I've been 20+ countries and this was the second biggest let down to date. I'm not sure what I expected of the "oldest restaurant in the world" other than to be a total tourist trap. Tldr: horrible service, mediocre food, prepared to be bumped into and elbowed through the meal.
I showed up on a Sunday at open, 8pm, during a solo motorcycle trip. The line was probably 10m long - I asked the door man whether I had a chance to get in without a reservation (reservations at the time were 3+ weeks out), he blew me off to wrangle some other customers (reasonable) then said possibly, just wait in line. The line fortunately moved relatively quick, maybe 10-15 mins. The host was nice enough and sounded apologetic, suggesting to come back at 9:30. At this point, I was already feeling a bit skeptical that it was going to be a good experience, and was strongly contemplating just going elsewhere after putting in 6 hours on the motorcycle from San Sebastian (amazing place for food and in general). However, I decided that I came all this way and had this pinned for so long that I need to try it.
I showed up later and was told to wait by the front counter. After about 5 mins of dodging other customers and wait staff I asked the host if I should just come back another day, he said no stay right there. Then maybe another 5 mins later or so, he told me to go upstairs. The place was packed - like they fit the absolute most amount of tables possible to maximize seating for good and bad.
I must have just had bad luck and got the old surly waiter that hated his job. He said the absolute minimum amount possible, just staring at you over his glasses. I tried to greet him and he just cuts me off and says "English menu" and hands me the folded paper menu. I begin ordering in English and he doesn't understand so I repeat myself in Spanish to clarify, to which he ignores and repeats the question in English. He then slams every plate, glass, and bottle on the table without a word. He upturns the bottles when pouring, chugging wine and water over the edges of the glasses - not to be seen again at my table until I'm finished eating. I ask for a clarification to the bill and now he chooses to go off in Spanish, too bad I speak enough Spanish to counter, to which he reverts back to English!
The food was okay, but nothing special. The mushrooms were good, I would definitely recommend that if you must eat here. Of course I had the suckling pig pig too - which came as a rib piece and the last bit of the hind leg. The skin on both pieces are still crispy, but definitely starting to be borderline soggy. Bone fragments throughout. The rib meat was tender and juicy but tiny tiny - after a bunch of cutting and scraping maybe three bites of meat. The leg meat was dry and stringy, bad for something even 1/3 of the price. I've had 40 peso chuletas on the streets of Oaxaca better than that. Total for one person came out to 60 euros and I walked away hungry and disappointed.
During the meal, I was elbowed and walked into by wait staff multiple times - not their fault, the restaurant is just cramming so many tables in at the expense of customer experience. That being said, the food came out relatively quick, mine was noticeably quicker than everyone else's in the room. I was in and out in under 45 mins - towards the end I couldn't wait to leave. Total waste of time and calories.
I had absolutely loved every bit of my culinary experience in Spain thus far (and the rest of Europe for that matter) until...
Read moreCasa Botín was founded in 1725 and, according to the Guinness Book of Records, is considered the oldest restaurant in the world. It is an institution of traditional Spanish cuisine in Madrid. For this reason, my girlfriend and I decided that during our short trip to Madrid, we absolutely had to dine there. Since we had read in advance that making a reservation in time was necessary, we secured a table a month ahead.
Upon our arrival, we were warmly welcomed and guided to our table. At first, the restaurant was relatively empty, but it quickly filled up until every seat was taken. The menu was handed to us, although we already knew that we wanted to try the famous roasted suckling pig from the oven. Additionally, we ordered the roast chicken with vegetables. We chose a bottle of rosé wine and still water to go with our meal. As a starter, we were served bread.
Unfortunately, the initially friendly service deteriorated over time. The waiters seemed increasingly stressed and inattentive. As tourists, we did not feel particularly welcome, especially since our Spanish skills were limited and the staff seemed reluctant to communicate in English. Additionally, we had to wait an unusually long time for our drinks.
However, the food was served quickly, and we were excited to try the famous suckling pig. And indeed, it was excellent! The meat was juicy, the skin wonderfully crispy—almost like chips. The side dish, however, was disappointing: just two small potatoes. It would have been nice to have a choice of which part of the pig to receive, as it was purely a matter of luck whether you got more meat or mostly bones and cartilage.
The roast chicken, unfortunately, was not convincing. The skin was not crispy but rather soggy, and the breast meat was dry. Once again, the side dish was extremely sparse: one potato and five halved mushrooms.
Since the portions were not particularly filling, we decided to share a dessert—carrot cake. However, this turned out to be perfect and was a small highlight of the evening.
Conclusion: Our visit to Casa Botín was undoubtedly a special experience. The historic atmosphere of the restaurant is impressive, and the open kitchen with its many suckling pigs is definitely worth seeing. However, the service did not convince us—the waiters seemed hectic, we had to wait a long time, and as tourists, we did not feel particularly welcome.
The biggest criticism, however, is the price-performance ratio. For a main course costing over 30 euros, we expected at least a satisfying side dish, even if there was no additional meat. Ultimately, we can recommend Casa Botín as a one-time experience—it’s a place worth talking about. However, we wouldn’t go there a second time....
Read moreSobrino de Botín: A Culinary Journey Through History in Madrid
Nestled in the heart of Madrid, Sobrino de Botín is more than just a restaurant; it is a living piece of history. Established in 1725, it holds the title of the oldest continuously operating restaurant in the world, according to the Guinness Book of World Records. Walking through its doors feels like stepping back in time, with its rustic wooden beams, cozy brick-lined dining rooms, and an old-world charm that has been meticulously preserved over the centuries.
A Historical Haven
Founded by Frenchman Jean Botín and his wife, the restaurant originally served as a tavern and inn. The Botíns’ nephew later took over, giving the establishment its enduring name, "Sobrino de Botín," which translates to "Botín's nephew." Throughout its long history, Botín has attracted a host of notable figures, including the legendary painter Francisco Goya, who allegedly worked there as a dishwasher before his artistic career took off, and the famous writer Ernest Hemingway, who immortalized the restaurant in his novel The Sun Also Rises.
A Menu Rooted in Tradition
Sobrino de Botín's menu is a celebration of traditional Castilian cuisine, with recipes that have been passed down and perfected over generations. The star of the show is undoubtedly the Cochinillo Asado (roast suckling pig), a dish that has become synonymous with the restaurant itself. The pig is slow-roasted in the original wood-fired oven, which has been in continuous use since the restaurant's opening. The result is a crispy, golden skin encasing tender, succulent meat—a true culinary masterpiece.
Another signature dish is the Cordero Asado (roast lamb), prepared with the same meticulous care and tradition as the cochinillo. Both dishes embody the essence of Castilian cooking: simple, hearty, and full of flavor. Accompanying these mains, diners often enjoy Sopa Castellana (Castilian soup), a rich, garlicky broth with bread, poached egg, and jamón (Spanish ham), or the Gambas al Ajillo (garlic shrimp), a favorite among seafood lovers.
For dessert, the Tarta Botín, a house-made cake with layers of sponge and cream, offers a sweet ending to Dining at Sobrino de Botín is not just about the food; it’s about being part of a centuries-old tradition that continues to thrive in modern Madrid. The restaurant's enduring appeal lies in its ability to transport gĺuests to a different era while offering a menu that celebrates the very best of Spanish cuisine. Whether you’re a history...
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