Dewakan Restaurant — Restaurant in Kuala Lumpur

Having just concluded this exceptional meal, I am left with a profound appreciation for the culinary journey through Malaysia’s diverse landscape. The evening began with a warm cup of crab-based broth, likely made from small blue crabs, a humble yet deeply nourishing starter. The belinjau and caviar that followed were a sophisticated bridge between the rustic and the regal. Belinjau, made from the bitter nuts of the Melinjo tree, is a traditional Malaysian snack often enjoyed as crispy chips. Paired with the luxurious burst of caviar, it created a unique combination of local tradition and opulence. The Tatus Hitam crayfish with bamboo shoot transported me to the heart of the Malaysian rainforest. Though the crayfish was a bit chewy, the sweet, succulent flesh paired with the fresh crunch of bamboo shoot celebrated the jungle’s abundance. Venison, a meat that harks back to the hunting traditions of Malaysia’s indigenous peoples, was rich and gamey, a nod to the country’s ancient past. The standout dish of the evening was undoubtedly the smoked patin. The fish, with its deep, smoky flavor, brought the essence of riverine life into the dining room. The sauce that accompanied it was nothing short of a revelation, confirming the chef’s prowess and mastery over complex flavors. The pigeon presented another layer of complexity. While the intensity of the pigeon was at times overwhelming, eating its brain was divine, offering a delicate, rich flavor that balanced the stronger notes of the meat. Eggs with Kelulut honey introduced a touch of sweetness, showcasing the ingenuity of utilizing stingless bee honey. Eggplant and Keladi Telur yam offered a comforting, starchy respite. Fermented rice and toddy provided a refreshing interlude, their slightly tangy and alcoholic notes a tribute to refined fermentation techniques. The meal concluded on a sweet note with banana leaf ice cream, stacks of chocolate, and Kuih Sarang Semut. These desserts were a testament to Malaysia’s evolving culinary story.

The wine pairing throughout the meal connected Malaysian cuisine to a global story. Each wine was thoughtfully selected to enhance the flavors. For instance, the Beaujolais Villages brought a light, fruity note that complemented the venison’s richness, while the Rosé from Fire Gully added a crisp, refreshing contrast to the earthy flavors of the eggplant and yam. A Riesling provided a sweet balance to the tangy fermented rice and toddy, while the Chianti Classico’s robust body paired perfectly with the hearty pigeon. The final touch of sherry, Solera 1847, with its deep, complex sweetness, beautifully complemented the banana leaf ice cream and Kuih Sarang Semut. A view of the Petronas Towers right in front of our table took the experience to a whole new level, making the evening even more memorable. However, the overall experience was slightly marred by a few issues. While the staff was generally attentive, there were lapses in detail such as drips on the plate, dirty napkins, and a lack of dress code enforcement, with diners in shorts and sneakers bringing down the experience. After a trip to the bathroom, our dirty napkins were folded instead of replaced, which was a surprising oversight in an otherwise meticulously crafted evening. I must confess that I probably forgot which wines went with each specific dish, being so caught up in the narrative woven by the meal. Each dish was a chapter, each flavor a sentence, weaving together a narrative that honored tradition while embracing modernity. The smoked patin, in particular, stood out as a highlight, showcasing the chef’s exceptional talent and deep understanding of the ingredients and techniques that define Malaysian cuisine. The expertly paired wines enhanced this experience, linking the local flavors to a broader global...

This is going to be a long one. And for those who finish reading this review, I sincerely thank you for your patience.

First of all, this review is solely based on my own experience and opinion. To pay for a price of nearly RM900 per pax for this dining experience is certainly not worth it. Let alone a Michelin 2-star restaurant.

After carefully reading some of the top reviews from certain patrons, they are all about the “experience”. I gotta agree, Dewakan offers a variety of flavours. Flavours that I have never tasted in my life and it certainly opens up my palette. But, what is dining all about really? IMO, it’s about the enjoyment of eating food that is flavourful, delicious and cooked to perfection.

At Dewakan, every single dish is packed with bursting flavours. Yes, way too many locally sourced spices and ingredients that ones have not come across in our daily consumption. It is good that restaurants source certain spices or ingredients locally. But to put every single spice and ingredient into one dish? It is so over powering that I don’t even taste what was the actual dish. They are playing too many tricks with the spices and ingredients into every single dish in which they have neglected the true taste of the dish. For example, our main course was changed from beef to fish (my family doesn’t eat beef), they pack so many things into the fish, using this sauce, that nuts, this spice, that fruit. But what about the fish?? It’s so over cooked. We don’t taste the freshness of the fish anymore! All we taste is different kind of spices. I would say, every single dish that we have tasted, it’s only all about the locally sourced spices. It was certainly not enjoyable at all for a decent meal. We don’t just pay RM900 for the “experience”. We are not here to experiment ourselves with the knowledge of newly found ingredients from the native land. We are here to experience a decent dining meal where it is enjoyable among the group and we can talk about it even after we left the restaurant. And please remember that it’s a restaurant, not a laboratory of spices.

Moreover, one of the rice dish that we had, we encountered a piece of small stone in the rice. Should this be happening considering this is a Michelin 2-star? And another stone crab dish, the crab meat was not picked properly and shells were in it. I mean really? Some patrons commented on how good the service was. Mine was a let down. I have encountered few times whereby my glass was empty and water was not refilled. Yes, I CAN stand up, walk over to grab the water and pour it myself. But if that’s the case, why would we comment that the service was good since we have to do everything by ourselves? We did pay for the whole experience (please be reminded again that this is a fine dine restaurant awarded 2 Michelin stars).

And when it comes to desserts, definitely another let down. I mean… desserts are a hard to miss thing and yet, they missed it. If you serve an ice cream or chocolate tart, serve us ICE CREAM and CHOCOLATE TART. Not “ice cream” and “chocolate” tart. A dairy-free “ice cream” tasted like moose, a “chocolate” tart tasted like some salty tart shell filled with some local spice (again… eyes rolling) with salted rose petals. Why does EVERY desserts taste salty???

If you asked me, it WAS an experience but never to return. The price you pay does not justice the results at the end of my dining experience. It was not enjoyable even for a meal. I would prefer if the chef and team could focus more on the true taste of their main dish like freshness of the seafood and meat. Locally sourced spices are a good choice but do not overpower each dish with it and neglecting the true taste of...

Expect the "unexpected"

I was thrilled when I learned about the only two-Michelin star restaurant, Dewakan, in Kuala Lumpur! Finally, a name in the gastronomy scene in Asia, so I decided to book a table of four towards the end of February since I have a couple of friends visiting from overseas and thought it would be an excellent idea to showcase the refined dining experience in Malaysia.

A message arrived three days before the appointment and left me with some concerns. A sudden text message at 11:30 pm explaining the inflation and increment of ingredient prices was inappropriate considering its recognition.

Still, I went with my heart open and was very excited about what would come. The design of the space was sleek. We were greeted by a beautifully designed open kitchen with a team of twenty-something staff. It is very promising, as it is seen. We sat in the private room with a stunning view of Petronas Tower; I thought, what a sight. The music background in the room was a little loud, so we requested the staff to lower it, which they did immediately. We were also given a tour of the kitchen, hosted by their CDP, Farhan, a friendly and knowledgeable representative who gave us some context of the Dewakan and some of the rare ingredients and finds we will soon sample in our food. Farhan mentioned "expect the unexpected," which raised the bar high, which I thought was a brave attempt.

Only one menu and a couple of beverage options were available. We went for the four-drink package, priced at RM 202, consisting of a juice, two wine pairings, and a tea.

There were twelve dishes in the total experience. I managed to enjoy only one or two dishes. The taste was so strong in the first few dishes, and it would have worked better in the later arrangements. The crab soup had a funny taste of the crab shell, which left a strong impression on me. The second dish, with the beautifully folded frog in origami style with the caviar, perhaps the belinjau ( assuming that was the ingredient used in the origami frog) choice, needs further consideration as pieces were left in between teeth, and it was an unpleasant experience. I only had a bite of the smoked patin as it so muddily tasted. I reflected on my feedback to one of their staff members, and no follow-up was made.

Towards the end of the evening, all topics go to how funny the dishes were, how they could be better... A friend was quickly surprised to learn this was the level of quality with such a big title on their belt.

One important point which I wish to raise is our drinks package, which I assumed lasts for the entire dining experience ended so quickly as the staff was pouring the drinks so fast even before the dish actually arrived at your seat, I find it very unpleasant and also reflected to their staff and again no comments were given. More importantly, we were given a private room, but so many staff came to the private room using the bar for drinks pouring for other guests outside in the main hall; it wasn't private at all.

Michelin star or not, the dish has to win. It ought to be tasty and enjoyable. I couldn't experience this, although one staff member mentioned you either hated it or loved it; it was almost like a warning before the experience. A local friend mentioned that Dewakan was later invested by a large corporation that owns the licensing for the Michelin guide in Malaysia; any...