Persimmon — Restaurant in Providence

celiac information in review

Food 10/10 Service 10/10 Value 10/10

See the sights. Learn the history. Do what locals do. Drink how locals drink. Good basic guidelines to follow when traveling. But when I am out of town, there is one thing that I crave above all. A delicious meal cooked with thoughtfulness, and care. And in Providence, Rhode Island, I found that at persimmon. A modest and comfortable decor, the design is warm and inviting. It set the stage for what would be an amazing meal prepared by a Chef/owner who just cares so f*#$ing much. The seasonal menu had many delicious descriptions, it made it difficult to make any kind of decision. But at the very end, my wife and I saw that we could do a 5 course tasting menu for $80 and add a wine pairing for $45 more. My wife has celiac so we always have questions about what can be served.when the server approached, my wife asked for the gluten free options (most of the menu is gluten free as it consists mostly of whole, natural, seasonal foods). But then my wife threw a curveball... "Can the chef do the tasting menu "gluten-free"?" Without hesitation the server said "yes he can, but I will just double check since this is an allergy and not a preference." She returned shortly and confirmed that this wouldn't be a problem. I received the normal tasting menu, but my wife absolutely loved her meal. The fact that the chef stepped up, and delivered a nearly flawless celiac-friendly tasting menu means so much to us because often allergy accomodations just mean excluding an essential piece of flavor. But back to the program. Okay chef... Let's see what you're made of....

Food: Two amuse-busch we're served. First was a house salami topped with grain mustard and a sliver of shallot(I think) lovely texture and flavor. Served at the optimal temperature. Second, was a crispy salmon skin served with roe and creme fresh. Lovely. The salmon skin did not have the same rich greasy texture I have found in crispy salmon skin in the past.

First course: Summer vegetable "gazpacho" - this dish was an incredible representation of summer vegetables. Never have I tasted herbs and vegetables blast off with freshness in the way the chef presented this. Glowing with tomato, snap peas, cucumber, basil, mint, and the addition of Maine red crab. (I'm sure I'm missing more) pressed in an island surrounded with a blissful and aromatic tomato water. This... Blew... My ... Mind.

Second course: Pan seared scallop - sitting on a bed of other seafoods (clam and mussel the most notable) and graced with a seafood bouillabaisse butter. It was beautifully decadent while allowing each ingredient to sing in a chorus of flavor.

Third course: Ravioli with stracciatella... It gets better... Come spring garnishes (don't know what was in it, but was flavorful and balanced the richness) and a pecorino emulsion....

Well-refined New American fare with excellent hospitality.

Finally stopped by for dinner after hearing countless good reviews. With multiple James Beard Best Chef nominations in the Northeast, Chef-owner Champe Speidel is a well-known name, and our expectations were high. A great technician without unnecessary theatrics, his culinary philosophy was reflected through the menu—somewhat echoing the feel of Boston’s top New American restaurants while maintaining a distinct identity. Rather than chasing avant-garde trends, the selection was a good mix of impeccably executed classics such as the spaghetti bolognese and experimental twists like the crispy pork belly paired with pho broth.

We started with a few of their most popular small plates, and our favorites were the chilled foie gras and the salmon belly tartare.The Foie Gras Crème Caramel had the silky richness of foie but was as delicate as the custard inside a caramel cream bun. The umami was subtle, and the cornbread crumbles on top reinforced that dessert-like impression. The salmon belly tartare was a well-executed and satisfying combination—essentially extra-fatty salmon atop a classic caviar and crispy potato base, and we both enjoyed it.

Unfortunately, two of their signature dishes were a bit disappointing—the black spaghetti and the stuffed chicken breast. I personally love bottarga-based pasta, so the spaghetti was my most anticipated dish. Instead of being fully incorporated into the sauce, the bottarga was chopped into small bits, which left the flavors uneven. The pasta itself leaned dry and could have benefited from more oil for better cohesion. As for the chicken, I wasn’t sure why it was labeled "stuffed"—there was nothing inside. Still, the chicken was incredibly tender, and while a bit salty on its own, the glazed vegetables and potato purée helped balance the flavors.

The foie gras entrée, on the other hand, was excellent. The classic fruit-and-foie combination worked well, but the highlight was the braised duck, presented as a sausage, which added depth and a touch of tartness that complemented the foie beautifully.

For dessert, we opted for the Torta di Riso. Personally, I’m not a fan of sweet rice pudding, and the cold, grainy rice texture in each bite was off-putting. However, the smoked vanilla bean ice cream and toasted meringue on the side? Absolute fire.

I’m still getting familiar with the dining scene in Providence, so I can’t confirm whether this is truly the city’s best restaurant. But so far, it’s the best I’ve experienced, and I’d gladly return next time...

My wife and I live in Seattle, Washington and Scottsdale, Arizona, but am a frequent visitor in Providence, Rhode Island. Persimmon has moved from its previous smaller location in Bristol to its new location in the Fox Hill neighborhood of Providence. At our most recent visit there on July 13,2022, we ordered deviled eggs with trout roe, cornbread with foie gras butter, beet salad, and salmon tartare as out first courses, followed by sweetbreads, foie gras, and agnolotti with lemon, ricotta, fresh English peas, and Australian black truffle as our second course. For dessert, we had a tart with summer berries, pistachio crumble, and rhubarb mousse, topped with goat's milk yogurt ice cream, and lime cheesecake with coconut crust, naval orange, and yuzu pudding. The deviled eggs were a little heavy on mustard which somewhat overpowered the trout roe, but were otherwise quite good. Over the years, as a serious home cook, I’ve refined lots of variations on develed eggs. My wife’s comment on the deviled eggs at Persimmon: “They’re good, but not nearly as good as yours.” On the other hand, the beet salad, versions of which I also often make, was amazing. I almost overruled my wife’s wish to order it. That would have been a big mistake. The cornbread with foie gras butter? Wonderful. The salmon tartare? Also wonderful. The sweetbreads were probably my biggest disappointment of the night. They were overcooked, too firm and too dry, probably because they were parboiled before grilling them and then spent a little too much time on the grill. I’ve had much better sweetreads elsewhere. The fois gras, on the other hand, was wonderful, especially due to the shredded duck neck meat underlying the foie gras. Genius! The agnolotti with fresh English peas, lemon, ricotta, and Australain truffles was nice, but the truffles were not worth the $30 surcharge. Both of the desserts were good, but I was especially enamored with the berry tart with the underlying rhubarb mousse adding a nce tartness to the dish. Bottom line: I have some quibbles here and there, but would put Persimmon in the top tier of Providence restaurants. They aim high, and even if they don’t always hit the bullseye, they come close enough, often enough, that I will happily return there when I’m...