Cookoovaya — Restaurant in Athens

A strange and underwhelming experience.

Our arrival at Cookoovaya at 9 p.m. on a Friday evening was promising. The space is well-designed and atmospheric, and the terrace and main dining room were buzzy. Staff were accommodating about moving from the open kitchen area to the main dining area (we were grateful we asked to move, as the open kitchen area became nearly empty by 10 pm).

We ordered the classic “tasting menu” and a good bottle of Assyrtiko. The tasting menu is more like a set menu of chef’s choice served in the sharing style, rather than a traditional tasting menu. Portions were very large. Overall, the tasting menu was underwhelming – in concept and in execution. The first course of two fish carpaccios was good but unremarkable. The second course was a coarsely cut bowl of relatively tasteless cherry tomatoes with some halloumi and carob crumbs, with proportion completely off between tomato and garnish. This was followed by some decent but also unoriginal slices of octopus with fava purée. After this was a whole grouper, which was served lukewarm and with a very dense texture. After this grilled skirt steak, itself good but a strange cut of meat in such a restaurant and overwhelmed by a massive puddle of mushroom cream. After this were very thin and bony lamb chops, which would pale in comparison to most tavernas. The dessert scored some points for originality, as a deconstructed tower of bougatsa (Greek cream pie) – however, like the other courses, texture and flavour weren’t very complex.

Service was equally strange: friendly at the beginning, but then very detached for the rest of the meal. We were given little to no context of dishes being served (“here is your beef,” “here is lamb,” etc.). Plates were left on the table for long periods of time all over the restaurant, including ours – the table hadn’t been cleared by the time we left the restaurant.

It was disappointing, as we really wanted to like Cookoovaya, but it fell short. We regret not heeding the advice of a local friend, who said the restaurant was so-so. Portions could be smaller – instead quality and originality should be prioritized. This place has lots of potential. I wish them well in improving the execution so the experience lives up to...

The Pros: • Elegant and Contemporary Ambiance: Cookoovaya offers a very elegant dining experience with its contemporary-style decor and completely open-view kitchen. Watching the chefs at work is highly entertaining and adds a unique touch to the meal. • Wide Choice of Dishes: The restaurant boasts an extensive à la carte menu, with the unique option to have fresh fish prepared in two different ways: first as a starter and then as a main course. • Excellent Service: The service throughout the meal was exceptional. Special thanks to Anastacia for her helpful guidance through the various menu options. • Great Cocktails: The cocktails were expertly prepared and added an extra level of enjoyment to the dining experience. • Interesting Logo: The logo on the plates features the number 270, symbolizing the degrees an owl (Athens' emblem and the sacred bird of the goddess Athena) can rotate its head, which is a charming and thoughtful detail. • Booking Availability: While the restaurant gets very busy at night, it accepts bookings in the late afternoon when it is still quiet, providing a more relaxed dining option. • Value for Money: Cookoovaya offers very good value for money, making it an excellent choice for those seeking high-quality dining at reasonable prices.

The Cons: • Entrance Navigation: The restaurant is located between two streets, and the address on Google Maps directs you to the back entrance. Be prepared to walk around the block to find the main entrance.

Overall Impression: Cookoovaya offers a refined dining experience with its elegant decor, open kitchen, and wide variety of expertly prepared dishes. The excellent service, particularly from staff like Anastacia, and the high-quality cocktails make for a memorable visit. With its good value for money, this restaurant is a must-visit for anyone looking to enjoy a sophisticated meal in Athens. Just be aware of the entrance location to avoid any...

This is a stylish, cozy setting and the cuisine features high-end versions of Greek modern classics - but only recommended for full-on meat-eaters. In fairness, we dined here on Christmas Eve and ordered the vegetarian menu so our experience may not be representative. However, given the vegetarian option (the only alternative to the standard menu, which featured foie gras and pork) had to be pre-ordered and was charged at the same price I would have expected it to be both better designed and better executed than it was. Two of the three savoury courses centered on mushrooms, and the main, a black truffle risotto, was undercooked and bland, and the truffle shavings were dry and tasteless. The "paired" wines were identical to the standard menu, so although nice were not the best match for our dishes. The rest of our party had the standard menu which on the whole seemed better considered and what I tried was excellent, so I concluded that the kitchen is good but somewhat limited in scope. Overall, if you are a customer I would suggest sticking to the mainstream options (and if you have non meat-eaters in your group consider going somewhere else). For the proprietors I would suggest putting a bit more thought and effort into pleasing diners with other dietary requirements if you are going to cater to them at all - if nothing else, it makes business sense, as they are a growing...