MSSM Yorkville — Restaurant in Toronto

My fiance and I do a joint birthday dinner each year as we are both late-October babies. We caught wind of MSSM opening up and decided it would be the spot this year.

It was a great experience overall, but a number of shortcomings in both the food and service prevented me from giving MSSM the full 5 stars.

First, it appeared the dinner service was running a bit late tonight as we were not seated until about 15 minutes after our arrival at our reservation time. MSSM is an intimate space without much room to spare, so diners from my time slot had to wait along the wall just behind the seated guests, often interfering with the busy staff despite our best efforts to stay out of the way. This delay normally would not bother me at all, except it seemed MSSM had to cut our experience short to compensate - read on to find out.

Let’s cover the food first. The first half of the sushi menu was average by omakase standards and not particularly memorable. The chef placed way too much yuzu into the akami sushi which completely masked the flavour of the fish, with my fiancé and I both feeling the need to cleanse our palette immediately afterwards because the yuzu was overpowering. The sushi rice was also not sticky enough and felt at risk of falling apart for some of the sushi pieces. Still, there were winners such as the pickled radish toro handroll, chawanmushi sushi, amaebi sushi, and toro sushi. The amaebi in particular was absolutely fantastic.

While the food was hit and miss compared to other omakase restaurants we have been to, the service during dinner service was top notch. Our chef was very deliberate in explaining what each piece was and very fun to converse with, and our waitress had impeccable attention to detail. We got a pot of sencha to go with our meal and our cups were always being topped up. I only had to pour from the kettle myself one single time during the hour-long dinner service despite my constant sipping - it was as if our waitress’ only task was to monitor the tea level in my cup. The wet wipe for cleaning my fingers was replaced twice within the hour so it was moist at all times. Props to our waitress. Wow.

Now back to the point about the delayed start to our dinner service. Our menu included a list of seasonal add-ons and I was very excited to try MSSM’s uni offerings. I was quite perplexed when we never got asked whether we wanted any of the add-ons. Dessert was served immediately after the standard sushi pieces, and we were immediately handed our bill once we finished eating the dessert. I can only assume MSSM needed us out of the restaurant to accommodate the next round of guests. I realize I could have taken the initiative to ask about the add-ons, but I found it very odd not have been given the opportunity or been asked by the chef.

Despite the minor shortcomings, my fiancé and I throughly enjoyed ourselves. MSSM is a great vibe and definitely worth checking out...

MSSM isn’t your traditional omakase restaurant. As you ascend the steps from Yorkville, the energy level of the restaurant matches the neighbourhood. At least three people yell out shari as you enter, which means ‘sushi rice’ in Japanese. There’s music pumping and in lieu of the typical wooden sushi bar the dining room contains white graffitied walls and pink neon lights. We aren’t in Tokyo anymore Toto.

Also, unlike typical omakase spots, the sushi bar is HUGE. It can easily accommodate twenty people with five chef stations laid out so that each are preparing food for about four customers. Despite the sheer number of patrons, there’s something intimate about being nestled in a group around one chef, in an instant he put me at ease with questions and jokes… conversations are encouraged here.

What also makes them different is the price point - $98 per person instead of the $200+ that you’ll usually pay. Chef Masaki Saito realized not everyone could afford (or get a reservation) to his two Michelin star restaurant, hence opened MSSM as a means of allowing more people to get to experience the art of omakase.

Traditions be damned, MSSM starts off their menu with a hand roll. Filled with finely chopped tuna and pickled radish wrapped with shiso leaf and freshly toasted nori, it’s an interesting and hearty way to start off.

The following bonito with apple onion sauce was too pungent for my liking with so many leeks, ginger, and chives. Perhaps if it’s accompanied with something creamy, like a sesame sauce, it would help balance out the dish.

MSSM also uses a sense of showmanship, presenting trays of the seafood that would form the ten pieces we were about to sample before slicing and preparing. Once ready, a bucket of rice is whisked out and periodically changed to ensure it’s at the optimal temperature. Indeed, the rice is nice and warm but could use more vinegar.

To start, the stripe bass (shima Suzuki), a clean and light tasting fish that is often used to warm up the palette. It’s immediately followed by salmon (zuke sake) that’s been marinated for a couple of hours in a “mother sauce” that gets cooked, added to, and reused… not unlike a sourdough starter. What a flavourful piece topped with a finely chopped green onion paste.

MSSM’s scallop (hotate) tastes clean especially when finished with drop of lime juice. I love that it’s not overly gummy so that you could chew the seafood and take in the scallop’s sweetness. A sprinkle of sea salt may bring out the flavours even more.

This is a long review, for the rest visit...

Located on the second floor of 154 Cumberland Street in Yorkville, MSSM offers an intimate and refined omakase experience at a price point of $98 per person. This establishment is the brainchild of Michelin-starred chef Masaki Saito, who envisioned MSSM as both a restaurant and a training ground for aspiring sushi chefs. Here, diners can witness the meticulous craftsmanship of chefs trained under Saito’s guidance, delivering a 14-course Edomae-style omakase that emphasizes both tradition and innovation.  

Upon entering MSSM, guests are greeted by a sleek, modern interior that blends urban aesthetics with traditional Japanese elements. The ambiance is lively yet intimate, with bar seating that allows diners to observe the chefs at work. The restaurant operates on a reservation-only basis, with bookings opening one week in advance. It’s worth noting that MSSM is a cashless establishment, so be prepared to pay by card. 

The 14-course menu is a curated journey through seasonal and high-quality ingredients. Standout dishes include the toro (bluefin tuna belly) nigiri, which melts in the mouth, and the torched sea bream appetizer that offers a delightful balance of flavors. The miso soup, infused with truffle and shiitake mushrooms, deviates from the traditional, presenting a richer, more complex profile. Desserts like the hojicha cheesecake or shiso sorbet provide a refreshing end to the meal. 

Service at MSSM is attentive and knowledgeable, with chefs engaging diners by explaining each course and the inspiration behind it. The staff ensures that plates are promptly cleared, and beverages are consistently refilled. The atmosphere is enhanced by a curated playlist, often featuring throwback R&B tunes, adding a modern twist to the dining experience.  

In summary, MSSM Yorkville offers a unique blend of traditional Japanese omakase with modern twists, all at an accessible price point. Whether you’re a sushi aficionado or new to the omakase experience, MSSM provides a memorable dining journey that showcases the artistry and passion behind each dish.  

If you need assistance with reservations or have further questions, feel...