Dominick's

In a traditional Italian-American neighborhood (called Arthur Avenue) near Fordham University and The Bronx Zoo in The Bronx, NY, is an old school Italian restaurant that serves from a menu that is only proudly recited by the waiters, often with delightfully wry Bronx humor. There will be an array of chef's choices offered as specials -- but of course if you have a favorite meal, you can always ask. The wine is served in unpretentious little wine glasses and you or your group may be seated on one of two floors at long tables. On busy days, the din of multi-generational groups (it's kid noises friendly), tourists and neighbors lends it a sparky, lively, cafe atmosphere where everyone seems to have a smile for the groups at the next tables. If you prefer a quieter or romantic outing, try to stop by on a weekday or when weather is colder. (Over 30 years, I have occasionally seen lines running out the door and up the block on weekends, since many urban insiders know it's well worth it. ) Three of us spent $150 for everything (wine) but dessert. We ordered appetizers to chow on with the bread that's brought to the table and a simple leafy green salad. Entrees included perfectly tender calimari in a marinara, plump meatballs and fresh linguine and a somewhat complex bolognese sauce on pasta -- and all in generous portions. (Be sure to bring cash). After dinner at Dominick's, you'll want to stop by Gino's Bakery to stock up on everything from sesame almond biscotti to layered pastries that are inscribed in frosting on the top -- 'Chaz'. This is one of the pastries that has been a favorite of Gino's most famous (almost most famous?) customers, Chaz Palmieri, and several are often reserved for his visit later in the afternoon. We ran into Mr. Palmieri, screenwriter (A Bronx Tale) and actor, at the dizzyingly abundant green market across the street. We didn't want to bother him, but snapped a quick photo.

Every visit to Arthur Avenue is an adventure of a new kind (we often get fresh pasta or a crusty fresh-baked bread, mascarpone and fennel -- or we'll pick out gifts that might include imported Italian sausages, prosciutto and cheeses.) This is a daytrip that still offers an authentic New York neighborhood experience that will make your heart sing. Oh, street parking, as you might guess, is in demand but we have always found a spot so far, some days closer than others. Be sure to bring cash.