter: while there is no open-fire kitchen, chefs assemble a lot of the dishes there, in plain sight. A great show.

Frankly, Nordic cuisine at times can be at austere, boring, or extreme (or, all of the above). I won’t deny that I had some concerns… A voice in my head kept echoing: as a London-based diner who often goes to Scandinavia, why on earth am I picking a Nordic restaurant in Hong Kong? Well, I eventually got my answer - and a very positive one - stated and restated, dish after dish. Chef Jim Löfdahl showcases his Swedish heritage and unique flavours, without being afraid of pleasing the crowds. The tasting menu is an utterly enjoyable dance between luscious creations (don’t think twice and go for the optional Gubbröra to kick-start the feast; equally enjoyable is the sublime roe deer tartare), impeccable cooking (the softest pidgeon you could ever wish for), and truly unique flavours (think deep fried lichens, or allium flowers… outstanding). The result is that Embla’s menu is by far the best Nordic-inspired journey I’ve experienced so far.

What is arguably the most enjoyable part of the experience is the beverage program, curated by superstar Yulia Ezhikova. In my view, she has discreetly but steadily risen to being the best sommelier in Asia (if you are into wine, do yourself a favour and read her columns). With an unparalleled breadth of knowledge, she guides her guests through selections that are at the same time imaginative as well as precise. Never extreme for the sake of it, yet never mainstream. Always unpretentious, yet always exceptional (in the true sense of the word). From long-forgotten grapes to established staples, Yulia pushes us to forget old-school restaurant legacy or meaningless trends, reminding us of the true joy of drinking. Her passion is contagious: from the way she speaks about wine, to the impeccable service that tops any 3 Michelin-star restaurant I’ve been to (try to observe and smell a glass before the pour: not a single mark, and not even a faint hint of any rogue odour - unfortunately not the case in many other establishments). On top of all of this, she is a wonderful person.

Finally, it is worth relaying a small anecdote to commend the staff for their commitment to their customers. The night I was there, a couple was booked for the last sitting and did not show up. I witnessed the staff calling them and being told of a delay. In the end, the diners showed up more than one hour late. For a small restaurant that only offers a tasting menu, I imagine this must be as pleasant as slapping the chef on the face and setting their premises on fire. Let’s be practical: a one-hour delay equals to staff having to work for an extra hour. On a Saturday night. In any other place I think the one-hour-late-comers would have been politely told to go elsewhere (and their deposit rightly forfeited). The staff at Embla not only sat them and served them, but welcomed them with a smile and never remarked their lateness. I profoundly respect them for this.

Embla is the very tangible sign that Hong Kong’s dining scene is alive, vibrant and...

The curated menu provides an impressive exploration of Nordic cuisine with modern techniques and inventive pairings. Each dish feels deeply connected to nature, bringing fresh flavours highlighting land and sea. The focus on seasonal ingredients and locally sourced components elevates the dining experience to refined simplicity yet luxurious indulgence.

(1) Cured Rainbow Trout with Black Radish, Essence of Tomato & Coffee: A refreshing start to the meal, the cured trout brings a delicate, smoky flavour balanced by the sharpness of radish and the surprising complexity of tomato and coffee. The combination, though unexpected, works beautifully to awaken the palate, leaving you intrigued and excited for what's to come.

(2) King Oyster Mushroom with Toasted Yeast Bouillon, Dulse, and Sweet & Sour Pumpkin: This dish celebrates the umami-packed flavours of mushrooms and yeast, giving it a rich and savoury depth. The inclusion of pumpkin adds a layer of sweetness that complements the earthiness of the other components, while dulse (seaweed) gives it a maritime touch.

(3) Wagyu "A4" Striploin with Turnip, Cinnamon & Coffee: The Wagyu striploin is perfectly cooked, offering a melt-in-your-mouth experience. The pairing of slightly sweet and earthy turnip with warming cinnamon and coffee is bold but balanced, accentuating the beef’s natural richness. This balance of flavours leaves you feeling satisfied and content.

(4) Aged Duck with Spring Carrots, Orange & Sea Buckthorn Sauce: This beautifully prepared duck is tender and rich in flavor. The citrusy sea buckthorn sauce and carrots bring brightness to the dish, cutting through the richness of the duck for a balanced and satisfying bite.

(5) Rapeseed Oil Sorbet with Poached Rhubarb, Meringue, Vanilla, & Herbs: This dessert is a testament to the menu's creativity. Rapeseed oil in a sorbet is an innovative choice, creating a creamy, slightly savoury base that contrasts wonderfully with the tart rhubarb and the sweet, airy meringue.

Each dish is plated with meticulous attention to detail, featuring vibrant colours and artistic compositions. The food's beauty is as stimulating and engaging as its taste, making each course a feast for the eyes as well as the palate.

This Nordic-inspired menu is a masterclass in flavour pairing and culinary technique. It plays with contrasts—both subtle and bold—while keeping the essence of the ingredients at the forefront. It is a memorable experience for any gourmet enthusiast looking for a sophisticated yet approachable...

The appetizer presents a delightful harmony of flavors with its steamed egg base, elegantly adorned with succulent crab meat and vibrant trout roe. The roe not only introduces a burst of color but also a playful texture that dances on the palate. Meanwhile, the crab meat enhances the creamy, savory custard of the steamed egg, crafting a symphony of taste, making this dish an exquisite start to any meal.

The smoked shrimp "Skagerrak" is nothing short of an epiphany, its tender smokiness enhancing the shrimp's inherent sweetness. Paired with pike roe, it delivers an unexpected yet delightful oceanic umami. The pear espuma adds a playful, fruity lightness, while tonka bean and kohlrabi bring earthy, nutty undertones that complete the composition.

The sour milk bread, unassuming yet essential, celebrates the robust grains of rye, spelt, barley, and oats. Dense yet tender, it transforms into a rustic comfort when generously spread with homemade butter, epitomizing the simplicity and richness of Nordic fare.

Then arrives the king oyster mushroom creation, a symphony of flavors and textures. The toasted yeast bouillon imparts a profound, savory umami that perfectly complements the mushrooms' hearty texture. Dulse whispers of the sea, while the sweet and sour pumpkin purée offers a vibrant, tangy-sweet interplay that enlivens the taste buds.

The pan-seared scallops are executed to perfection, crowned with a delicate, golden crust. Girolle purée imparts an earthy depth harmonizing with the scallops' inherent sweetness. Poached clams introduce a subtle brininess, while the sea buckthorn velouté surprises with its silky, citrusy tartness, seamlessly melding the ensemble.

Concluding this culinary journey is the smoked ice cream, a pièce de résistance. Creamy with a subtle smokiness, it captivates without overpowering. Pu-erh tea infuses an aromatic earthiness, while bergamot lends a floral, citrusy brilliance. Spiced cookie crumbs contribute a pleasing crunch, wrapping up the dessert with a warm, spiced embrace.

In essence, this lunch menu guides one through a gustatory voyage of the Nordic terrain, each dish a harmonious blend of flavors and umami, showcasing the finest Scandinavian ingredients. It is a dining experience that is both elegant and comforting...