فخر الصناعة التقليدية الفاسية 🇲🇦👍 Historical Overview of the Tanneries in Fez The tanneries in Fez, especially the Chouara Tannery, are considered among the oldest and most famous tanneries in the world, forming an integral part of the city's historical and cultural fabric. Here's a historical overview: Origins and Establishment It is believed that the tanning industry in Fez dates back many centuries, with the Chouara Tannery likely established in the 11th century CE, a century after the founding of Fez in 789 CE. Some accounts suggest that tanneries existed in Fez from the very beginning of the city's foundation in the 9th century CE. Tanneries, including Sidi Moussa and Ain Azliten, were typically set up along wadi banks to benefit from the abundance of water. Traditional Methods For centuries, the tanneries in Fez have maintained their traditional tanning methods, with processes still carried out manually without modern machinery. This intricate process involves soaking hides in vats containing a mixture of cow urine, quicklime, salt, and water to soften them. The hides are then transferred to other vats containing natural dyes extracted from materials such as poppy (for red), indigo (for blue), and henna (for orange). After dyeing, the hides are spread out to dry under the sun. This ancient method highlights the skill and precision of Fez's artisans. Economic and Social Importance Throughout history, the tanning industry played a pivotal role in Fez's economy. Its high-quality leather products were exported to distant regions, such as Baghdad, in earlier centuries. Tanners also held significant social and political influence within the city, participating in national demonstrations at various times. Cultural Symbol and Tourist Landmark Despite the challenges facing this traditional craft in the modern era, the tanneries in Fez remain operational today and are considered a major tourist attraction. These tanneries offer visitors a unique opportunity to witness the leather tanning process using traditional methods that have remained largely unchanged over time, making them a living museum of authentic Moroccan craftsmanship. Furthermore, this industry contributes to supporting the local economy and preserving the city's...
Read moreSecond largest of the three tanneries in Fes. Well worth the visit which you can do one of three ways: with a tour guide, by visiting (or getting pulled into) one of the big leather shops, or by basically walking in and having a local worker shown you. The smell is atrocious but not intolerable. Tours give you some mint to sniff (clap it between your hands for stronger mint smell)
The first "should" run 250dh a half day or 450dh for full (private guide) where you'll see several places and get some fairly high pressure sales at each. The guys get commissions ... and they all work it.
Second: Visit the big leather shops which usually have balconies overlooking the tannery ... tip them 20-50dh if you don't plan to buy. They'll try to sell but are less pushy.
Third: If you just ignore the pushy guides you can basically just walk in (see maps image and arrow) at which point one of the local craftsmen (you won't see a craftswoman down there) will kind of insist on showing you around. They'll lead you but, you can go pretty much anywhere you want (at your own risk). They'll ask/insist on a tip for the 'security guard' or similar on the way out. I gave them 40dh to split between the 'guard' and worker and they seemed happy. It's by far the most realistic tour. Note: you're down walking between the vats with the actual workers, chemicals, skins, and pigeon poop. Dress and wash accordingly.
If you do buy leather, don't get ripped off. They'll price according to what they think they can get away with. Nothing has a marked price and this is very much on purpose. They all will explain about their artisan combine and they will all insist what they do is unique...even if it isn't really. Visit a few shops to learn your walk-away price before you commit to purchase. Don't feel bad either - you're playing their game, just with more even...
Read moreI went here 12 years ago and bought a camel leather bag that I loved and used daily for many years so I was excited to go back and get another. The tour is absolutely worth it but be careful buying here. Some of the leather good are authentically Moroccan, but I think a lot are now made in China or somewhere else to keep up with the demand from the huge increase in tourism in Morocco.
In my excitement I got scammed - bought a bag I was told was "camel belly" and that's why it was so soft. I bought it Friday Oct 11th 2024 and I'm writing this Tuesday Oct 22nd and it's already showing some cracks (see photo). Actual camel leather is very durable. There were warning signs and I should have known better, so here are some important things to check before you buy: is the color very uniform? If so, probably not made locally are there many versions of the bag all in plastic? If so, probably bought cheap somewhere else most importantly, DOES THE BAG SMELL LIKE SH*T? If it does, hooray! You found a real one! If it just smells like normal leather it's probably not local.
So make sure you pull the mint leaves out of your nose and give it a good deep sniff - my bag years ago smelled terrible for 2 weeks then settled down, and my husband's work bag also smells terrible (less so today) so at least we know that one is real!
If you're fine with an imported bag that's ok, but make sure you don't pay the "authentic" prices. Bargaining is part of the process and guides say you should start with countering with 1/3-1/2 of their initial asking price. But if you suspect the bag is a cheap knock-off, definitely drop that to way less!
I hope this saves some people from the disappointment of coming home with a poor quality bag. The bags that are actually made in Fez are beautiful, high quality,...
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