Fama d'Alfama — Restaurant in Lisbon

On my first night in Lisbon, after visiting the Museu de Fado in the old Alfama neighborhood considered the birthplace of fado, I was itching to experience this uniquely Portuguese musical tradition performed live. I did what any sensible person who didn’t have time to do my research beforehand would do and go straight to Trip Advisor, where I had the good fortune of discovering Fama d’Alfama, a relatively new restaurant (started in 2017) that prides itself on providing an authentic fado experience. Their website was helpful and encouraging, with enough description so that a fado newbie would know what to expect without being condescending. Plus, it was easy to click on the link to a different site called Fork that allowed me to make a reservation for that evening! (This might have been impossible to do with a larger group but one of the benefits of travelling solo is that you can act spontaneously). When I arrived, the hostess greeted me graciously and showed me to my seat, which was very close to the stage and other diners (COVID-era social distancing would NOT have worked in here) and kindly let me charge my phone in an outlet next to the stage as long as I promised to silence the ringer. I could tell from the classic muted décor, soft ambient lighting, and elegant table settings this was a classy joint, not a dive. Within minutes, my charming server appeared with the menu and offered me a choice of sparkling or still water, then the couvert arrived (Portuguese appetizer course), consisting of bread, butter, olives, and a house-made hummus that was to die for. I ordered the white house wine and the most traditional dish on the menu – bacalhau (salt cod known as the “faithful friend”) which was served roasted with smashed fingerling potatoes. Although it was drenched in far more olive oil than I thought necessary or desirable, I ate every bit of it because it was so tasty and I was ravenous from my long day of travel and sightseeing. (*Note: I later learned that it is not considered rude for you to ask the chef to prepare your bacalhau with less olive oil than the standard. There will always be an opportunity to add more if needed; more casual restaurants will have a bottle on your table at the ready). If that wasn’t enough, I finished it all of with chocolate mousse and the red house wine. Expect to pay a little more than you would at most traditional Portuguese restaurants in Alfama (you’re charged for the water and the couvert and the entrée and dessert weren’t cheap) but when you factor in that you don’t have to pay a cover charge for the show, it’s worth every penny. If you’ve never been to a fado performance, be forewarned that this a sacrosanct art form that people take very seriously; it is NOT “background music” for dinner conversation. The stage is THE focal point of the room and guests are expected to listen attentively to every note. The music is mysterious, melancholic, and intensely emotional. What surprised me most is that after the hostess introduced the musical guests and they played their first set, she got up and sang beautifully during the second set. Turns out she was none other than renowned fadista Joana Amendoeira, who is also artistic director of Fama d’Alfama! As she was singing, I noticed a group of young ladies enter the room who appeared to be silently mouthing the lyrics to the songs. During the third set, one by one, they got up on stage and sang too, along with a charismatic gentleman who had evidently been singing fado for many years. I was impressed that the guitar players seemed to know all of the songs and appeared to accompany the wide variety of performers seamlessly. Most of all, I was delighted to witness the younger generation passionately keeping the fado torch burning brightly and the joyful pride on their predecessors’ faces as they bore witness to the continuation of a fascinating musical tradition that haunted me long after the last sad note on the guitar had...

We made reservations at Fama d'Alfama because we wanted to listen to a little bit of Fado. A trusted local indicated that there are a few things to consider when listening to Fado: 1) do it at a local restaurant, 2) eat and drink while listening, and 3) do it at night. This will give you a more aesthetic experience.

The restaurant is centrally located in Alfama and it is easily accessed, so we selected it from many others with shows that started later at night. Fado was to start at 830PM, so we reserved a table for 8PM to give time to settle. Fado did not actually start until 915PM. You are seated at a preselected table reserved just for you. They write your name on the table. We requested a table near the musicians but we were assigned a further table instead. That's okay as the place is small enough to experience the music. Had I complained about the seating, I don't think they could have offered a table already reserved for another. So take it or leave it, it seems. The dinner service was quick and prompt, we were done eating by 9PM. We could have stayed longer had the music began on time, but several issues impacted our decision.

First, although the Fadistas were setup near all tables, which makes for great listening, there were too many tables that were too close in proximity to each other. In a 15'x15' space, which is the area where we sat, the tables sat about 15 guests. That offers about 1 square meter per guest of dining and moving space. The restaurant is actually, at least, four times larger but equally crowded. The tables are tight, so the conversational noise level is high. Once the music gets going, good luck moving past the other diners quietly and without them having to get up. All walking spaces become inaccessible once the show begins. For us, the crowding made for increased discomfort, so we left after the first tune. The Fado is beautiful, so plan accordingly.

The service staff was great, and they were kind. They spoke Spanish and English as well. They greeted and served us well. Unfortunately, some of the food was incredibly salted. The tuna fillet was overly salted, so it was inedible. The Caldo Verde was fine but too much spinach for my personal liking. The Octopus Tempura was great and cooked to perfection. The sweet potato fries were quite tasty. Their lemonade is good with a hint of mint. You may need to add 2 sugars to cut the bitterness. The ice tea was crisp, freshly brewed, and garnished with a cinnamon stick and mint leaves. The port was excellent as all Portuguese port is. All dishes were beautifully presented. The limited table space made for some crowding but the service staff ensures that plate clearing takes place promptly.

When we went to pay the bill, we were told we had to pay cash as their machine was not working. That was unexpected of a place with huge costs. All of my disposable cash was used to pay for the meal. Luckily, our living stay was near. I would visit again with the awareness that perhaps a later dinner time might...

Amazing experience! I would recommend to reserve a table and definitely be there by 20:00. Details below.

Food: Really tasty selection. We had cod fish fritters as a starter. Iberian pork and cod fish as main course. It was delicious! The desserts looked very good as well.

Unfortunately as always the rip-off starter they place on the table as a "welcome". In this case it is olives, oil and Hummus with bread for 9,50€. At least in this restaurant it might be worth it.

Service: The waiters are really fast and were always there when needed. The only downside is, that nothing is served while the music is playing. Make sure to order enough before or in the breaks.

Interior: Nice and clean. Comfortable, not too fancy. You can see the musicians from every table. BUT: there is only one restroom. This gets particularly crowded, when 10 people try to use it in a 15 min music break.

Music: Astonishing selection of musicians. We were lucky to see Joana Amendoeira and another very talented singer accompanied by Portuguese guitar. We had a fantastic evening of Fado with a really immersive experience. BUT, be advised: The owner and most of the audience demand strict silence during music sessions. So you will have to eat relatively quiet, if you order to late.

Overall, I would definitely recommend a visit, if you want to...