21/09/2025
In the right mood, you might say the eclecticism of the stretch of Western Road between Preston Street and Palmeira Square is part of its charm: Syrian bakeries and Moroccan shisha bars jostling for space with independent florists and quirky cafés. Feeling less generous - or more cynical - you might feel the impact of some of the less inspiring outlets - crudely-named and garishly-painted off licences and mini-marts; ever-rotating facades of vape shops, nail bars, phone repair huts - contribute to an overall impression of a bit of a no-man’s-land between central Brighton and Hove.
Either way, Apiary is incongruous. Sharing a frontage with the front door of a taxi service it is consequently tiny - and currently obscured by great frames of scaffolding - a real blink and you’ll miss it. But if you don’t, you can’t help but notice the touch of class to its sleek black exterior, the golden droplets of bee-themed detail: its honeycomb logo, the hive-shaped lanterns hanging in the front window. The feeling of incongruity is only heightened when you step inside, as we did, from Saturday lunchtime sunshine: Apiary is four things in one - “CAFE | BAR | KITCHEN | RETAIL” - and it’s the second of these its interior serves best: high seating, low lighting, more black-and-gold, more hexagons.
The reason I’m using so much of my Google-imposed character limit for scene-setting is because it’s representative of the whole Apiary modus operandi, essentially “if you’re gonna do something, do it properly”. The "two passionate beekeepers" who run it have clearly applied the energy that can only be generated through a labour of love to everything that goes with designing a restaurant experience, and it shows in the attention to detail in the décor (bee-coloured speakers), the service (allowing this group of old friends to gossip for half an hour before even contemplating an order), the menu (bitter-sweet symph-honey is an outstanding name for a lemon/honey cocktail), the drinks (artfully drizzled with pollen) and, most importantly, the food.
Most of us went for the set menu as it offers, quite frankly, ridiculous value. I didn’t, because I was of the opinion that once you’ve had one croquette or fried cauliflower bite you’ve had them all. I was wrong as regards the croquettes in particular - light and delicate and crispy but bodily cheesy too - but completely vindicated, as the ceviche tostada I got instead was one of the best starters I’ve had anywhere in Brighton. I’d have been happy with the chunky citrus-cured bream cubes alone but with a bit of radish and pickled chilli and the thick, almost charcoal-y cracker it all came on, it became the kind of dish, in the days since, I have genuinely found myself daydreaming about.
The chicken thigh for main was not quite as outstanding - if pushed I’d call the skin a little fatty and under-crisped - but still very enjoyable, especially when able to delve into lovely griddled courgettes and bowls of new potatoes so delicious they have single-handedly revised my opinion on the what were previously understood to be the runts of the starchy litter. The cocktails and puddings were great too. I don’t really get - especially as someone very firmly in the savoury camp - how almost everything had some form of honey in it, without ever seeming monotonous or oversweet; in fact it all felt wholly appropriate and thought out - there's that attention to detail again.
The only slightly disappointing thing was how empty the place was - and for once I felt disappointed on behalf of the restaurant, as opposed to my selfish need for the right 'ambiance' while dining. It really deserved - and I’ve been so restrained all review so excuse this pun - to have more of a buzz to it. So get yourself down there. Try the mead. Get the flatbreads while you decide what to drink. Take a bottle of something home. Support your local independents, because this is exactly the sort of endeavour that everyone would really miss if and when the huge chains of the world...
Read moreApiary in Brighton: A Culinary Jewel with a Sweet Touch
Nestled in the heart of Brighton, Apiary offers a dining experience that is as enchanting as its name suggests. Drawing inspiration from the delicate world of bees and honey, this gem of a restaurant delights guests with a menu that is both innovative and soul-satisfying.
A Menu Dripping with Creativity
Apiary's menu is a testament to the culinary potential of honey and bee-related ingredients. The restaurant seamlessly integrates honey into a variety of dishes, each crafted to highlight the nuanced sweetness and rich complexity that this natural ingredient offers.
Starters:
Honey-Glazed Halloumi: This dish sets the tone for an unforgettable meal. The halloumi is perfectly seared, with a golden honey glaze that adds a delightful caramelized crunch, balanced with a touch of acidity from a balsamic reduction. Bee Pollen Salad: A fresh and vibrant salad featuring mixed greens, seasonal fruits, and a sprinkle of bee pollen. The subtle floral notes of the pollen elevate the dish, making it a refreshing start to your culinary journey.
Main Courses:
Honey and Thyme Roasted Chicken: Succulent and flavourful, the chicken is marinated in a blend of honey and thyme, then roasted to perfection. The honey enhances the natural juices of the meat, creating a savory and slightly sweet dish that is sure to please. Beef Brisket with Honey BBQ Sauce: Slow-cooked to tender perfection, the brisket is served with a house-made honey BBQ sauce that strikes the perfect balance between sweet and tangy, leaving you craving more with every bite.
Desserts:
Lavender Honey Cheesecake: This dessert is a true showstopper. Creamy cheesecake infused with lavender honey rests on a graham cracker crust, topped with a drizzle of honey that adds a touch of sweetness without overwhelming the palate. Honeycomb Ice Cream: A delightful end to any meal, this house-made ice cream features crunchy honeycomb pieces embedded in a smooth, creamy base, offering a textural contrast that is both fun and delicious.
Exceptional Customer Service
Beyond the culinary delights, what truly sets Apiary apart is its outstanding customer service. From the moment you step through the door, you are welcomed by a warm and friendly staff eager to ensure your dining experience is nothing short of perfect.
The staff’s knowledge of the menu is impressive; they can provide detailed descriptions and recommendations that suit your taste preferences. They are attentive without being intrusive, always ready to refill a glass or provide an extra napkin before you even realize you need one.
The ambiance of Apiary is cozy and inviting, with decor that subtly nods to its bee-inspired theme. Soft lighting, comfortable seating, and thoughtfully arranged tables create an intimate atmosphere, perfect for both casual meals and special occasions.
A Must-Visit in Brighton
Apiary is more than just a restaurant; it’s an experience that celebrates the harmony of flavors inspired by nature. Whether you’re a local or a visitor to Brighton, Apiary promises a memorable dining adventure where exceptional food and exemplary service combine to create a truly special place.
In summary, Apiary is a culinary haven that showcases the versatility and beauty of honey in its dishes, all while providing top-notch customer service in a charming setting. It's a sweet spot you won’t...
Read moreDelicious!!!
A feast for the eyes and palate….the worker bees in this kitchen know their way around a small plate or two.
A party of four, 1 chef, 2 foodies and a grazer enjoyed…..
The stunning Smorrebrod, deliciously fresh, light and clean tasting. A classic combination of salmon, dill and beetroot with a thick creamy lemony yoghurt on a rye base topped with pickled radish….Just beautiful!
Three cheese toastie, all you’d want from a toastie and then some….a cheesy dream. I didn’t try the walnut ketchup but it was all polished off.
Sourdough and honey selection ordered with a side of whipped Feta which for me took it to the next level….a tangy sweet combo that got the taste buds dancing. I took a jar of honey home…..nearly gone!
The tomatoey Queen butterbeans toast was just right. The crispy kale lifted the dish with a salty crunch which was divine!
Earthy yet sweet tasting perfectly cooked wild mushroom toast with butterbean hummus. A subtle hit of garlic and thyme chased with roasted tomatoes for a taste and texture treat.
I’m making myself hungry, I need to go!
Amazing food, chilled vibe and lovely...
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