Row on 45 — Restaurant in Dubai

My dining experience at Row on 45 by Jason Atherton was nothing short of extraordinary – the best meal I had on holiday and a masterclass in fine dining. The two Michelin stars are well-deserved, with every element, from the setting to the service, executed to perfection. The design and inspiration behind the menu were crystal clear, with Jason’s experience and global influences shining through in every dish.

The 17-course tasting menu was an immersive journey, starting in the Champagne Lounge, transitioning to the main dining room (where watching the food prepared in the open kitchen added an extra layer of intrigue), and finishing in the library. The intent behind each dish elevated the entire experience, as did the stunning views over Dubai. Adding to the atmosphere was the soundtrack – a brilliant mix of 80s and 90s music that evoked a sense of nostalgia and created an energetic yet relaxed backdrop to the evening.

The service was exceptional, and the non-alcoholic pairings I opted for were thoughtfully curated, complementing the dishes beautifully. While the truffle course was offered as an additional indulgence, with 17 courses, you certainly won’t leave hungry. It’s a splurge, but if you’re in Dubai, I’d absolutely prioritise this restaurant.

Here’s a course-by-course reflection of the meal:

Champagne Lounge – Amuse-Bouche

Oyster and Pearl: A dish with a story, pairing caviar with a delightful ozone flavour. The concept of the oyster and pearl was perfectly executed and set the tone for the meal. Tuna: Smoky BBQ flavours balanced beautifully, though the delicate tuna belly was somewhat overshadowed. Delicious, though the intent was less clear. Mushroom on Toast: An ingenious dish with cheese and a subtle hint of marmite. Cleverly balanced and deeply satisfying. Main Dining Area Uni and Langoustine: A fantastic balance of flavours, with citrus brightening the dish. The uni delivered a light ozone note, and the crunch added a wonderful texture. Salted Egg Prawn: A standout dish with salty and sour notes, though the sourness was slightly pronounced. The deep-fried prawn head was the highlight. Potato with Caviar: Luxury redefined. The potato was used creatively, and the caviar added richness. The pairing with non-alcoholic wine was spot-on. Scallop: Accompanied by XO and butter sauces, this was a perfectly cooked and exceptionally accomplished dish. Brioche with Chicken Fat Butter: Coated in honey and date ginger, this was hot, delicious, and impressively laminated. However, the butter felt unnecessary and might have paired better with simpler bread. Truffle with Maitake Mushroom: A Parmesan foam and a generous amount of truffle delivered a distinct flavour – like walking through a European forest.

Library – Final Courses Sea Bream: Well-cooked but slightly underwhelming. The skin was soggy, and the crispy topping, while tasty, had a texture reminiscent of bone, making it tricky to eat. Venison: A triumph! East meets West with inspired dim sum on the side and impeccable cookery throughout. Cheese: A blue cheese tart, rich and indulgent, paired brilliantly with the non-alcoholic port. Strawberry and Cream: A light, beautiful dessert that allowed the cream to shine. Chocolate: Balanced with tea-flavoured ice cream, this dish was rich yet airy. The non-alcoholic Pedro Ximénez pairing was exceptional. Tea and Cake: Delightful sodden tea-flavoured cakes. Chocolate Tart: Exquisitely balanced and satisfying. Petit Fours: A delightful conclusion to an unforgettable meal.

Prepare to leave with a very full belly, a heart full of gratitude, and memories of not only the incredible food but also the brilliant soundtrack that added a personal touch. A big thank you to everyone whose hard work and commitment were evident and highly valued in such an enjoyable fine...

Elements were incredible and others, less so.

The service was fantastic. Really friendly and attentive. Whilst being professional and very diligent, it didn’t come across as stuffy which was a pleasant surprise. It was a real pleasure interacting with everyone at the restaurant. As we were celebrating my wife’s birthday, the team very kindly brought her a little cake/pastry and a bouquet of flowers which was just incredibly kind of them and entirely unnecessary BUT very, very appreciated.

Food and Wine: Overall, the was no clear progression to the menu, it was a mix of simple flavours that underwhelmed. Incredibly generous pours though. Let’s break down the food.

Langoustine and uni was paired with sake but the wine totally overpowered the dish. As it was creamy, rich and salty, a glass of champagne would have paired perfectly with it.

The prawn dish was nice on its own but again, overpowered by the punchy white chateauneuf du pape. A higher acidity white would’ve worked far better, maybe a txakoli.

Potato with caviar. Not as much flavour as you’d expect, the potato was slightly undercooked for my liking and yet still lacked texture. The sauvignon blanc pairing overpowered the dish. A glass of chablis or any unoaked chardonnay would have worked far better.

The scallop dish was delicious and actually worked really well with the gewurztraminer.

Bread and fermented hatta wine. Delicious pairing, by far the best thing of the night.

The venison dish was ok. Classic but boring. The red wine (I forget the grape variety) totally overpowered the dish. The dim sum was actually delicious but the main plate less so. The somm offered us a choice of two completely different pairings (which is already a red flag) and when challenged on which wine would work better, he claimed that both do. We got one of each and tried both. Neither did in fact work which was unsurprising.

The blue cheese tartlet with tawny port. Classic pairing and it worked ok. Trouble is you get a very heavy pour of the port but the tartlet is tiny and the blue cheese flavour comes through somewhat subtly, rendering the wine pairing a little too strong.

The pre-dessert was delicious, wonderful palate cleanser. The night could have ended there and we would have been very happy.

The chocolate and sweet potato dessert was confused. It had no idea what it actually is and it really came through in the flavour. I think the idea was to go for something a bit more interesting but it failed miserably. The pairing was far too acidic too, arguably the worst dish of the night and one of the worst desserts I’ve ever had in a fine dining restaurant.

The petite fours were mostly pleasant. The tea and cake (madeleines) were actually wonderful and such a nice touch. The only downside was the chocolate tartlet which tasted like a burnt brownie, completely unnecessary.

Overall, the format of the evening and the service was wonderful. The issue was very much the food and wine. Having been to two other restaurants owned by Jason Atherton, which don’t have the accolades that Row on 45 does, we were very disappointed with the food. I think in an effort to be different and interesting, the restaurant missed the point of making the food delicious first, before adding any additional “excitement” to it.

Wouldn’t recommend, far better Michelin restaurants in Dubai including Moonrise, Smoked Room, Tasca and Avatara (some of my...

Reservation process: Communicated with the team on the morning before dinner that night. No slot available on their booking website. Not a guarantee, of course, but so far, they have the most flexible reservation. And they accept solo diners, contrary to those pretentious restaurants requiring a minimum of two.

Location: Situated in a hotel, I honestly thought they're one of those restaurants simply riding on a top-tier hotel, and it's going to be another boring floor to go to. Turns out their restaurant floor was strategically sectioned to create that journey within the restaurant. The table transfers made it feel like it's such a huge restaurant, alongside beautifully crafted ambience.

Food: Divine. The photos would not match, but the entire course was consistently served excellently.

Service: I don't like an overly chatty staff/crew, so I appreciate that they wait for me to initiate the conversation unless obviously necessary. I love that they leave a small towel to every single finger food served.

Surprise element: Though my first two views were the bartender and the kitchen, respectively, and enjoyed both, the third one caught me off-guard. It was a floor-to-ceiling, wall-to-wall glass window overviewing the beautiful marina in a mood-lit, cigar room type of ambience.

Parting gift: Of course, who wouldn't want a nice little trinket to relish the restaurant hangover. They sent me a nice pastry, with the menu on a wax-sealed letter I didn't slice open at the start of the dinner course and the QR code of the 90s playlist that night (totally my jam but the executive chef sharply said no when I asked him if it was his playlist). Although, I think I can only remember one restaurant that is in Yountville, CA, (review in my profile) that asks you which sweets you would like to be served on your table and then, as a surprise, sends all of it (including those you didn't pick) in a box for you. Because, honestly, you would want to taste all of it, those little chocolates/tarts, but you're just too full to have a go.

Accolades: A double Michelin star, but from what I gather, they only opened a...