Review: Castello Brown, Portofino – A View to Enchant, A Story Untold
Visiting Castello Brown is a luminous experience in every sense. Perched high above Portofino’s impossibly picturesque harbour, the views alone are worth the climb — sweeping, sunlit vistas over the Ligurian coast, where the sea shimmers like silk and bougainvillaea spill over the old stone walls. The castle itself, with its terraced gardens, peaceful corners, and romantic architecture, offers a calm and atmospheric retreat from the bustling port below. It’s not difficult to see why so many artists, writers, and dreamers have been drawn to this place.
But there is one glaring omission. The very reason I, like so many others, made the journey was because of The Enchanted April — Elizabeth von Arnim’s magical novel, written here, and the deeply beloved 1992 film that was largely shot on site. The story and the setting are inextricably entwined. The castle is San Salvatore. You feel it in the stone steps, the arches, the light — everywhere. And yet, not a single mention is made of it within the castle walls. No plaque, no poster, no gentle nod to the novel or the film that have brought generations of readers and viewers here in search of that very enchantment.
It is a missed opportunity, and a surprising one at that. For a place so steeped in literary and cinematic history, one would expect at least a quiet acknowledgement of the role The Enchanted April has played in shaping its modern allure. To walk those gardens and sit beneath those trees without a word of that story felt like overhearing a beautiful song and never being told its name.
Still, the castle is exquisite, and the atmosphere unforgettable. But it could, with very little effort, offer something far richer — a deeper sense of connection for the many who come in search of that enchanted,...
Read moreFrom the moment you set foot inside Castello Brown, you are greeted with a sense of awe and wonder. The castle's well-preserved architecture, combined with its elevated position, provides visitors with panoramic views that are simply unparalleled. The sight of the azure waters of the Ligurian Sea blending harmoniously with the colorful buildings and lush greenery is a sight to behold.
The castle's interior is equally captivating, as it takes you on a journey through time. Each room is adorned with elegant furnishings, period artworks, and historical artifacts, all meticulously curated to reflect the castle's rich heritage. As you explore the different chambers, you can almost imagine the tales of knights, nobles, and seafaring adventurers who once graced these very halls.
One of the highlights of visiting Castello Brown is the impeccably manicured garden. The terraced landscape is a visual feast, boasting vibrant flowers, fragrant citrus trees, and meticulously trimmed hedges. This oasis of tranquility offers numerous benches and shaded areas where you can sit, relax, and soak in the breathtaking surroundings. It's an ideal spot to take memorable photographs or enjoy a picnic with loved ones. It is important to note that due to the castle's hilltop location, there are some steep paths and staircases to navigate. While this might pose a challenge for individuals with mobility issues, the enchanting experience awaiting you at the top is undoubtedly...
Read moreThe panoramic views from Castello Brown are truly spectacular. From the castle's vantage point, you can see the entire village of Portofino spread out below, with its colorful buildings clustered around the harbor. Beyond the village, the azure waters of the Ligurian Sea stretch out to the horizon, dotted with sailboats and yachts.
The the most popular way to reach Castello Brown is by hiking up from the village of Portofino. There are well-marked trails that lead from the center of Portofino up to the castle. The hike takes around 15-20 minutes and offers scenic views along the way. As you ascend, you'll pass through narrow streets and lush vegetation until you reach the castle at the top of the hill.
If you prefer not to hike, you can take a taxi or drive up to Castello Brown. There is a road that leads from the center of Portofino up to the castle, but please note that the road is narrow and winding, so it may not be suitable for large vehicles. Once you reach the top, there is limited parking available...
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