Second largest of the three tanneries in Fes. Well worth the visit which you can do one of three ways: with a tour guide, by visiting (or getting pulled into) one of the big leather shops, or by basically walking in and having a local worker shown you. The smell is atrocious but not intolerable. Tours give you some mint to sniff (clap it between your hands for stronger mint smell)

The first "should" run 250dh a half day or 450dh for full (private guide) where you'll see several places and get some fairly high pressure sales at each. The guys get commissions ... and they all work it.

Second: Visit the big leather shops which usually have balconies overlooking the tannery ... tip them 20-50dh if you don't plan to buy. They'll try to sell but are less pushy.

Third: If you just ignore the pushy guides you can basically just walk in (see maps image and arrow) at which point one of the local craftsmen (you won't see a craftswoman down there) will kind of insist on showing you around. They'll lead you but, you can go pretty much anywhere you want (at your own risk). They'll ask/insist on a tip for the 'security guard' or similar on the way out. I gave them 40dh to split between the 'guard' and worker and they seemed happy. It's by far the most realistic tour. Note: you're down walking between the vats with the actual workers, chemicals, skins, and pigeon poop. Dress and wash accordingly.

If you do buy leather, don't get ripped off. They'll price according to what they think they can get away with. Nothing has a marked price and this is very much on purpose. They all will explain about their artisan combine and they will all insist what they do is unique...even if it isn't really. Visit a few shops to learn your walk-away price before you commit to purchase. Don't feel bad either - you're playing their game, just with more even odds than most.