Skosh — Restaurant in England

No need for fuss, candles or flowers... I never expected that the dish that impressed me the most in my culinary journey in England would not come from a fancy fine dining restaurant, or from any expensive ingredients. It came from a broccoli - a vegetable that in Vietnam, we often just boil briefly to get through the meal or stir-fry as a side dish next to meat or fish. But at Skosh, York, broccoli is no longer a side dish. It becomes a main character. I still remember the moment the plate was placed in front of me. Small, beautiful, and unpretentious. But every detail seemed to have been carefully calculated. The broccoli was fried in tempura until golden brown, the crispy layer retained the fresh green taste of the vegetable, but did not overwhelm the layers of aroma behind. I felt the salty but delicate taste of homemade salt, a salt that not only has taste, but also has memories of the region. Garlic crumbs, fermented black beans, Sichuan pepper, chili stewed in sherry,... all like a jazz orchestra playing an impromptu piece: each instrument sounded at the right time, at the right frequency, no one overshadowed anyone, no one rushed.

I ate very slowly because I didn't want to miss any details. At the bottom was a layer of rice wine vinegar gel, mildly sour, clean, like a slight retreat to enhance the flavor. On top, umami mayonnaise and a bit of lemon zest were dotted, delicately like a light, cool ending but made my heart flutter forever. I suddenly wondered why people often play jazz music in restaurants like that. Maybe because this dish is also a jazz piece: free, emotional, full of improvisation but not at all confusing. The chefs at Skosh didn't overwhelm me with showy techniques. They silenced me, by telling a story. And the thing is: they told that story through an extremely humble ingredient. Back in Vietnam, I have yet to find a restaurant, even in the fine dining segment, that can make me feel such a deep understanding of ingredients. At Skosh, there is no attempt to be “gourmet,” no flashy, empty technique. There is only a quiet attachment to the ingredients, a patience to understand, to listen, to bring it to the plate in the most beautiful and kind way. What I see clearly in a real open kitchen, where I see the chef prepare my dish in the soft, cinematic light. Very British. I learned that uniqueness does not come from price or complexity. It comes from kindness in thinking, from depth of understanding, and from the ability to tell a clear story through the dish. A simple dish, if prepared with heart, will always be remembered. And sometimes, that's why people come back, not the wine or the...

Skosh: A Gastronomic Delight in York

Skosh, a prime eatery nestled in the heart of York, is an absolute must-visit for food enthusiasts. From the moment we stepped inside, we were captivated by the fantastic and cosy ambiance that enveloped us. The staff at Skosh were incredibly helpful and knowledgeable, guiding us through an unforgettable culinary journey.

The journey began with a revelation - the "hen's egg - summer field, onion & px sherry." This dish proved to be an absolute gem, a perfect choice to kickstart our multi-course experience. We discovered that sharing was encouraged for all other dishes, and we eagerly indulged in the tantalizing creations that awaited us.

The paratha with whipped aubergine brinjal & curry leaf was a delightful combination of flavors, showcasing the chef's skillful mastery. The saddleback pork dumplings, with their tomato, mint, and coriander Orkney infusion, were an explosion of savory goodness.

One dish that left a lasting impression was the crab papads with fennel and sorrel. The crispy lobster roll with pickled ginger provided a delightful contrast of textures and tastes. The sprouting broccoli tempura, accompanied by salted chili and lemon tahini, was a revelation in vegetarian cuisine.

The grilled asparagus, with its yuzu kosho, binchotan cream, and furikake, offered a harmonious blend of delicate flavors. Finally, we savored the spice roast lamb belly, perfectly complemented by pak choi, pomegranate, and pickled onion, bringing our food fiesta to a satisfying conclusion.

To enhance our dining experience, we enjoyed the exquisite Rum Lassi cocktail, crafted with expertise and finesse. Its impeccable blend of flavors proved to be a true gem, so much so that we couldn't resist having a couple more.

Skosh in York is undoubtedly a culinary gem that deserves every bit of praise it receives. The exceptional ambience, coupled with the knowledgeable and attentive staff, creates an environment that enhances the enjoyment of the meticulously crafted dishes. Our gastronomic adventure at Skosh was an unforgettable experience, leaving us with a longing to return and explore more of their culinary wonders. No wonder for six years consecutive its Michelin...

Having read Jay Rayner’s glowing review of Skosh in The Observer, a friend and I travelled to York last month to see what all the fuss was about.

Skosh is a small restaurant that’s modern, friendly and surprisingly informal. An open kitchen overlooks the buzzing restaurant, where customers are served small plates inspired by Japanese and Middle-Eastern cuisine. With high hopes, we took to our table and ordered a selection of dishes, including some of Jay Rayner’s recommendations. We sat excitedly, waiting for small plates with big flavours to arrive.

The food appeared and we sat silently as we tucked away each dish. Occasionally we’d look up from our plates to find each other looking baffled and bemused. Were we missing something?

We had seven courses that evening, and each one significantly lacked punch and flavour (a remarkable feat considering Skosh’s association with Japanese and Middle-Eastern cuisine). The dishes were excellently cooked and (for the most part) well presented. What a shame that the flavours were so mild and unremarkable.

We sampled the 'Hen’s Egg' (tasty cheese custard, but the toasted crumb and bitter onions clashed); the 'Sea Trout, Apple, Fennel and Smoked Eel' (raw slices of fish served warm, the smokiness of the eel completely absent); and the 'Skosh Fried Chicken with Brown Butter Mayonnaise' (succulent chicken, lacking spice). The House Sourdough was also served with butter and a ‘Gunpowder’ spice that failed to live up to its fiery name.

The lowest point of the menu, however, was the Curried Mussels & Lime Pickle. A poorly realised cup of fish curry whose stodgy texture and presentation was more akin to that of a Pot Noodle. Was it a deliberate and ironic wink to the much-maligned pot snack? The mussels weren’t fresh and the flavour of the lime was criminally absent too. I struggled to finish it.

Having felt similarly disappointed with two desserts (one sweet and one savoury), we left the restaurant frustrated and underwhelmed. What had Jay Rayner experienced that night when he fell in love with Skosh? I fear we’ll...