SUMI — Restaurant in Tokyo

SUMI is probably the second best restaurant I’ve eaten at in Japan (behind Sushi Jiro) and given how accessible it is, it might deserve to be the best.

Of course, the food is absolutely delicious. I reserved the omakase course with sake pairing and upgraded my main course from sirloin to filet wagyu, since I figured if I’m spoiling myself with an expensive meal I might as well go all out. There were a couple of dishes that used ingredients that I normally despise eating, but when prepared at SUMI they were still very tasty. While the omakase course was 11 dishes and I was very full at the end, each dish individually were generally light in flavor so eating all of that food did not feel terrible like some full course meals may end up being. Several dishes were made in SUMI’s own unique style and even one of the sake was a bottle that Janu bought the entire stock of from the brewery, so you could only drink it at Janu’s restaurants.

The staff were very friendly and most spoke very good English or at the very least understood English, so SUMI felt welcoming to me as a foreigner on vacation. Even the head chef would stop by in between courses to chat, but the waiter and the sommelier were especially great to talk with. Service was also very attentive like a fine dining restaurant, even if I just took one gulp of water they would refill my glass. But SUMI itself is not overly pretentious and I was able to eat even in a casual T-shirt and jeans.

I dined on a Wednesday night and there was just myself as a solo traveler and a young Japanese couple probably on a date. I felt kind of bad as I’m sure their date would’ve felt more special if they were the only ones there. I guess the one thing that could have changed was I was sat next to the couple when I arrived. Maybe it’s easier for the staff to wait on everyone when we’re together, or maybe they thought it would lead to a more social environment. But given the rest of the counter was empty maybe even just leaving a one seat gap between our two parties would’ve been better. Regardless, it did not take away from my own experience.

Lastly, I had originally booked my dinner for a 5:45 arrival, but about two months in advanced someone from SUMI contacted me letting me know they changed their hours to only have omakase dinings at 7pm. I was happy to change but they did offer to make an exception for my reservation, and when I did arrive they gave me something as a further apology/thanks for changing my initial reservation, even though it was so long ago. As I said, fine dining feels while also being very accessible.

Final note is that SUMI is not located within Janu itself, but it’s in the same building. You have to go outside the reception area and take a different elevator up to the restaurant, but it’s right next door. Staff was also nice enough to escort me back to the hotel using a shortcut that required their keycard to access.

If you are looking to splurge on food in Tokyo, SUMI should be at the top...

Dining at Sumi in Janu Tokyo was one of the most special experiences of my trip. I discovered the restaurant completely by chance while sitting in a tiny Golden Gai wine bar that only serves Japanese bottles. I struck up a conversation with another guest who turned out to be Hiro, the sommelier at Sumi. Not only did he help us secure a last minute reservation, he also checked in when we were running slightly late, a generous gesture given the precision of omakase timing.

The meal opened with a glass of sparkling sake made using the méthode traditionnelle, paired with uni in its shell layered over broad bean mousse, seawater jelly, radish and caviar. The seawater is freshly harvested each day. Hiro shared the brewer’s story, over 200 attempts to perfect this sake, and I found myself repeating "saikō" after every sip and bite. Eventually I had to learn a new phrase, "don don yoku nattemasu" — it just keeps getting better.

The sashimi course that followed was paired with a New Zealand Pinot Noir, which was unexpected but perfectly judged. Then came a standout — Japanese spiny lobster, brought to the table whole before being grilled over charcoal and served with courgette, shiso and a luxurious sauce. The viognier pairing had a bright green lift that echoed the shiso and cut through the richness.

Soba noodles, hand cut daily by Chef Hisaki Otsuka, came next, served in a deeply flavourful seafood bisque with sakura shrimp and scallion. Then a light tempura course, followed by grilled tilefish and spring vegetables.

The conger eel rice in Yanagawa style with miso soup and pickles was pure comfort, a dish I would happily eat again and again. We finished with matcha warabi mochi, sake lees ice cream and strawberries. Elegant, gentle and beautifully balanced.

After dinner, Hiro gave us a spontaneous tour of the other restaurants in the hotel, an act of hospitality that made the whole evening feel almost cinematic. We ended the night with incredible cocktails at the Janu bar, gazing out at Tokyo Tower.

The food, service and care at Sumi were extraordinary. Each course built on the last, and the warmth of the team made it all feel effortless. Thank you to Chef Otsuka, Hiro and everyone at Sumi....

Azabudai Hills feels like the beginning of a dream, a place where ambition and elegance meet, and where the journey to the top of the proverbial Mori Tower begins. At the foot of this vision, nestled beside the lush courtyard of the opulent JANU Tokyo, you’ll find SUMI a brilliant newcomer to Tokyo’s fine dining scene, helmed by culinary master Hisateru Otsuka-sama.

SUMI is not merely a restaurant. It’s a study in precision — a beautifully elegant expression of traditional Japanese flavors, prepared and presented at their absolute finest. Every dish carries a deep respect for seasonality, craft, and heritage, elevated with a quiet confidence that doesn’t shout but instead invites.

We were especially impressed by how effortlessly the team catered to my pregnant wife’s dietary needs. Without fuss or compromise, they adjusted each course with care and integrity, maintaining the full depth and artistry of the meal while ensuring her comfort and wellbeing. It was a rare and genuine display of hospitality.

What truly set the experience apart for me was the meticulous attention to local detail from the delicate Kiruma glassware to ingredients thoughtfully sourced from the Gifu and Nagano regions, each element felt purposeful and deeply connected to Japan’s regional richness.

We were graciously hosted by Hiro-san, whose knowledge of world-class wines and instinct for impeccable service added an international polish to a thoroughly Japanese experience. Friendly, poised, and entirely at ease, he guided the evening like a seasoned maestro.

If you’re seeking a place where Japanese culinary tradition meets modern sophistication where every bite brings you closer to the top of that tower — SUMI is not...