Tempura Tenko, Hakata — ⭐★☆☆☆ (1/5)
TL;DR: Chef’s persistently condescending, passive-aggressive and arrogant attitude—publicly arguing as though the customer was stupid (in this case, myself.) Technical execution at an apprenticeship level: excessively oily, scalding tempura that burns the tongue.
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Having dined at over ten Michelin-starred tempura restaurants across Japan (out of more than 100 starred restaurants globally in the past 2 years alone), I regretfully must report that Tempura Tenko falls woefully short of its former two-star reputation.
Excessive Oil & Scalding Temperature The aubergine (eggplant) tempura arrived drenched in oil and so piping hot it immediately scalded my tongue. My appetite vanished on that first, painful bite. Subsequent pieces—shiitake mushroom, anago eel—were still sizzling in vapour, signalling inadequate draining. This heavy, greasy presentation betrays the very essence of tempura’s light, delicate crispness.
Technical Shortcomings True tempura mastery lies in minimal residual oil and perfect serving temperature. Here, the batter clung to excess oil, and the temperature was far too high—more reminiscent of a casual chain than a Michelin-honoured atelier. As Chef Tetsuya Saotome of Mikawa Zezankyo observes, “Real skill is measured by how little oil remains on the batter.” Tempura Tenko sadly ignores this guiding principle.
Disrespectful & Condescending Attitude When I politely offered feedback, the chef spoke down to me—publicly challenging and arguing as if I were an imbecile, in full view of other diners. Such passive-aggressive behaviour is profoundly disrespectful and entirely unbecoming of any hospitality professional. A true master listens and learns from guests; instead, I encountered arrogance and a defensive posture unworthy of the Michelin name.
Entitlement Without Effort Inheriting a family’s Michelin pedigree does not guarantee excellence. Without continuous refinement, the legacy becomes hollow. Here, technique and attitude alike suggest an apprenticeship phase, not seasoned expertise.
A Fading Star Demoted from two stars to one, this restaurant’s current rating feels overly generous. Were inspectors to revisit Hakata, I fear Tempura Tenko might not even merit an inclusion in the guide at all.
Tempura Tenko delivers an apprenticeship-level experience—oil-soaked, scorchingly hot tempura paired with a chef’s arrogant and dismissive demeanour. For genuine tempura mastery, one must combine technical finesse with genuine respect for patrons. If you rate this Tempura restaurant highly, in an era of this young and inexperienced chef who only recently succeeded his father, you probably and unfortunately have not visited a true upscale Tempura...
Read moreNow helmed by third generation chef/ owner, Tenkou serves classic tempura items that are familiar but of a very high quality that comes shining through from first bite. Will definitely make this a regular spot having gone twice in the...
Read moreミシュラン二つ星の天冨良屋さん
最初から最後まで本当に細部まで心遣いが素晴らしいお料理でした 間違いなくおすすめの天冨良屋さんです
衣の厚みは素材ごとに調整されているようで素材の火通し具合、食した時の染み出した旨味との衣の調味がどれも絶妙でした
素材によって塩、天つゆ、カレー粉のどれを使うか大将から指定あり、その通りに食していきます…たしかに絶妙! 素材自体のエキスが多いものは塩、エキス控えめのものはつゆ、甘みやコクの強いお魚にはカレー粉(…なのかな?) 指定はもちろん的確!本当に最高の味わい食感を楽しめました^^
進行に合わせて出される付け合わせも素材と調味がとてもバランスが良い美味しいものでした こちらのお仕事から天冨良だけでなくお料理への繊細な気配りが見て取れます
天冨良後のお食事は天丼と天茶からの選択式 天茶を選択させていただきましたがお茶が良い意味で本当に控えめな風味でかき揚げの風味を最大限ひ引き出します 薬味の山葵を加えると風味や爽やかさが一変、お食事も大変食べごたえがあり堪能できました
コースで特に印象に残ったのが… 付き出しのマグロ:寝かし&生姜の風味…コクと爽やかさが絶妙! 筍の天冨良:歯切れよくジューシー、旨味の染みた衣が本当に旨い! キス:厚めの衣に染みた旨味&カレー粉が今までにない調味を生み出してました! 穴子:天つゆとカレー粉が大将の指定、天つゆはつゆと穴子のエキスの調味が絶妙!カレー粉はサクサク感ありつつの旨味スパイシーが感動ものです!
〆のデザートはなんとイチゴ! 芳醇な果肉の贅沢ないイチゴで天冨良料理の最後に申し分ないボリューム...
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