Waterzooi Belgian Bistro & Oyster Bar — Restaurant in Town of Hempstead

The brick archways of Waterzooi Belgian Bistro frame an unlikely scene: commuters rushing past on Franklin Avenue while inside, patrons slurp Long Island oysters beneath vaulted ceilings that wouldn't look out of place in medieval Bruges.

This Garden City institution, now in its third decade, occupies a curious position in Long Island's dining landscape. What began as three friends' quixotic mission to import Belgian beer culture has evolved into the region's most authentic European bistro experience—though not without growing pains that become particularly evident during happy hour.

The restaurant's origin story reads like culinary folklore. In 1996, Chris Werle, Jeff Piciullo, and chef Ed Davis toured Belgium's beer capitals, returning so enchanted they abandoned their successful Croxley Ale House concept to chase an impossible dream: convincing Long Islanders to embrace obscure Belgian brews over Budweiser. Locals predicted failure within months. Twenty-eight years later, Waterzooi has served 4.4 million pounds of mussels and earned Werle a knighthood from the Belgian Brewers Guild.

The oyster program, while secondary to their famous moules frites, reflects this same stubborn authenticity. Local bivalves arrive at $48 per dozen—Manhattan pricing that initially stings but begins making sense as you settle into the Euro Chic lounge. The recommended Petit Chenin Blanc pairing ($13 glass, $52 bottle) cuts through briny sweetness with surgical precision, its citrus notes echoing the restaurant's commitment to thoughtful curation over volume.

But happy hour at Waterzooi tests patience as much as palates. The acoustics, designed for intimate conversation, buckle under capacity crowds. Sound bounces off those Instagram-worthy brick arches, creating what regulars describe as "midtown Manhattan" noise levels. Kitchen clatter mingles with animated discussions about Belgian beer taxonomy, forcing diners to lean across closely spaced tables just to hear their companions.

Service oscillates between attentive professionalism and harried confusion. On good nights, servers demonstrate encyclopedic knowledge of the 130-beer selection, guiding novices through complex flavor profiles. On others, the same staff seems overwhelmed by simple requests, rushing tables through courses with corporate efficiency that clashes with the intended European leisure.

The contradiction extends to the space itself. Those architectural bones remain stunning—curved ceilings and warm lighting create genuine intimacy in a region dominated by chain restaurants. Yet the layout feels cramped, with narrow aisles forcing servers into awkward navigation between packed tables. The outdoor patio offers relief, but Garden City's suburban setting lacks the urban energy that might justify the Manhattan prices.

What saves the experience is the food's unwavering quality. Even skeptics acknowledge that few establishments match Waterzooi's commitment to authenticity. The oysters, while expensive, arrive impeccably fresh. The mussel preparations—twenty-three varieties at last count—showcase techniques learned during those formative Belgian expeditions. Each pot arrives with proper ceremony, servers ladling aromatic broths with genuine enthusiasm.

The beer program remains unmatched regionally. Watching Davis personally navigate the three-page Belgian menu with customers reveals the evangelical passion that built this empire. When he recommends a particular kriek to complement the shellfish selection, decades of expertise distill into genuine hospitality.

Ultimately, Waterzooi's happy hour embodies Long Island's broader dining evolution. A generation ago, this level of culinary ambition would have seemed preposterous in Garden City. Today, locals pack the bar despite complaints about noise and pricing, suggesting appetites have grown more sophisticated than anyone anticipated.

The restaurant succeeds not despite its contradictions, but because of them. It's simultaneously too loud and too intimate, too expensive and surprisingly worthwhile. For...

Recently I was in the area and got a recommendation from Open Table when I checked any open reservation slots. There were some slots left in the late evening and I waited for the confirmation and headed to the restaurant to check in on time. I understand that with all the safety protocols including limited indoor dining capacity, that reservation slots can disappear quickly (especially for popular restaurants).

When I had arrived, I found parking on the main road along Franklin Ave almost near the restaurant. What I did not realize was that is considered the rear as the check in podium is at the other end of the restaurant (parking on that side as well). Not a big deal as I got to see the layout of the restaurant and happy to see there were a good amount of people dining in.

When I got to the podium for check in, it was still quite busy even though it was late. The ladies handling reservation and customer check ins were occupied but acknowledged me when I approached. When someone freed up, I let them know I had a reservation and gave my name. They then told me they do not see my name at all. One of the ladies asked me if I was certain that I had made the reservation for Garden City and not another location. I showed them the confirmation email to prove that I certainly booked the correct restaurant. I felt a bit embarrassed as I was just standing there for seemed like a while. Then one of them says that the list updated and they found my reservation. This was the first time I had come across a situation like that and I understand there may have been technical issues or a delay. But the manner in which they acted...it was as if they were content with me just walking away when they did not see my name initially. After they found my name, they simply said that the tables were booked and I could sit at the bar. Aside from the issue with the reservation, the initial interaction when I arrived seemed very hurried and curt with no effort to make any apologies.

I made my way to the bar area. There were sections divided up. All the employees of course where wearing masks. The bartenders Max who was in my section greeted me and gave me a menu to look at. Their physical menu is like the Declaration of Independence (if you have seen it you know exactly what I mean). They are very popular for their seafood like mussels and clams (a couple on the other side of the divider next to me ordered that) but something else caught my eye, The escargot was very tempting at it is an appetizer that I had only ordered once before. You get six very savory snails for the order. Because I was pressed for time instead of one of the main entrees, I decided on the Korean bba St Louis ribs. I thought that it would be a bit spicy but the ribs were tasty and quite tender. It is best to eat them right away.

As it was already late when I arrived I still wanted to try the desserts there. They have a separate dessert menu. Their Ridiculous Belgian Triple Chocolate Cake is what they are known for so I had to definitely order that. The bartender Max, who was also my main server informed me that aside from what was on the menu, there were special off menu items available. This location has an in house pastry chef that I was not aware of. When he mentioned that there was a Boba Milk Tea Napolean that got my attention (it may or may not be available as of this review as certain menu items may be limited). The cake is a chocolate lover's dream but a lot even for me. I ended up taking part of it to go. I finished the Napolean as that was a more manageable dessert.

As I was leaving my seat, an employee rushed past me. I had to step back and nearly bumped into the divider. It was as if I was not even there.

Props to Max for his professional courtesy, diligence and recommendations during my visit. Besides the food, a major part of the experience in any establishment is the staff interaction and attitude. My experience for this review is probably not typical but it was...

I had an experience with Waterzooi that I would like to share. On November 22, 2021 we went here to celebrate my daughter’s birthday & my own. It was the most horrible of experiences I had ever had . The day after I had decided I would call the restaurant and see if I could speak to the manager. On my second call I did. I spoke to a young woman named Sarah. I explained in detail how horrible our experience At Waterzooi had been. She was very sympathetic & empathized on what we had been through . Sarah very quickly took action! At first she left it up to the owners to do the right thing. Well, they did not . They sent a gift card that couldn’t even pay for a starter meal at this establishment!! I decided to call her back and tell how disappointed and upset I was. I really thought this would not be resolved— and insult had been already added to injury. Sarah surprised me again!!!!! She asked what she could do to make this right. I said in plain English : “ A do over meal for the 3 of us …” . I told her to take some time to think about it. In less than 30 minutes , Sarah called back and asked me to please call her. I hesitated at first and was about to call it a day . After some thought , I decided to call her back. We all spoke with Sarah again . She wanted us to come back and HAVE DINNER ( 3 dinners , drinks, starters & desserts) on Waterzooi or receive a gift card comparable to what we had spent that terrible day. Sarah asked us to come in if we were going to have dinner there WHEN she was there to make sure this would be the experience Waterzooi was known for. We went back and we were greeted by the lovely Sarah. She gave us the red carpet treatment!!!! We had a wonderful time & Max the bartender made the best drinks -He was intelligent, generous & a pleasure to talk with. The food , atmosphere was EXCELLENT!!! At the end of our experience, I went up with my card to pay for any extra we had had— To my complete surprise, Sarah said : “ This is on us…” with a warm smile on her face. Sarah is an extremely intelligent and sincere young woman who possesses integrity which to me is in short supply these days . Additionally, she saved the reputation of this establishment— Simply because Sarah the manager of Waterzooi cares. Go visit Waterzooi for your dining pleasure and ask for Sarah - I guarantee you will not be disappointed!!! Sarah deserves a raise and promotion. And will go far in this world 🌎 Waterzooi is LUCKY to have her gracing their...