Keisei Yuzen is a reliable airport restaurant offering a broad range of Japanese classicsâfrom ramen and sushi to grilled fish and tempura. It's good. But in the land of culinary excellence, âgoodâ feels slightly underwhelming. Still, for airport dining? A clear step above the global average. 3/5 â Satisfying and safe, but not quite standout.
Full Review: Keisei Yuzen â An Airport Meal Thatâs Good⊠but Not Great â 3/5 â Comfortable, competent, but held back by its terminal location
Letâs be honest: airport dining around the world is, more often than not, a culinary afterthoughtâa last-minute trap for the jetlagged or desperate. From soggy reheats in America to overpriced cafĂ© chains across Europe, expectations tend to hover somewhere between âtolerableâ and âplease donât make me eat this.â But this is Japan, and Japan rarely settles for mediocrityâeven in transit zones.
So when I sat down at Keisei Yuzen (äșŹæćèł) in Narita Airport, I wasnât expecting a culinary revelation. I just wanted something palatable, something warm. What I got was⊠surprisingly decent.
This is a restaurant that casts a wide netâsoba, udon, ramen, sushi, grilled fish, tempura, donburi, gyoza, karaage⊠itâs all here. In some countries, that kind of menu breadth is a red flag. But in Japan, where culinary execution often meets clockwork precision, itâs more of a shrug: they can probably handle it. And in this case? They mostly do.
Over the course of our group meal, we sampled across the spectrum. The gyoza had a light crisp to them and avoided the dreaded chewiness. Ramen was salty, savory, and satisfyingâthough it wonât make any âTop 10 in Tokyoâ lists. The karaage was crispy and juicy, the miso soup was comfortingly standard, and the grilled fish had that slightly smoky, satisfying char that signals attention in the kitchen. Even the sushi, while far from elite, was fresh enough to enjoy without hesitation.
But hereâs the catch: step outside the airport, and for the same priceâor often lessâyouâll find better. Better broth, better cuts, better execution, and better portions. Keisei Yuzen isnât doing anything wrong. In fact, itâs doing quite a lot right. But when placed against the staggering benchmark of everyday Japanese dining, especially for those of us whoâve spent weeks or months in Japan, the bar is simply higher.
That said, context is everything. And in the context of airport food, this place is a cut above the global average. While it doesnât transcend its surroundings, it certainly outperforms most terminal eateries in Europe or the U.S. The dining space is clean, staff were polite and efficient, and they move diners through smoothlyâessential for layovers or pre-flight meals.
Final Thoughts: Keisei Yuzen is âgood enoughââbut in Japan, âgood enoughâ is still, well, pretty good. If youâve got time to kill before your flight and youâre craving a final taste of Japan, this is a perfectly safe and satisfying option. Just donât mistake convenience for culinary peak.
Verdict: 3/5. A respectable airport meal. If only it were located outside the terminalâthen the standards...
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The server informed me about the 20-minute waiting time for the food before I was seated, which is crucial for travelers who might be in a hurry to catch their flights.
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