Counter- — Restaurant in Charlotte

Long overdue review! Incredible dining experience from start to finish. Priced in line with others of this caliber of tasting menu and quality/rarity of the ingredients used. I moved to Charlotte from DC mid-pandemic, and this is the kind of experience I’ve missed. But it’s also very different from anything else I’ve experienced anywhere. I’ve been fortunate to go twice so far, 2 years apart, very different and both excellent.

My tips, for you and my next visit:

look at current and upcoming menus, choose, and reserve promptly, ;many sell out well in advance. Check their social media, because they sometimes have last minute spots you can purchase. Also, some menus I think are only announced on Instagram..The last one I went to — The Players Ball, inspired by the music of Outkast—- was only served for a few days, and I just saw it once on social media. I wouldn’t go with more than four people in a group. I may even go solo next time so I’m more focused on all that’s happening.. No tables, it’s a big counter, like sitting at a bar, so it’s intrinsically social even if you don’t know anyone. get the wine pairing! And perhaps plan to have a ride home (if you drink). I’m not a wine expert, but the pairing is impeccable IMO. They’re described in detail as they’re poured, and we get a list of all of them. Some varietals I thought I wouldn’t like but was pleasantly surprised after tasting them with the corresponding course.. be ready to take it in with all your senses. Not just the taste of the food, but purpose and description of each course, how it’s related to the theme, orchestration of how it’s served, music accompanied with the course, and visual appeal. Every ingredient, texture, flavor, color, and sound is curated and intentional. My creative side appreciates that. it is a generous amount of food. Appetites vary, but the two times I’ve been, I’ve left there full and satisfied. And maybe a little tipsy. get there on time, you do not want to miss a second of anything. It’s like being late for a guided tour and catching up with the group at the next stop. Or missing the first act of a play. the people that work there are amazing in how they can be calm and graceful as they interact with guests and one another in a dynamic environment..Last time I went, one of my dining companions failed to mention the one thing she cannot eat, after being asked several times before if she had any dietary restrictions (no clue why she didn’t say something before). My friend only informed the kitchen right as that course was coming out. Without any disruption, they discretely whipped up something equivalently impressive right away so that we could all enjoy the course at the same time. Like how?!! That said, don’t be like my friend, be sure to do this ahead of time when confirming your reservation so they’re even better prepared and reduce food waste! if you want pics, be ready to take video BEFORE each course starts so you’re already recording as they pour/serve/light something on fire. And then grab frames from that. But remember to be present and enjoy the experience as it’s happening too. this isn’t a tip but something to note: there is something special about the synergy of the people that are working there; each person is a collaborator on the menu, and celebrated for their contributions. This was most obvious when Chef Sam Hart introduced each person at the end of the meal. He had recently been announced as a James Beard best chef semi finalist, and humbly congratulated the team for being nominated. It’s a little thing but left an impression.

I just discovered a local artist and found out she previously had her work up at Counter-. They also contribute to nonprofit programs for children. I’m sure there is more that I’m not aware of, but sharing It’s beyond just the food at Counter-. Always a plus to know my money is going to community-conscious people.

TLDR: If you are a curious foodie, a creative, or someone who appreciates experiences, Counter- is definitely worth the splurge....

I've waited a few days to post this review, as I wanted to more fully reflect on the meal. My expectations were very high, with the Chef's recent James Beard victory only heightening them. I'll use 2* Michelin restaurants in Europe as the bar, as Counter's price point and culinary aspirations are best aligned with that marker. Against that standard, I left feeling okay about my dinner, but perhaps a bit underwhelmed.

Food (4) - Counter was featuring a vegetarian menu when I dined, which seemingly isn't a problem onto itself as it forces the restaurant to be top of its game given that there are fewer elements one can work with (not only proteins, but also the varied culinary techniques and sauces that so often define high-end fine dining). Unfortunately, none of the dishes really blew me away (though the visual artistry of the pastry chef's root vegetable spiral tart was pretty impressive). Virtually every dish had been prepared in advance as there was very little cooking going on in the kitchen during the service. Several of the dishes came out lukewarm. Despite 11 courses, I left feeling less than full and nearly turned into a Chick-Fil-A on my drive back to the hotel.

Wine (3) - I was expecting more here, especially at the price point for the pairing. Seven glasses were poured, and to describe the pours as spartan would be generous. The wines were from the usual suspect regions and varietals, so nothing especially groundbreaking here.

Service (5) - patrons are greeted warmly in the waiting area and are engaged by the staff throughout the meal. Explanations for each course (or pouring) were provided, frequently by the individual who had conceived of and/or prepared the dish. The Chef is available throughout and has significant interaction with the customers.

Atmosphere (4) - as the name suggests, it's essentially a large U-shaped counter in which the guests are seated. The space has an industrial feel, which works well. Paintings are hung on the restaurant's walls which the Chef will refer to throughout the evening. I didn't find there to be anything especially distinctive regarding the lighting, flooring, upholstery etc like you might find in similar restaurants.

Experience (5) - this is a new category, and one in which I think Counter effectively creates and defines the category by introducing story-telling, music and artwork into the meal. It's quite novel, and takes the dining experience into something more approaching theater. While the Chef does much of the story-telling, I love how he involves other members of his culinary team in the interactions with the diners throughout the evening.

Note that everything runs like clockwork - the meal begins exactly at the indicated time (for all 15-20 guests) and, when it ends...it ends. No lingering about over a bottle of wine or endless cups of coffee. I gather that's because the next group is queuing and getting ready to come in.

Lastly, I should note that it's a tough place to have a conversation. If you want to talke to your partner about having a baby or quitting your job, best to go elsewhere. Why? Well, there are numerous interruptions as courses are served (and wines poured), courses (and wines) are explained, stories are told and music is played (sometimes quite loudly). So, like theater, you go to observe and enjoy...and to keep quiet during the performance.

Net-net, I'll give Counter another try on my next Charlotte visit when the menu flips to something less confining, though think I'll just buy a botle of wine rather than partake in the...

Let me start off by saying I love food. I spend all day thinking of food and cooking food. So needless to say, when my husband surprised me for my birthday with this dinner (that poor man has listened to me rave about this place for quite some time), I was beyond excited!

We were fortunate enough to go to Counter on the last day of the Street Food menu. From beginning to end, the entire experience was amazing. By being greeted at the door by Chef Hart and meeting each of the other lovely staff members, you feel like a family member right when you walk in the door. Each course is lovingly served to you and described by Chef Hart and his team. The amount of thought that goes into developing these dishes, the time it must take these incredible chefs to curate each product, and then prepare each dish with such excellence – I was blown away! We have eaten at other highly-awarded restaurants before, including Michelin star restaurants, and Counter is well-deserving of its current accolades and I can’t wait to see them keep rolling in!

We also had the wine pairings, which were wonderful. The selections were great and the staff seemed to choose wines that not only tasted well with the dishes, but were from wineries and vineyards that ascribe to Counter’s food philosophy. Also, we loved our little takeaways we received: first, a fun passport with the countries featured in the Street Food menu; second, a printout of the menu and the wine pairings that was signed by each member of the team; and third a to-go snack/treat for later. These were nice touches and really showed the level of thought that goes into the entire experience.

In addition to the food and ambiance, it seemed like Chef Hart clearly cares for and values each of his team members. This is important! In a battered service industry, restaurants are frequently understaffed and to be honest, often filled with unhappy staff and guests. This couldn’t have been further from the truth at Counter. The staff were happy, the service was impeccable, and it all showed in the food!

Maybe some non-foodies will not understand, but there were a few times throughout the night that my husband and I both were almost brought to tears. This is what food and eating out should be- an experience that elicits surprise and delight with creative food pairings and preparation methods and makes you crave for more! Without a doubt, we will come back to...